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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I'm having a strange running issue on this '95 bike I'm in the process of reviving (previous front-end accident damaged bike).
It was ok at first, but started running as if oil was being introduced into the combustion chamber, and smoking.
This happened right when I modified/eliminated the PAIR system! It seems block-off plates for the valve cover ports/tubes are no longer available?.. I pinched the 2 steel tubes coming off the valve cover shut and welded them closed! I plugged the holes in the plastic air box, I thought all was good..

But yeah bike was running and I heard an audible change when something happened, like something about the intake just got dampened and then smoke soon started coming from exhaust / worsened the longer it ran.. as it was having trouble staying running even with throttle.. died.

I could start bike after, still always the same situation and smoke coming quickly.

I just pulled the plugs to do a compression check of the motor. They were wet

Confusing to me because the running issue came at the same time right after I modified the PAIR system, however the bike hasn't even idled much at all yet (in years and years probably).. but it had seemed to run perfect at first I had already made the label "this is a good engine since accident"

Welding those 2 valve cover tubes shut would be the same as just linking the 2 tubes, right? I thought I had a sticky float possibly and had drained gas into oil overfilling the oil. Nope, that's all good, and it just got 2 fresh oil changes in a row! Just had new mufflers welded on also (I've heard them just a bit they sound good).
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
OK, SO.. compression check has revealed not-so-pleasant news. While left side cylinder seems great jumped right up to around 140psi, my right side has issue. Pressure on gauge more slowly building in pulses, only going to about 60psi but with some more cranking it got up to 90psi.

My question is, with it verified running smoother at first and then something audibly happening and it then running more poorly and smoking begun.. what could have possibly happened? Not familiar with these engines, but valve stem seal / valve sticking issue possible? Seems so strange to me. I might need to remove cylinder head to inspect further? or I might need an engine

edit: I put the plugs back in, started it up AND THE MOTOR IS KNOCKING NOW BADLY!? Yeah near the right side more possibly, and maybe a valve/cam type of knocking I think probably not rod knock, but.. what could have happened?
 

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some clarity Please, What steel tubes from the valve cover? There is no such thing

To disable the Pair system all you need do is plug the holes for the two dowels no welding needed.

all the rest can be discarded. a simple piece of Duct tape over the hole in the airbox.

The other stuff not related but serious did you do a wet oil Comp test? this is how you determine the cause of the comp failure


FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The two (reed valves?) on the valve cover, with steel 1/2" or so lines coming out of them.. going to that emissions/PAIR system. Lamp One Designs doesn't seem to be active selling his block-off plates now. The tubes are steel coming out of the aluminum alloy plates bolted to top of valve cover with 8mm bolts, I crushed those steel tubes shut and welded them!

I know doing a leak-down test can better determine compression issues. I'm just not familiar with this engine, thought someone might know what has happened..

My problem is much worse now though, ever since I removed spark plugs, checked comp then reinstalled them... motor starts but is clacking knocking now badly!! No idea what could have happened to cause this. So, I'm sure I'll be removing valve cover now soon, probably the cylinder head..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It was a stuck valve!
FOG, I thought you were the holder of wisdom around these parts,
I feel dismissed and not listened to closely, and quick judged as a newb.
Ahh what can you do, in our current times everyone is pissed off.. and mostly rightfully so.
 

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I don't think it is a question of being dismissed or not listened to more a question of misinterpretation often newbs ask questions in way that the more experienced owners don't recognise. and it can take several posts before all the relevant information is disclosed and processed. often with several different solutions. it is the nature of forums. I am afraid.
 

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sorry that my Xray vision failed to spot your problem, maybe some kriptonite was in the way.'

FOG
 
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Obviously just lighthearted fun, calling out the "pro's" as not being so pro.
dank memes melt steel beams, and focused X-ray vision welds-shut PAIR valve tubes. There are steeeel tubes on the valve covers, check yourself, right!

Next time when a guy says a long-sitting-then-revived bike was running fine, then all the sudden clacking (and he thinks the clacking isn't rod knock).. it could only be common sense (that I failed to call myself the first time).. a stuck valve.
I can report with compression number later, was still suspect lower compression in that cyl..
 

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@TajMan Just a heads up, I know Lamp One was actively selling them at the start of summer. I still have my new set sitting on the bench from around June-ish, waiting for winter.
 

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hi. very amusing almost fell off my chair laughing at that one yes very good couple of points to consider though. it would have been easier and quicker to make a couple of blanking plates than welding them. I made some for guy in the UK that had a imported bike with the PAIR system we do not have it on ours 3/16 ally plate mark round cut out and drill 2 holes job done. second you suggested it had something to do with removing the eco system not anyone else.
you did a compression test and found an issue but no mention of a wet test this is vital information.
no one no matter how expert can remotely guess the exact issue from incomplete misleading information.
 

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FYI: the way I blocked the pair valve openings to the exhaust port ( those steel tubes (dowels)) was I just tapped the holes in the head t 3/8 16 and inserted short set screws ,walla plugged, on the valve cover ,threw away everything an a squirt of RTV to keep water out.
Not to knock the pair block off plates but that idea leave the possibility of exhaust gasses leaking into the oil chamber of the head.


FOG
 
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