they dont cost all that much. take your pick.
http://www.bikebandit.com/2008-kawasaki-ninja-500r-ex500d-brake-pads-shoes/n1375?m=148914&f=2

 

What are the OEM pads? Are they organic or Sintered? I see the EBC Sintered for the front but not rear. What should I get?

I'm imagining the PO must have use only rear brakes for them to wear out this much faster than front. I don't hear any squeaking or anything, but I don't want to damage the rotor.

 

What are the OEM pads? Are they organic or Sintered? I see the EBC Sintered for the front but not rear. What should I get?

I'm imagining the PO must have use only rear brakes for them to wear out this much faster than front. I don't hear any squeaking or anything, but I don't want to damage the rotor.

I use the organic but I hear that the sintered stop better, also wear rotor faster.

 

just get regular organics for the rears. wheel doesnt have to be removed and neither does the exhaust. all you need is an allen wrench or socket to get the caliper off. once caliper is removed cycle brake pedal to remove caliper piston. disassemble the caliper and clean it out real good. reassemble and install new pads. bleed rear brake. done. you dont need to do the front brake if doesnt need it.

 

Hi , I am going to replace my pads (front and back) Front looks pretty straight forward. Regarding back - can you clarify the part about "cycle brake pedal to remove piston"? Do I need to remove piston and bleed the rear breaks or just replace pads? Like in the front. Thanks for any more info.

 

After further reading here and wiki I believe you were give instruction for bleeding. This was in the complete caliper cleaning post. Very thorough! Thanks for that. I went metal to metal on back break. This may be my main concern now. Any word on that. It really doesn't look or feel that bad so maybe put some new pads in an see how it feels.

 

After further reading here and wiki I believe you were give instruction for bleeding. This was in the complete caliper cleaning post. Very thorough! Thanks for that. I went metal to metal on back break. This may be my main concern now. Any word on that. It really doesn't look or feel that bad so maybe put some new pads in an see how it feels.

unless its really bad, new pads will do. Stop using the rear brake though, front does 80% of the stopping.

 

Thanks, I was hoping to hear something like that. Now I can stop worrying and kicking myself for letting it happen, and get back to it.
How bad is "really bad" is important. Subjective, but I will say I am very close but sounds OK to sand them down a little just to take the rough off, put new pads in and check it out. Thanks again

 

Thanks, I was hoping to hear something like that. Now I can stop worrying and kicking myself for letting it happen, and get back to it.
How bad is "really bad" is important. Subjective, but I will say I am very close but sounds OK to sand them down a little just to take the rough off, put new pads in and check it out. Thanks again

Post some pictures

 

Unless you have a small enough wrench to fit between the exhaust can and the caliper bracket then you'll need to remove the exhaust.




Sent from Motorcycle.com App[/color]

 

Unless you have a small enough wrench to fit between the exhaust can and the caliper bracket then you'll need to remove the exhaust.




Sent from Motorcycle.com App[/color]

Why? Ive never removed the exhaust and Ive had the rear off numerous times.

 

will post some pics if i can find my camera battery charger

 

pics are a good idea

 

Unless you have a small enough wrench to fit between the exhaust can and the caliper bracket then you'll need to remove the exhaust.




Sent from Motorcycle.com App[/color]

Why? Ive never removed the exhaust and Ive had the rear off numerous times.

I had to remove the can because I couldn't get the caliper off the bracket with the socket set I have.

How did you do it? Got a pic of the tool. I'm going to do a caliper service front and rear over the winter so if I don't have to remove the can, then all the better.

I'd appreciate the advice.

 

Unless you have a small enough wrench to fit between the exhaust can and the caliper bracket then you'll need to remove the exhaust.




Sent from Motorcycle.com App[/color]

Why? Ive never removed the exhaust and Ive had the rear off numerous times.

I had to remove the can because I couldn't get the caliper off the bracket with the socket set I have.

How did you do it? Got a pic of the tool. I'm going to do a caliper service front and rear over the winter so if I don't have to remove the can, then all the better.

I'd appreciate the advice.

Ill take some pics tonight if I remember, IM me so I have a reminder plz.

 

Unless you have a small enough wrench to fit between the exhaust can and the caliper bracket then you'll need to remove the exhaust.




Sent from Motorcycle.com App[/color]

Why? Ive never removed the exhaust and Ive had the rear off numerous times.

I had to remove the can because I couldn't get the caliper off the bracket with the socket set I have.

How did you do it? Got a pic of the tool. I'm going to do a caliper service front and rear over the winter so if I don't have to remove the can, then all the better.

I'd appreciate the advice.

Ill take some pics tonight if I remember, IM me so I have a reminder plz.

Thank you Sir! PM sent.

 

Update Front breaks completed today!! Thanks again for the pointers. Pictures of rear to follow. I think I will be ok even though i certainly went metal/metal. pics might be good for folks to see. Some tricky stuff so i took the can off which was no problem. the least of the trouble. The allen wrench bolts were way tight. I was missing my attachment for ratchet so got lucky with an allen wrench and a LARGE adjustable wrench after soaking with some wd40. Anyway did get un-assembled and ready when I get new pads.

Question - would it be of any benefit to put some $10 pads on the back for a few months to smooth the rotors, then replace them with better quality? Or just go right to the better quality?

I put EBC organic up from and expect I will be very satisfied with them.
Kind of a long post but I learned from what I did today and maybe it will help someone else too

 

Question - would it be of any benefit to put some $10 pads on the back for a few months to smooth the rotors, then replace them with better quality? Or just go right to the better quality?

Pads won't "smooth" rotors. If the rotor is grooved, it will actually "unsmooth" your pads (they will groove). If you can put $10 pads on the rear, go for it. Other than keeping you on a hill, or possibly emergency stopping (assuming your rear is on the ground at that point), you shouldn't need to use the rear at all. If those pads don't last you at LEAST 30,000 miles you need to learn to lay off the rear brake. Being dependent on your rear brake for stopping is a bad habit to have. I'm not saying you may or may not have one (I don't know how many miles you're replacing yours after), but just don't waste money making your rear brakes any better than they're not.

 

Good info on rear brake usage. Thanks. I will replace one time only so went with good quality - EBC organic which should arrive tomorrow.. I live in an area where I am at low speeds a lot so I do use my rear brake. Also I have trained myself if any speed going, I use front brake and then maybe slowly softly add back brake. Interesting to see how many people never use rear. I am going to pay a lot more attention to my useage because I have almost learned the hard way when I was learning and applying too much rear and having it lock. It is an unnerving feeling and happens fast. Thanks again

 

So I just wanna make sure I'm diagnosing the problem right. I just got my bike (used) about 5 months ago. All of the sudden the rear scrapes every time I break. It sounds like there's gravel in between the rotor and the pads. I think just replacing the pads should fix it? Also the rear tire has some extra resistance when I try to rotate it by hand.

 

I finally finished my pad replacements and took a fist voyage today. Happy! Back to that in a minute with pics. Regarding your rear brakes, after having just done mine. You are describing exactly what I had. I would suggest 1) Look at the rotors for clues of the wearing pattern. 2) take the caliper off and inspect things. The rear is easier than front. I would really recommend this especially if you see any odd wear on rotor 3) This is subjective to a degree but the sound upon hand turning, I think is normal and mine has always done that. Resistance? Shouldn't b much.
OK I put EBC organic front and back. I like them. I use my back brake way more than I thought. Photo will point this out. Will adjust my ride style. The rotors are more durable than I expected but there is still no excuse for how low I let my pads get.
Thanks again to all the input on this job. Well I cant figure out how to insert photo. wont make a diff on your job. was just curiosity for the site. badly worn pads and a rotor with two distinctively different shades of steal because of the thin brake pads

 

I finally finished my pad replacements and took a fist voyage today. Happy! Back to that in a minute with pics. Regarding your rear brakes, after having just done mine. You are describing exactly what I had. I would suggest 1) Look at the rotors for clues of the wearing pattern. 2) take the caliper off and inspect things. The rear is easier than front. I would really recommend this especially if you see any odd wear on rotor 3) This is subjective to a degree but the sound upon hand turning, I think is normal and mine has always done that. Resistance? Shouldn't b much.
OK I put EBC organic front and back. I like them. I use my back brake way more than I thought. Photo will point this out. Will adjust my ride style. The rotors are more durable than I expected but there is still no excuse for how low I let my pads get.
Thanks again to all the input on this job. Well I cant figure out how to insert photo. wont make a diff on your job. was just curiosity for the site. badly worn pads and a rotor with two distinctively different shades of steal because of the thin brake pads

I'll definitely do that next time I have a chance, Ill let you know how it goes.

 

Boom 135. Update/correction. Just got back from a ride. My rear brake does not rub when I hand turn it. I am pretty sure it did before my repair. Something else to keep in mind.