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Discussion Starter #1
So I noticed when I turned me Petcock to the on position is get drip, drip drip... Of fuel coming from it onto the engine.... I tried tightening all the screws but it still happened. I called up the local place and ordered a rebuild kit, what came in was the all balls racing one. Ok, no big deal I just did it tonight and noticed a few things, one is that I have a few extra o rings. The second is that the screws that I had on the front (where you select on off or reserve) were much shorter than the ones that came with the kit.

I opted to use the old ones but of course I dropped one and can't find it now.

Does anyone have any experience with the all balls rebuild kit? Did you notice these were too long and would bottom out too?

There were also 2 o rings of similar size to the one that was on the lever. The lever is very hard to move now, bit not impossible, should I try the other one?
 

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Does anyone have any experience with the all balls rebuild kit? Did you notice these were too long and would bottom out too?
Can't comment on All Balls petcock kit, but have had recent issues with incorrect carb kit components (other Kawasaki, not EX500) and long ago their fork seals which weeped upon installation, forcing an instant redo using OEM seals. Will never again use their fork seals.
 

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Can't comment on All Balls petcock kit, but have had recent issues with incorrect carb kit components (other Kawasaki, not EX500) and long ago their fork seals which weeped upon installation, forcing an instant redo using OEM seals. Will never again use their fork seals.
I have actually had the same experience with their fork seals and will now only use OEM as a result. In fact, I wasn't thrilled with the last set of their bearings either and will never use the brand for anything again.

Back to the original question, I don't have any experience with the All Balls petcock rebuild kit, but I do have experience with various other aftermarket brands of such and the one thing they all have had in common in that they suck. None have compared to the fit and finish of OEM parts, most notably the vacuum diaphragm. The screws on the face plate don't bottom out, so the length doesn't really matter.
My recommendation is to bit the bullet and fork out the extra dough for either OEM rebuild parts or a complete OEM new petcock assembly. This may not have been the advice you were looking for, but in my experience, I have found this to be truly the only way to go when it comes to fuel system parts for this particular motorcycle.
 

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Back to the original question, I don't have any experience with the All Balls petcock rebuild kit, but I do have experience with various other aftermarket brands of such and the one thing they all have had in common in that they suck. None have compared to the fit and finish of OEM parts, most notably the vacuum diaphragm. The screws on the face plate don't bottom out, so the length doesn't really matter.
My recommendation is to bit the bullet and fork out the extra dough for either OEM rebuild parts or a complete OEM new petcock assembly. This may not have been the advice you were looking for, but in my experience, I have found this to be truly the only way to go when it comes to fuel system parts for this particular motorcycle.
^+1
At the very least it is the fastest and easiest way to a guaranteed 10's of thousands of miles of a trouble free fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I should have a new Petcock in the mail when I get home. Ended up getting 2 of the rebuild kits, should have just bought the whole new petcock. Of course when I ordered the second rebuild they never said that it was an aftermarket or THE VERY SAME ONE THAT I JUST COMPLAINED WAS WRONG! Oh well, ended up paying almost twice what I should have to begin with...
 

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A little late to this party but, you do know the petcock is vacuum operated so if the engine wasn't running. it was supposed to be off . the drip was that it was leaking

FOG
 

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Try a 1980-1983 Yamaha XJ650 petcock. Bolts right on. Vacuum operated, but has a "Prime" position which fills the carbs like "real" petcocks used to - you don't have to crank the engine for 30 seconds just to fill the float bowls. Any wonder why EX starters and starter clutches cause so much trouble? The process is similar to "tickling" an Amal carb to fill the bowl. Turn it to prime, put on helmet and gloves and your carbs are full. Flip it to "On" and you're good to go.

The XJ unit has no "Off" position (Prime, On, Reserve), but if it is in good shape the vacuum valve will stop the flow just like it does on the EX. The vacuum port is facing rearward, but you can either flip it 180º or just run a longer hose to the EX vacuum spigot. Your range-to-reserve might be different, due to different tube height, but that can be changed, also.
 
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