Understand that my post wasn't about practicing moving your weight off the seat. That's fine and can help with scraping issues. On a total stock suspension it won't eliminate the scraping but will certainly help. Just be sure you're practicing proper technique. Balls of the feet on the pegs, spine lined up with the bike's centerline, not pivoting around the tank, upper body to the inside, and with the high bars on these, forearms
at least level with the horizon. Make sure you've looked ahead into the bend, finding your apex, before to actually turn in. Once in and settled, on line to hit your apex, look ahead for your exit point. And once settled into the bend, as soon as possible, start picking up the throttle, smoothly applying through to that exit. All of this should be smoothly executed, practiced until it's a seamless set of smooth motions.
Swinging around the tank, almost as if the the gas cap was the center of your arc, is a common mistake and is often not felt by the rider as what he's doing but is very evident to an outside observer. If you try to keep your inside knee against the tank it's almost guaranteed that you'll be all twisted. The inside knee swung outward will help to pull your body back in line with the bike and is the real reason that the knee's put out there in the first place. Using it as a lean gauge is for the extreme and will happen all by itself when all of the other conditions are right.
Before to move your butt, practice with just your upper body leaned to the inside. Make your countersteer input with whatever effort it takes but once at your lean and settled, find the light bar input point that would allow you to let go of the bars at lean and still maintain your line. Don't literally let go of the bars but loosen your grip enough to detect if you
could. That's what you want! If the bike would dive to the inside you need more body weight transferred to the inside. Try just upper body first, then when that's no longer enough, start moving your butt over a little. When it's time, that should be done
without using the bars as handles and before to turn in. Move your butt over while the bike's still upright taking the load through your knees. On turn in, start using your upper body to the inside to lighten the bar input.
A good reason to use upper body only as a starting point to learn proper cornering is that you can get enough weight transferred that way for a pretty fast corner. It will help as you advance to realize that your upper body is where it's at and moving your butt over only adds some beef to the upper body fine tuning. Many riders start moving their butt over before they ever realized what the light bar feel is all about and as such, tend to get the butt off one way with the upper body either centered or worse, off the opposite way, like a dirt bike, never realizing that it's the upper body that leans in as a fluid part of the corner turn in, butt off the seat or not. Not getting the upper body to the inside is very awkward, never allows the totally light bar feel once settled into the corner, and will need to be unlearned to advance if you develop that bad habit.
Hope that helps. It really
does work.
BTW, McBig's photo above is pretty decent form. His claim of needing to get off more may have a point but it's decent form for the speed. Body inside, knee out, head turned looking well ahead. He may be able to do it faster with more body help but that's not exactly slow as is. Right Big?
