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Discussion Starter #1
hello bikers in USA having a problem with my 1996 500s bike travels 3miles temp gauge up to normal travel 6 miles 60-70 mph ok next 2 miles open her up 90-100 mph temp gauge moves to end of white 1/4 before red sector starts ride last mile home steady 40-50 mph gauge stays at end of white meanwhile radiator overflow fills the top up bottle seems like it could be an air lock had thermostat out in pan of water on stove full movement cooling fan cuts in ok any thoughts lads
many thanks ferret
 

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fill it from the radiator cap and bottle.

Let it idle for awhile levelled (I.E. not on the side stand)

It's definitely air in the system

Same happened to me last year when I changed the cooling fluid.. ;)
 

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Slugger got another one , but the source of the air is a warped head this allows high pressure gas from combustion into the cooling system forcing coolant past the 13 PSI rad cap into the overflow bottle then over the side.

You must ,not maybe, but must lapp the head and cylinders flat to fix it.

FOG
 

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It's good to have you back here sir :)
 

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FOG said:
Slugger got another one , but the source of the air is a warped head this allows high pressure gas from combustion into the cooling system forcing coolant past the 13 PSI rad cap into the overflow bottle then over the side.

You must ,not maybe, but must lapp the head and cylinders flat to fix it.

FOG
food pellet? woof. lol!

lapping the engine isn't hard, just time consuming as it requires you to remove the engine and do figure 8s on a flat benchtop over some lapping compound with the deck and head. the copper head gasket can be reused so don't bother getting a new one. just spray-paint the old one front and back and let dry before you reinstall it.
 

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Whoa, subtract one food pellet. You don't need to remove the engine, just the head ans cylinders the rest can be left in the frame
If you want to do this I have a complete discription including pictures I can send you.

FOG
 

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FOG said:
Whoa, subtract one food pellet. You don't need to remove the engine, just the head ans cylinders the rest can be left in the frame
If you want to do this I have a complete discription including pictures I can send you.

FOG
OH YEAH.... I forgot those come off the base... god damn it!
 

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Is there any chance that retorqueing the head bolts might fix it?

That used to be recommended for a lot of car engines... depending on the type of gasket used.

???
 

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MrSciTrek said:
Is there any chance that retorqueing the head bolts might fix it?

That used to be recommended for a lot of car engines... depending on the type of gasket used.

???
Nope there is nothing to compress and the gas tracts are tiny only enough to pass High pressure gas. after combustion.

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #12
fog could you email the pictures and info or post it on this iam sure loads of other bikers will want some of your wisdom
many thanks
ferret
 

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MrSciTrek said:
Is there any chance that retorqueing the head bolts might fix it?

That used to be recommended for a lot of car engines... depending on the type of gasket used.

???
More than likely that would make it worse. The EX uses a tin gasket and the only compression available with it is the paint on it. Alot of older autos used a composite gasket that had some compression.
 

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There's a complete Blow By Blow on fixing the head with pictures alredy up in the FYI section. Read it then ask questions. save me a lot of typing

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #15
taken head off tonight it looks like thats been my trouble head and block have marks on them will take them off is it worth adhearing wet and dry paper to a sheet of glass to speed up the removal of metal on head and block then use valve grinding paste to finish off seem to have an awful lot of bits i hope it all goes back together with not too many left! keep you posted
many thanks ferret england
 

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No No No please follow my directions without alterations. The requirement is flatness not just cleaning off the dirt. you must lapp the head and cylinders with free abrasive on a flat surface. You can send them to me I'll do it for you.

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #17
when lapping the head and block with grinding paste do i use a little bit of water or do i do it dry
many thanks for all of your advice
ferret
 

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You can use a nice flood of Kerosene at first it will feel very gritty and make a lot of noise then as the grit breaks down it'll get smoother. if it gets too dry add more kero. Stop after a few minutes and wash it off. You'll see the high spots will clean first and the holes will be aperant. reapply another dab of compound and more kero. Repeat this till all the surface has a nice almost white aperance, Try not to stop till the compound breaks down to a nice smoothe swishing sound.

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #20
head flatening went well now putting it back together block and head back on problem now is camshaft/timing when i line up right hand piston at tdc iam having dificulty getting cams to stay in sync when i put camshaft caps back on is ther a trick to this like moving timing forward or back any thoughts lads
many thanks ferret
 
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