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Place the bike on the center stand. Remove and discard the axle nut cotter pin. Use a 12mm wrench to loosen the chain adjuster lock nuts, loosen them to the end of the adjustment stud. Use a 14mm wrench to loosen the chain adjustment nuts, loosen them back to the lock nuts. Remove the chain guard. While using a 17mm wrench to hold the axle bolt, take a 24mm wrench or socket and loosen the axle nut. Push the wheel all the way forward. Work the chain off the rear sprocket. Continue to remove the axle nut. While supporting the wheel, continue to pull the axle all the way out from the left. Set the wheel straight down on the ground.


Place a tool into the right hand side swing arm, all the way through the swing arm and almost all the way through the brake caliper mount. The axle its self could be used to do this. This is to keep the caliper in place when the wheel is removed.
Pull the wheel straight back so the brake rotor clears the caliper. At this point if need be you can push what ever tool (or axle) deeper into the caliper bracket, to more securely hold it.



You will need to tilt the wheel in order to clear the rear fender.


Upon replacing the wheel, the spacers will more easily stay in place if you coat them with a heavy duty grease. (Although grease is not necessary for lubrication)


Semi blown up view of the spacers. Showing which goes where and in what direction. Axle nut is on the right.

Spread the brake pads on the caliper apart a bit, to give more room for the rotor. Tilt the wheel again to clear the fender, straighten it back up and roll it forward while making sure the brake rotor goes between the brake pads. Work the chain back on the rear sprocket. Remove whatever is holding the caliper mount at this time.



Make sure that part A on the swing arm fits into groove B on the caliper mount.

Try to make sure that everything the axle passes through is lined up. Lift the wheel into place and place the axle in from the left side. If the axle wont go all the way through, you may need to use a flashlight to look into the right hand side, to see what is not lined up straight. Once the axle is all the way through place the axle nut back on and just hand tighten it a bit. Properly adjust your chain slack and rear wheel alignment. With the adjustment nuts properly in place tighten the lock nuts. Torque the axle nut to 80ft.lbs. Pump the brake to make sure that is up. Replace the chain guard. Replace the cotter pin with a new one.

Tip:
You can more easily support the wheel if you place something under it that fits between the wheel and ground while the axle is still in place. But note, if your changing the tire, what ever fits right while removing the wheel may be too big when replacing with the new tire.
 
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