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Rear Shock Options, Including Budget

95K views 81 replies 30 participants last post by  urbane 
#1 ·
Hopefully this summary will help to group a bunch of scattered replies on the topic. Obviously, it's all JMO. :)

I found just a re-springing of the stock shock to be a very adequate economy answer to the wallowing and general lousy handling experienced on these as you start to push them, ESPECIALLY for just street use. It's NOT a Penske but is still a dramatic improvement. If you're not experiencing those wallowing problems, not pushing it a bit, or just a cruising type rider, ignore this post. ;)

I took the time honored approach that on a budget, the best bang for the buck is get the spring right. These are so soft that that approach made even more sense the more I thought about it. I took the measurements, figured the linkage ratios, drew up some cups, sourced a used spring, and proceeded. I was AMAZED with the improvement and easily recommend it to anyone who wants to improve the suspension but hasn't the money to do it "right" (translation: Penske, translation: $). ;)

I've used this on the track and will again, finding it totally rideable, but the shock absorber's weakness really shows there, cold tearing tires. Inflating a couple of extra pounds over typical track pressures will help, but not totally cure that. If you're a rider who track rides and can push that hard you could probably justify the cost of a Penske just with a season's tire wear savings alone and could realize the benefits of a nice, tuneable shock.

But if you're a street rider, possibly a novice track rider just getting into it, you won't have the tire tearing problem and will LOVE the dramatic improvement in handling if you're riding twisties even a little hard. On the street, even experienced riders won't be able to push so hard as to have the cold tear issues and will find that it's rideable at a pretty good pace, certainly FAR better than a stock set-up. Not a Penske, but not so bad. :)

It requires a spring for your weight, a set of special machined spring cups and, not necessary but highly recommended, a set of links (often called dog bones) to raise it.

The spring is a 2" X 6" series from Hypercoil and is the same spring used on Penske's shock. They are available in 50# increments. The range most likely to be used on these is 400, 450, or 500#, and for the really husky ones, maybe a 550#. New cost, about $100.

The spring cups are machined from 6061 aluminum and should cost no more than $100. I can make them for that, shipped. That price may be better depending on material costs.

The links to raise the rear and built with a minor outward step in them to clear the spring's slightly larger diameter should cost no more than $65. If you weren't raising the rear the stock links can be used but a washer should be added to each side to afford just a little more clearance. The addition of the washers then requires a longer set of bolts to maintain the engagement of the locking feature on the stock nuts. The spring will just fit between the links either with this mod or a purchased Penske, but even the slightest shift of it on the spring cups or the smallest variation in diameter will cause it to rub. Not good. The additional 1/16" per side assures clearance.

Summary: The cost for the shock mods alone is about $200.
Add the links for a truly complete package and the total is $265.

Shopping for a used spring from a racer who has had occasion to change his Penske shock's spring could be as little as $25 shipped (that's what mine cost) so you could conceivably complete the whole deal for under $200. If you have access to a machine shop and can figure out the parts, maybe way less than $200.

Next lowest cost package to my awares is a basic Works Performance shock, ordered and sprung for your weight, at about $400. That's an old price and from memory so it may be more, not likely less. It would still need the links if raising the rear was to be done so add the $65 for those to complete the package. That makes a total of about $465.

The ultimate, the Penske, sprung for your weight, is around $875. It has everything including adjustable ride height. (For those not familiar, ride height adjustment is NOT the same as spring adjustment. All of these, including your original, have spring adjustment, but not ride height.) At its lowest setting it already raises the rear 7/8" but can then be adjusted up from there. It should have washers added to the stock links to assure spring clearance and then longer bolts to assure the locking nut engagement. Those longer bolts will not be hardware store stock in that size and length so will have to be ordered from a fastener supplier. Expect between $10 at best and $20 at worst by the time you cover shipping and handling, getting that package up to just under $900.

So, there you go. A good list of the options... for the rear. ;D If you're going to do the rear you should really consider doing the front, too. The best handling is when you keep the front and rear working similar. With a spring change at the rear that will be at least a one third increase for anybody but the lightest rider (the stock rear is 300#) and it will underscore the front's soft springing. :(

At the front expect to spend $150 for parts to do the springs alone. That would include the springs, fork oil, and a little for miscellaneous. Add another $150 for cartridge emulators and you'll have all of the parts for the front, as good as it gets. No high dollar Penske options here, thank goodness. ;) The works for $300, the minimum for $150, or maybe shop the racers again for used.

Additional Notes:
This list is from my experience with my bike over about 10,000 miles riding as modded, riding it on both street and track, about equal amounts of each. (I use it coaching novice sometimes.) The total list of mods is:

1. re-sprung rear.
2. links to raise rear (started at 7/8", now at 1 1/2").
3. re-sprung front.
4. cartridge emulators front.
5. front raised 1/2" by sliding tubes in triple tree clamps.
6. radial tires.
7. lowered stock bars (approx. 2") using old 600 risers.
8. carburetor pilot screws out 2 1/2 turns.
9. EBC front brake pads.
10. EBC floating front rotor. (Just installed, warped two stockers beyond hope.) :(

That's the TOTAL list. And in that configuration it can be ridden quite fast without doing scary things. :) If I were racing it or running against my lap timer at track days, going for the track record, ;) I'd certainly want a Penske. If one comes my way at a steal, I'll buy it and put it in. Other than that, I'm content with the bike as it is.
 
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#54 ·
Here's a link to a thread about rear springs (Pro-Shocks) that evolved after this thread was created. They don't require the special machined cups for the Hypercoil/ Penske spring described in the thread making them a drop in piece. Makes it less than $100 bucks. Also has remarks from several users about the efficacy of the whole endeavor. 8)

http://www.ex-500.com/index.php/topic,4423.0.html
 
#55 ·
Just installed a heavier rear spring(from pro-shocks for only 50 dollars plus shipping), heavier fork springs and installed fog bones, can actually feel a difference now, doesnt dive as hard when i brake, bike also sits higher from the fog bones, feels alot better turning now and being 250 with gear on, the old stuff was way soft, only problem with putting the fogbones on is that the center stand barely holds the bike up now, will probably have to put a 2x4 under it to lift the bike up high enough. One question though, on the 2nd gens, is there allready a spacer installed with the spring in the front, i was under the impression the past while that it was only a spring in there stock, but im guessing not
 
#56 ·
Stock has a thin walled steel tube spacer at the top, directly under the cap. Approximately 4-5" long.... if I remember correctly. (It ain't 2" and it ain't a foot.) ;)

Check the front and rear static and free sag settings after completion to confirm that the front spacer and rear adjustments are correct. Refer to the posts if necessary. 8)
 
#57 ·
dad said:
Here's a link to a thread about rear springs (Pro-Shocks) that evolved after this thread was created. They don't require the special machined cups for the Hypercoil/ Penske spring described in the thread making them a drop in piece. Makes it less than $100 bucks. Also has remarks from several users about the efficacy of the whole endeavor. 8)
Dad, can you post the link. I'm trying to determine what size (length & diameter) as well as spring weight I need to order.
 
#58 ·
twowheels said:
dad said:
Here's a link to a thread about rear springs (Pro-Shocks) that evolved after this thread was created. They don't require the special machined cups for the Hypercoil/ Penske spring described in the thread making them a drop in piece. Makes it less than $100 bucks. Also has remarks from several users about the efficacy of the whole endeavor. 8)
Dad, can you post the link. I'm trying to determine what size (length & diameter) as well as spring weight I need to order.
Oops. :-[ http://www.ex-500.com/index.php/topic,4423.0.html Added it above, too. :)
 
#61 ·
Ok just to make sure i have this corect.
in order to improve my shocks and rise the bike for comfort i need to purchase:
a shock spring from proshocks.com, 1 7/8, 8in, 350 (as i weigh about 145-150)
and Fogbone risers.

do i need to purchase anything else?
 
#62 ·
MavT said:
Ok just to make sure i have this corect.
in order to improve my shocks and rise the bike for comfort i need to purchase:
a shock spring from proshocks.com, 1 7/8, 8in, 350 (as i weigh about 145-150)
and Fogbone risers.

do i need to purchase anything else?

Thanks so much dad for posting this topic, it is very helpful.

I was planing on doing the same mod as MavT. I am getting ready to order a proshock probably a 500 or 550 (I'm about 260lbs, i know need to drop) I also believe the fogbones are the way to go just waiting to get paid on friday ;)

To answer the question I found this topic on the proshock: http://www.ex-500.com/index.php/topic,4423.0.html

The one question i have is the proshock looks shorter than the stock one. Do i have to put a spacer if the shock is so much stiffer? in the posted topic the consensus was no but has anyone done this with positive results? if you don't have to add the spacer will will the sag be right without any adjustment?
 
#63 ·
RangerBEH said:
MavT said:
Ok just to make sure i have this corect.
in order to improve my shocks and rise the bike for comfort i need to purchase:
a shock spring from proshocks.com, 1 7/8, 8in, 350 (as i weigh about 145-150)
and Fogbone risers.

do i need to purchase anything else?

Thanks so much dad for posting this topic, it is very helpful.

I was planing on doing the same mod as MavT. I am getting ready to order a proshock probably a 500 or 550 (I'm about 260lbs, i know need to drop) I also believe the fogbones are the way to go just waiting to get paid on friday ;)

To answer the question I found this topic on the proshock: http://www.ex-500.com/index.php/topic,4423.0.html

The one question i have is the proshock looks shorter than the stock one. Do i have to put a spacer if the shock is so much stiffer? in the posted topic the consensus was no but has anyone done this with positive results? if you don't have to add the spacer will will the sag be right without any adjustment?
this link may help http://www.ex-500.com/index.php/topic,4423.0.html
 
#66 ·
When installing a pro spring in the rear you can wrap the lower spring insert in electrical tape to increase it's outside diameter to match the inside diameter of the pro spring. This will prevent lateral movement of the lower end of the spring. This will help to keep it from touching the dog bones. This technique works well on the bottom since the insert has the same depth as the width of a roll of tape and gravity will keep it in place even if the tape and adhesive degrades. On the top though I fabricated a plastic color from electrical conduit similar to what others have done.
 
#68 ·
I have an 88 and just recently my shock died. I did the sv650 shock from and 07. Ride is night and day!
 
#69 ·
Forgot to mention on my 88 I didn't have to space my links out to clear the spring. I checked when installing and thought, meh, letts give it a miles to try. 300km plus now and not a scrape.
 
#70 ·
Ok, this has been informative to say the least. I do however have a question I didn't see answered directly.
I'm a pretty big guy, with my riding gear on I weigh somewhere in the 260-270# range. I haven't had a chance to measure the sag yet but I can tell you that when I get on the bike it *feels* like it moves a couple of inches. That being said I know I need to upgrade the suspension on it so to my question: I'm a college student (read: poor), I can afford to do either the front OR the back at the moment. Should I buy the springs for the front and wait to do the back or do the back first and save for the front? There is the other option of buying one now, leaving it in a box until I can afford to buy the other then upgrading everything at once. If it wouldn't adversely impact performance and handling I'd like to do one now, but if that's not realistic then so be it. So... thoughts?
-Chip
 
#71 ·
ouemt said:
Ok, this has been informative to say the least. I do however have a question I didn't see answered directly.
I'm a pretty big guy, with my riding gear on I weigh somewhere in the 260-270# range. I haven't had a chance to measure the sag yet but I can tell you that when I get on the bike it *feels* like it moves a couple of inches. That being said I know I need to upgrade the suspension on it so to my question: I'm a college student (read: poor), I can afford to do either the front OR the back at the moment. Should I buy the springs for the front and wait to do the back or do the back first and save for the front? There is the other option of buying one now, leaving it in a box until I can afford to buy the other then upgrading everything at once. If it wouldn't adversely impact performance and handling I'd like to do one now, but if that's not realistic then so be it. So... thoughts?
-Chip
I would do the pro spring at the back as a first step. It will cost about $60 + shipping. You can also cut the springs in the front ($0) which will offer a big improvement, this has the same effect as installing springs of a higher spring rate, see threads, and latter upgrade the front with cartridge emulators and better springs. No you don't have to do both at the same time although the total improvement with both is greater than the sum of each.
 
#72 ·
Wow, that is some post Dad! Awesome! I have a question about the shims for the stock springs and thicker fork oil. I am trying to improve my skills as I improve my bike, now that I have my fogbones installed I really see the huge change (for the better) but I also see now just how much the front suspension sucks. :-\

I want to keep improving but can't do everything at once, rear sets form FOG are next. Is it really nec. to replace the springs right away? or can I replace the shims with longer ones and thick oil going to be enough for a while. When I get hard on the brakes, the bike really dives now pretty hard. Kinda weirds me out if I have to hit the brakes in a curve unexpectedly :eek:
Where is the best place to get "shims" and or "springs" Front and rear? Here is one site I found...
http://www.sonicsprings.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=29_58&osCsid=63d8ff9996ce00f642eb260a915cdc3e
Read some where that for my bike and size I should get EX/Ninja 500 - 0.90kg/mm Sonic Springs. Is that correct? This site said to get the 0.85kg/mm set. Hence my questioning.

Also rear shock needs to be replaced with the spring or can I just replace the spring. I am 5'10 170#'s. (400# spring for the rear) I have an '09 (if it matters).
Thanks for any and all help to make this stupid-proof. ;)
 
#74 ·
Opening up another can o' worms... I see some people mention swapping out for an SV650 shock. I don't know much about EX500s but I do know a fair bit about SVs. The OEM SV shock is no great shakes- tends to lose its damping after 3,000 miles or so, and not designed to be rebuildable (seals are crimped into place). I can see it being an improvement with respect to spring rate, but there may be better ways. Bear with me for a bit...

There are two generations of SV650s- the '99-'02 1st gen bikes and the '03-present second gen. The stock shocks differ from one generation to the next. In either case, however, there are shocks from other higher-end bikes that bolt up (often needing some modifications to the battery box, etc.) and offer a more appropriate spring rate, better damping, greater adjustability, and the potential to be rebuilt/resprung/revalved.

You can find a nice comparison chart here: https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=ps_vckzc_V1BFcykul9z8Bw#gid=1

(edit- old link, try this instead: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...jg2MTcwS2swVFF0TU5UX3c&authkey=COvG24gH#gid=1 )

Why go into all of this detail? Because there's the potential to find a great shock for the EX500 buried in here. First things first, though: What is the eye-to-clevis length of the stock EX500 shock? What is the spring rate, and how much travel does it have? These three specifications are key.

For instance: If you look at the chart and find the specifications for the stock first generation SV650 shock (line 24) you'll see it is 337mm long, has a spring rate of 510 pounds/inch, and has 63mm of stroke. Starting with the spring rate, the stock spring is (much like the EX500) too soft for the bike. Ideal spring rate is in the 600-650 pounds/inch range. And the stock length is known to be on the short side- going 5-8mm longer sets the swing arm's geometry in a better position to work with the progressive linkage. Comparing these specifications to those of the different shocks listed reveals that the '03-'04 ZX6R (636) (line 6) is a pretty good match- the spring rate, while not perfect, is certainly a move in the right direction, and the length and stroke are both favorable to this application. And considering that you can generally pick one up for $50 or less (I scored a very clean, low-mileage one for $35 on Ebay) it makes a great bang-for-the-buck upgrade to the rear suspension. A Penske it ain't but it's definitely a step up over the flaccid stock unit.

So... it would be handy to have similar information re: the stock EX500 shock. Might be the possibility that there's a drop-in solution from another bike out there...
 
#75 ·
WOW, what a change!

This weekend I did springs front and rear with fork seals and 15wt shock oil. All that I can say is, WOW! Thanks Dad for your great suspension tutorial. The theory of operation really helped to clarify what needed to be done and why. After some trial and error, I finally got my preloads right and my free sag is almost zero and my static sags fall right into Dad's recommendations for the street.

I'm considering the FOG bones, but I'm not sure that I ride hard enough to warrant putting them in.

To all of those who have gone before and done the legwork on finding suitable parts, thank you.

I used a 450# spring from Proshocks located here. http://www.proshocks.com/rshocks/springs178.htm
I used Racetech front springs @ .90kg/mm from here. http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/Kawasaki/EX500 Ninja 500R/1994-2009
And Silkolene 15 wt shock oil from here. http://www.amazon.com/Silkolene-Fork-Oil-15w-80077900478/dp/B000WJAZHC
 
#76 ·
Just adding info on a few budget options that go along with the stuff mentioned here. All three of them are described at http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php?title=Upgrading_the_Suspension.


SV650 Shock Swap Write-up and Results
My '91 Project EX500
The SV shock swap is fairly common now. The main improvement seems to be the 430# spring, good for a rider in the 170-210 range on an EX500. It requires minimal mods that can be done acceptably in a home shop to fit on the EX500. It's a little longer than stock, which will raise the rear end over 1" at the cost of slightly changing the suspension geometry (which doesn't seem to cause problems). It's still a lowest-bidder, non-adjustable, non-rebuildable OEM shock, but it works pretty well as a budget respring (usually about half the cost of an aftermarket spring).

Budget respring for average-sized riders
The PreGen Ninja 250 has a shock very similar to the EX500, but with no preload adjustment and a 440# spring, good for a rider in the 175-215 range on an EX500. The spring is a bit shorter than stock, but its measurements seem closer to stock than most aftermarket options I've seen, in both length and diameter. It will drop right onto the stock shock, and used EX250F shocks are a dime a dozen (since you're only using the spring, the shock's condition is less important). It's a bit more work to get the spring off the EX250F shock since it lacks a preload adjuster and the shorter length cuts into how much preload you can put on it, but it will fit on the EX500 with no other mods whatsoever. If you were considering the SV swap, this might be an easier way to get similar results.

Great budget shock for bigger riders
The NewGen Ninja 250 has a 520# spring, good for a rider in the 210-260 range on an EX500. It's a completely different shock design, but the whole spring/shock unit drops right into the EX500. Mine measured about 5/16" longer before putting it in, but it may have settled a bit - it doesn't seem that much longer now that it's installed. I imagine the EX250J shock is quite similar internally (i.e. nothing special over other low-end OEM Kawasaki parts), but it'll inherently be newer than most EX500 shocks. If you're a bigger guy, this is a great way to get a drop-in heavy spring.


The EX250 shocks give a couple options for budget resprings without the hassles usually associated with the larger SV/aftermarket springs or needing other mods to fit. Again, these aren't a replacement for installing a Penske, but they are cheap and easy ways to get a spring more suited to your weight. As dad says in the first post, the best bang for the buck is to get the spring right, and since our springs are rather soft to begin with, this makes even more sense.
 
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