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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I decided it was time to replace the one on a 2002 EX500D just as a precaution. The local dealership had only one rated at 1.4 bar (20psi). The stock rating is 1.1 BAR. I put it on and rode and everything seemed normal. Will I have problems down the road with a cap with a higher pressure rating?
 

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It's more a case of it will be fine until it isn't. Whilst the cooling system is operating normally the cap makes no difference, its a safety relief valve effectively. If you have an issue that causes overheating and / or pressurising of the system the cap you have will release the excess pressure much later. So it could cause a hose to blow off or split that might not have done otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's more a case of it will be fine until it isn't. Whilst the cooling system is operating normally the cap makes no difference, its a safety relief valve effectively. If you have an issue that causes overheating and / or pressurising of the system the cap you have will release the excess pressure much later. So it could cause a hose to blow off or split that might not have done otherwise.
That was my thought also but if the bike's temp gauge is still accurate and I see no noticeable temp aberrations in my usual riding routes it should be OK. In comparing the two caps the new one did seem to have slight more spring compression resistance when depressed -very slight.
 

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It's more a case of it will be fine until it isn't. Whilst the cooling system is operating normally the cap makes no difference, its a safety relief valve effectively. If you have an issue that causes overheating and / or pressurising of the system the cap you have will release the excess pressure much later. So it could cause a hose to blow off or split that might not have done otherwise.
good answer. provided your hoses are new or in good condition and fastened securely there will probably be no issues the difference is only about 4psi. and under normal running the threshold is never reached anyway.
 

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If the higher rating is bothersome, you could seek out a proper rated cap, or even a good condition used cap. They honestly do not fail all that often. Checking the coolant levl and overflow tank on a reasonable basis might well alert you ahead of time and any trouble can be cut short.

I have the original caps on my '87 and '89 and they have posed no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If the higher rating is bothersome, you could seek out a proper rated cap, or even a good condition used cap. They honestly do not fail all that often. Checking the coolant levl and overflow tank on a reasonable basis might well alert you ahead of time and any trouble can be cut short.

I have the original caps on my '87 and '89 and they have posed no problems.
Good to know. When examining the cap it doesn't seem like a part which could or would fail even with extensive operating mileage. BUT!!! On some rides when I put the bike away I would notice some slight pooling of coolant under the bike. Was that the cap relieving some pressure? Perhaps the radiator cap's tension spring had indeed been weakened. With the new cap at 20K miles on a 2002 ridden very conservatively (I doubt I ever pushed the bike beyond 8K revs) I see no coolant at all.
 

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15 to 20 PSI 1.1 to 1.4 bar DOSEN'T SEEM like very much but it's a full 22% increase. go to a automotive store with one of your caps and find a correct replacement.
every component in your cooling system is marginal that increase in pressure could cause leaks in several places6tfgrv
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
15 to 20 PSI 1.1 to 1.4 bar DOSEN'T SEEM like very much but it's a full 22% increase. go to a automotive store with one of your caps and find a correct replacement.
every component in your cooling system is marginal that increase in pressure could cause leaks in several places6tfgrv
Thanks for the information. The fellow at the parts department of a local motorcycle dealer in Philadelphia seemed very blase about the mismatch which bothered me. I paid $24 which seemed high since I noticed some offerings at a much lower price on ebay. I still ponder the prospect that steel tension under load may indeed lose its original tension (there are maybe five windings of steel in the cap).
 

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The mechanical water seal on your water pump is spring loaded, and excess pressure will exceed its capacity to seal. Once overheated, you have to pull and flatten the cylinder head back out. Was your coolant low, or perhaps even overfilled?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The mechanical water seal on your water pump is spring loaded, and excess pressure will exceed its capacity to seal. Once overheated, you have to pull and flatten the cylinder head back out. Was your coolant low, or perhaps even overfilled?
I'm ' still ponderings. There were a few drops under the bike.
As advised I think I'll get a proper 1.1 BAR. I'll avoid the dealership where the parts guy sold me the 1.4. My riding is minimum- a few errands a week all under 4 miles in modest weather so I've never probably pushed the system. The fan motor would be running upon a return from a 13 mile trip to work but only for a short time and with no leakage since 2002, It's time to replace hoses for sure as a precaution. Thanks to all for your input
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Are you the original owner?
Yes, I think now the source of the few drops of coolant evident below the bike after a short ride came from perhaps the actual cap area. Perhaps it wasn't screwed on tight. Every possible source was cleaned and I see nothing at all anywhere. I assume I'm due for a thermostat at some near time. A regular car's thermostat usually gives out after 70K miles or 10 years.
 

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Nothing is coming out of the weep hole under the water pump? When my head was warped, the bike started pumping coolant into the catch can (which it never does when this particular bike runs as its supposed to.) Problem was as little as it was, it was cumulative; so it would come to a point where the bike would not suck back in the coolant. Once I discovered this problem, I stopped running it and had my head and cylinder machined. The reason I had the problem was due to a re-used coolant o-ring that blew out which resulted in a catastrophic coolant leak. I rode the bike home (short distance) which resulted in an over heated bike. When this bike is running as its supposed to, the fan rarely comes on and barely puts any coolant into the catch can.

Side bar, when I was doing carburetor maintenance on my other bikes, I replaced the t-stats as they are buried under the carbs. On my 91 v-4 bike the t-stat was broken in the open position, (usually-they break in an open position) I had a 73 Chevy small block that had a seized t-stat that blew the main radiator hose off the housing to the t-stat (so anything is possible.) I do have some nice Samco hoses on order for the next time I drain the coolant and do a valve/carburetor service on my EX. Keep us posted.
Wheel Tire Fuel tank Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Nothing is coming out of the weep hole under the water pump? When my head was warped, the bike started pumping coolant into the catch can (which it never does when this particular bike runs as its supposed to.) Problem was as little as it was, it was cumulative; so it would come to a point where the bike would not suck back in the coolant. Once I discovered this problem, I stopped running it and had my head and cylinder machined. The reason I had the problem was due to a re-used coolant o-ring that blew out which resulted in a catastrophic coolant leak. I rode the bike home (short distance) which resulted in an over heated bike. When this bike is running as its supposed to, the fan rarely comes on and barely puts any coolant into the catch can.

Side bar, when I was doing carburetor maintenance on my other bikes, I replaced the t-stats as they are buried under the carbs. On my 91 v-4 bike the t-stat was broken in the open position, (usually-they break in an open position) I had a 73 Chevy small block that had a seized t-stat that blew the main radiator hose off the housing to the t-stat (so anything is possible.) I do have some nice Samco hoses on order for the next time I drain the coolant and do a valve/carburetor service on my EX. Keep us posted. View attachment 56949
Nothing yet from the "weep hole". The owner will weep concurrently knowing a tear down and rebuild of the pump is needed. Rebuild parts are all a la carte. Shouldn't there be a nice tidy little water pump rebuild packet hung at very CVS kiosk near their pharmacy aisle?
 

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Nothing yet from the "weep hole". The owner will weep concurrently knowing a tear down and rebuild of the pump is needed. Rebuild parts are all a la carte. Shouldn't there be a nice tidy little water pump rebuild packet hung at very CVS kiosk near their pharmacy aisle?
That is the way the "ball bounces" so they say right? You should deal with a Honda over haul kit for their carburetors 2 kits per cylinder. It adds up, I needed one iridium spark plug at the auto parts store last night (don't ask) it was 18 dollars. If you look at it form strictly an economical perspective, your beating the system using things like we use them as opposed to antying up by going to the dealer. Probably better anyways as new stuff kinda sucks, brand new frig from Home Depot DOA, they were at least decent to me, Brand new dish washer from Lowes, electrical panel fault, they were not good to me and they will not see my Benjamins anymore.

Btw, CVS stopped selling cigarettes a while ago, I buy a bottle of wine there as its convenient and I like it (Snoop Dogg wine - LOL) what isle do you think they would put MC repair parts in??? Peace out
 

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With the condoms. You’re getting screwed paying CVS prices for aftermarket parts.
Btw, CVS stopped selling cigarettes a while ago, I buy a bottle of wine there as its convenient and I like it (Snoop Dogg wine - LOL) what isle do you think they would put MC repair parts in??? Peace out
 

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while it may be fun joking about spare parts. you guys are so lucky you can still obtain them from different outlets and find alternatives. all our places seem to have vanished. we no longer have auto stores where you can wander the aisles looking for bits that may fit.
all parts (both OEM and aftermarket) have to be ordered in an empty shop front with just a counter by quoting the registration number which finds the part on a database, no-one carries stock anymore either.
of course you can still buy cheap copies from E-bay or Amazon if you want them or order OEM parts direct from the dealer (by post only no walk ins), by quoting the reg number or the direct part number once you have found it online.

auto wreckers have gone the same way every vehicle entering the yard has to be drained and stripped into parts then stacked and itemised for resale. once again you go in quote the reg number to find it on a data base if your lucky he has the exact replacement part otherwise your out of luck.

the point of this reply is to highlight the fact that here it would be almost impossible to obtain a rad cap or thermostat that did not specifically fit any particular bike a rad cap for a gen 2 D model is all you would have been able to get rated at the OEM standard.
 

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Sounds like a dystopian society, there are still junk yards here where they don't immediately part out the cars/trucks. I know they drain various fluids etc. The real problem comes if they ever want to sell the land, then it becomes a problem because as you know if you drip a teaspoon of olive oil on the ground the envirnmental protection agency is gona hassle you. I have not been into an motorcycle dealer in over a year maybe, I spoke to a co-worker who is shopping for a naked bike that said they only had small motorcycles and nothing really much else.

I guess its all in the grand scheme of things to make the cars/trucks/bikes obsolete and make us embrace some idiotic electric vehicle.We need to stand up and fight this lunacy. Peace and Bless the Queen.
 
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