Something worth checking is to see if the intake boots (to the engine) are facing the correct way and are in good condition. At some point before I got to my bike somebody managed to put one boot on backwards. It took a bit to track that one down for me.I'm not horribly worried about it but i wouldn't hate it to go away either. I have my idle set for right at 1200 when shes warmed up. One thing i notice i still have to do though and I thought the carb refurb would have fixed was when I crank it over i have to have choke all the way on...and then even having it all the way on it will start and then idle down and shut down....no matter how warm it is out...its almost impossible for it to just start the bike and let it idle to warm up a little before leaving.
Well! That's not right! per Aniewick's thoughts, maybe the petcock vacuum is a little funky as a consequence ..per those intake boots or something else because a mention of "not starting" and popping too is inclining to a lean-ness problem?I'm not horribly worried about it but i wouldn't hate it to go away either. I have my idle set for right at 1200 when shes warmed up. One thing i notice i still have to do though and I thought the carb refurb would have fixed was when I crank it over i have to have choke all the way on...and then even having it all the way on it will start and then idle down and shut down....no matter how warm it is out...its almost impossible for it to just start the bike and let it idle to warm up a little before leaving.
My bike, you can start without choke, key on, hit starter button, and give it a little throttle. Won't die, give it some gentle revs and I take off. If I don't ride the bike in a week or more, I thumb choke all the way on, key on, no throttle and fires up instantly into high idle, 3 seconds and I thumb it off. More finiky is when the clutch plates stick and you go to snick into gear and it dies. I usually before I start the routine, if it was laid over for a bit, I snick bike into first and rock it with clutch in to break it free. Also sometimes you may get a starter sprag noise, but this is inconsistent. PeaceI'm not horribly worried about it but i wouldn't hate it to go away either. I have my idle set for right at 1200 when shes warmed up. One thing i notice i still have to do though and I thought the carb refurb would have fixed was when I crank it over i have to have choke all the way on...and then even having it all the way on it will start and then idle down and shut down....no matter how warm it is out...its almost impossible for it to just start the bike and let it idle to warm up a little before leaving.
So I'm still pretty novice but to make sure I understand. Your thinking im getting air leaking in where it shouldn't which is causing these concerns? Someone the other day has mentioned as I was leaving the shop that they thought my bike seemed like its running either lean or rich. I'll have to ask him again. He also mentioned that it seemed like one side of my exhaust was getting hotter than the other.Something worth checking is to see if the intake boots (to the engine) are facing the correct way and are in good condition. At some point before I got to my bike somebody managed to put one boot on backwards. It took a bit to track that one down for me.
Also to check for vaccum leaks grab a spray bottle of water and when the engine is running spray at every possible place where there could be a leak. If the engine sucks in water it'll bog down.
I'm not a carburetor wizard, there are some that have tuned their nose, ears, brains, and hands to master carbs. It's not magic, but it is fluid dynamics and physics which is close.So I'm still pretty novice but to make sure I understand. Your thinking im getting air leaking in where it shouldn't which is causing these concerns? Someone the other day has mentioned as I was leaving the shop that they thought my bike seemed like its running either lean or rich. I'll have to ask him again. He also mentioned that it seemed like one side of my exhaust was getting hotter than the other.
So the carb i fully trust duc has everything on point so I dont want to mess with that unless it's last resort. The air filter is freshly cleaned and recharged and air box and the rubbers were all cleaned up from air box to carb carb to engine. I do have one of my exhaust gaskets leaking which ive been told could be the cause of some the running issue due to not enough back pressure. Not sure if that is legit or not. But I just need to go ahead and order the gaskets that i clearly installed as an utter failer. Brand new Delkivic heads back so completely my bad on that. One other thing i need to really check is some of my electrical when it comes to my COPS system. I'm wondering if both are working when they should because there is certainly an electrical gremlin in this bike of mine.I'm not a carburetor wizard, there are some that have tuned their nose, ears, brains, and hands to master carbs. It's not magic, but it is fluid dynamics and physics which is close.
Running lean means too much air or too little gas.
Running rich means too much fuel or too little air.
There are a lot of different conditions that can cause either one. Carburetors are very finicky about how much air and fuel they want.
Fuel has one way to the carbs. Through the floats. Floats are basically the on/off valve for fuel in the carbs, the floats have to float on the fuel at a specific point, otherwise there will be too much or too little fuel. You mentioned duc rebuilt your carbs, they should have set the floats at the recommended level, however checking the float height can't hurt.
The other option is air. Air should only go through the airbox through the carbs. Since the intake operates as a vaccum by design it's relatively easy for air to get sucked in through any openings it can. Another thing to consider is blockages. A dirty air filter or a mouse house in the airbox could give you a rich condition through providing less air then the carbs want.
If one cylinder is running hot it's likely that cylinder is running lean (too much air), if one cylinder is cold it's likely that one is running rich(too much fuel). This isn't a law or anything, just a rule of thumb.
