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Discussion Starter #1
OK so when I adjust the pilot screws, what am I looking for? How do I know when to stop? I read that it needs 2 1/2 turns but my bike seemed to run worst when I did that. I am sitting at 1 turn each now and I don't think that is enough. When I first bought the bike the right one was turned only 3\4 and the left was turned 1 1/2 times. I do have the FOG mod.

So turning the screw tighter does what????

Turning the screw looser does what??????

Thanks

Josh

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Read the FOG Mod again it tells you how to tune your pilots.

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re: Re: Pilot screw adjustment

Thank you for the fast feed back FOG...I re read the FOG mod how to.. my question now is where do I start the screws at (2 1/2 ???) when I sync my carbs and which way do I turn the screw... open or close???

Right now if I am sitting at a red light I can smell fuel coming out of the exhaust extremely bad. Its is not dripping but a very strong smell. I adjusted the floats to exactly 17mm and made sure they weren't sticking.

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Lefty loosy, righty tighty.

Tighten them until they are all of the way in, seated. The back them out. The amount you back them out is the turns. I put a small paint mark on my small screwdriver so I knew. One full rotation is one turn.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Re: Re: Pilot screw adjustment

Thanks for the response but yes I understand that. My question is do I turn them out to 2 1/2 and then rev it up and turn it 1/4 of a time or do I completely seat it and then rev it and turn it 1/4 turn until it accelerates right?

Thanks again for your response though.

Josh

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Seat hem lightly, you don't want to distort the o-ring, then turn them out 2.5 turns. Start bike , warm up, then adjust
 

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I used to take the screwdriver with me on rides and whenever i stopped, i would make an adjustment. when i was a beginner it was difficult to find the best position by sitting there revving it in the driveway. i have a park about 3 miles away, i would go there and tune then ride back and tune a second time, by three road tests i had it zeroed in. Somewhere around 2- 2 1/4 turns feels pretty good with the stock setup. 2 1/2 is usually too rich for my likings.
 

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I am slow sorry :-[

I started at 2.5 on my stock bike. Road it for a few days, turned them in to 2 and road it about 20 miles. Turned them in to 1.5 and road them for a couple of weeks. Now I am at 1.25 and road it for a couple miles. I have to evaluate this but it seems to be the ticket for me.
 

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FloridaEX500 said:
I used to take the screwdriver with me on rides and whenever i stopped, i would make an adjustment. when i was a beginner it was difficult to find the best position by sitting there revving it in the driveway. i have a park about 3 miles away, i would go there and tune then ride back and tune a second time, by three road tests i had it zeroed in. Somewhere around 2- 2 1/4 turns feels pretty good with the stock setup. 2 1/2 is usually too rich for my likings.
Agreed. I did the same.

OP - Every bike is different. Mine is set to 2 turns out. Ride and tune, ride and tune, etc until it feels right.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you all for the great feed back. Now would the pilot screws not being adjusted right make the smell of fuel very strong out of the exhaust and also poor mpg? Also I just changed my spark plugs again and they instantly get very black. Not wet just black, any suggestions on why that is happening?

Thanks so much,

Josh
 

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No the amount of fuel metered by the pilot screws is very tiny , your most likely to have a stuck/leaking float valve.

FOG
 

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Not to hijack but been tunning the pilots as well after the FOG Mod, and noticed yesterday after a ride a faint smell of fuel. On closer inspection i fount their to be a small gurgling sound coming from the vent tube on the carbs...any thoughts FOG?
 

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First of all remove the vent tube. carbs make no noise. your sound indicates something is wrong. a common problem id derbies blocking the float valves. Back flush the line and fit inline filter

FOG
 

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FOG said:
First of all remove the vent tube. carbs make no noise. your sound indicates something is wrong. a common problem id derbies blocking the float valves. Back flush the line and fit inline filter

FOG
Thats what i was thinking (float valves) but wanted expert advice. On the vent tube, just remove it from the T fitting between the carbs?

As for the pilot screw adj., i have been from 2-3 turns out with no real noticable diff.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
FOG said:
No the amount of fuel metered by the pilot screws is very tiny , your most likely to have a stuck/leaking float valve.

FOG
Thanks for the response FOG

I have cleaned the carbs twice in one month, bought all new orings and I thought I made sure the floats were set to 17mm (+/- 1). I guess I am at a loss of what I am doing wrong. I printed off the PDF for carb cleaning and followed it step by step and also watched the youtube video on how to adjust the floats. Am I missing something? How do I know if the float valve is sticking of leaking? It is frustrating showing up to work and just smelling like gas. :(
 

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I didn't say "floats" I said float valve. The rubber tipped pin that is operated by the float. Check to see if they are in perfect condition and when they are out flush the fuel line from both of them back to the tank. Do this over a piece of white paper to see what comes out. Then fit a inline filter before you re attach the line to the petcock. Finally use a separate source of fuel to supply the carbs to check for float leaks.
Set the carbs up in the angle they would be on when in the bike and let gravity fill them from the new tank and wait at least 10 min to see if they leak.

Learn to be through.

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #17
FOG said:
I didn't say "floats" I said float valve. The rubber tipped pin that is operated by the float. Check to see if they are in perfect condition and when they are out flush the fuel line from both of them back to the tank. Do this over a piece of white paper to see what comes out. Then fit a inline filter before you re attach the line to the petcock. Finally use a separate source of fuel to supply the carbs to check for float leaks.
Set the carbs up in the angle they would be on when in the bike and let gravity fill them from the new tank and wait at least 10 min to see if they leak.

Learn to be through.

FOG
Thank you for all of the information. I will try this when I get home tonight. I already have the inline filter in place :) It was one of the first things I purchased when I bought the bike.
 

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That's good advice from fog.

Don't just read the instructions word for word, think for yourself and take charge. Isolate the weak link of the work and test the hell out of it on the bench before you exhaust yourself and your battery trying to make a maladjusted carb work. Build a carb holder to help work on it. I build all kinmds of contraptions to make my job easier. I employ a carpenter to build me all kinds of things to work off of. For the bike and in my business. Not saying to go hire a carpenter but you can do a lot with a 2 x 4 and a saw.
 

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You'll know you have the pilot screw adjustment right when you have good off-idle response. Engine partially warmed up, starting from a stop, ease the clutch out using as little throttle as possible, then roll on about half throttle. If the engine bogs the setting is too rich. If it surges it's too lean. Try it again once fully warmed up and if it's rich it will be worse once fully warm and if it's lean, it will get better once fully warm. Turning the screws out richens the mixture, turning them in leans it out. Make sure both screws are at the same setting.
 
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