it seems to be, I have no experience of it though our bikes (UK) do not have the PAIR system fitted.Been seeing a few videos of people using a kit to delete the PAIR on the EX500. Is this kit worth it?
yes it seems to be a popular modification on bikes that have it. kits available from a member on here @toddlamp (look in the for sale section).Anybody put it on their bike?
no not really, the pair system was a failed attempt at emission control (similar to an EGR valve on a car) but it can introduce things like vacuum leaks, and stuck transfer valves, removing it gets rid of the pipework on top of the engine.does the kit have any performance/sound change?
Been seeing a few videos of people using a kit to delete the PAIR on the EX500. Is this kit worth it? Anybody put it on their bike? Finally based on previous two questions, does the kit have any performance/sound change?
For one, I've found the PAIR system pretty reliable. The valve itself is pretty simple and Kawasaki used decent hoses. Any problems would come from incorrect reinstallation.hi, coming from a country that never had the PAIR system fitted to our models, I find the premise that more issues would be caused by removing it than leaving it alone kind of illogical.
some of our later bikes (after EU directive EURO 3) did have it (or similar systems) fitted and the issues arising are more widespread than previous models that didn't have it.
I myself have had issues on several cars (EURO 3 and later) caused by faulty EGR valves, the PAIR system is just a simplified EGR valve, ok so if you live in a region that monitors Emissions and the PAIR systems helps, by all means leave it alone, otherwise there is no reason to keep it on.
just my 2cents worth.
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So I did the pair delete but I still get the ol backfiring during decel. But I replaced heads back and have an exhaust leak I just found at one of the heads...could that be what causes it or is that hundred percent way off possibility?I have an ON/OFF petcock, I ditched that vacuum operated one years ago and thousands of miles. I simply plugged the nipple and off I went. Other one goes to the diaphram set up, agreed about creating problems and investing time and money for a non-issue. My VFRs were free to do, plugs, welding and grinding a plate equals done.
PAIR delete isn't a be all and end all for exhaust popping. The exhaust leak could cause it, or the carbs could need tuning, it's also possible the valves are out of adjustment. Fix the leak before tuning the carbs though.So I did the pair delete but I still get the ol backfiring during decel. But I replaced heads back and have an exhaust leak I just found at one of the heads...could that be what causes it or is that hundred percent way off possibility?
Would you say you've replaced more PAIR valves or spark plugs in your 100k+ mile EX?I still have the PAIR system on my EX.
And proud of it
If someone is using Kawasaki parts then I'm sure it'd be just as reliable, some don't have the tools or knowledge to fit things as Kawasaki would. Plus money still.yeah, well everyone has an opinion and entitled to have it. but just to clear up a couple of points, yes the PAIR is pretty reliable the crucial word is "pretty" spark plugs are pretty reliable but can fail, if it's not there it cannot fail.
agreed if you remove it, it cost money for plates and a cover for the vacuum take off point (btw these cost pennies) and Kawasaki kindly supply these for bikes without the PAIR system. I have two on my bikes because I no longer have a vacuum petcock, but the ports are handy for balancing the carbs.
airbox plug is not required a square of Gorilla tape does it permanently (quick note) what is the first mod suggested to new owners yes the fog mod that requires drilling a 1in hole in same said air box.
vacuum and exhaust leaks are more likely with the PAIR than without it.
and finally compering ladders to stairs is the wrong analogy a better one would be stairs and an escalator they do the exactly the same job only one requires far more maintenance, and should it break down it's still a set of stairs.
I actually already had our man DUC (custom carb services) completely rebuild the carbs so only thing I really need to do is mess with the idle. So I would think that my bad attempt at seating that exhaust gasket between header and engine is making the majority of it. But I will say I need to get the valves check done too. I should have already done it but i found out about even needing to do it so late in the off season that I didn't want to risk a ton of ride time. But thank ya and I will certainly attempt both fixes soon.PAIR delete isn't a be all and end all for exhaust popping. The exhaust leak could cause it, or the carbs could need tuning, it's also possible the valves are out of adjustment. Fix the leak before tuning the carbs though.
yeah I could talk about this all day, but it's neither the place or time, besides for most readers it would go right over their heads.I could get into the nitty gritty, but everything I would say can easily be found on Wikipedia.
Spark plugs. 😄Would you say you've replaced more PAIR valves or spark plugs in your 100k+ mile EX?
um. Sure fix that but Just an added thought: the pair delete is maybe the wrong attack per decel popping...what could maybe fix it is open your idle jets...brings to mind Honda solution of late 80's- a special valve circuit activated by intake manifold vacuum (when throttle closed) that by-passed the anti-pollution lean idle mix...see? again more little hoses and things in the way and for that, again, the internet solution offered was merely plug the holes, remove the hoses and OPEN the idlemix. (ah-sorta worked, sorta satisfactory won't say more)So I did the pair delete but I still get the ol backfiring during decel. But I replaced heads back and have an exhaust leak I just found at one of the heads...could that be what causes it or is that hundred percent way off possibility?
I'm not horribly worried about it but i wouldn't hate it to go away either. I have my idle set for right at 1200 when shes warmed up. One thing i notice i still have to do though and I thought the carb refurb would have fixed was when I crank it over i have to have choke all the way on...and then even having it all the way on it will start and then idle down and shut down....no matter how warm it is out...its almost impossible for it to just start the bike and let it idle to warm up a little before leaving.um. Sure fix that but Just an added thought: the pair delete is maybe the wrong attack per decel popping...what could maybe fix it is open your idle jets...brings to mind Honda solution of late 80's- a special valve circuit activated by intake manifold vacuum (when throttle closed) that by-passed the anti-pollution lean idle mix...see? again more little hoses and things in the way and for that, again, the internet solution offered was merely plug the holes, remove the hoses and OPEN the idlemix. (ah-sorta worked, sorta satisfactory won't say more)
But it might help for you. Open the idle mix and the engine will get more gas when the throttles are glosed and alleviate the popping...
