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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I noticed that my coolant is at the lower level line. What type of coolant should I buy? Can I use the same type of coolant for my car, or do I need to buy special m/c coolant? Also, once I purchase the coolant, what is the water to coolant ratio?

Thank you,
Nadine
 

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I'm new to water cooled bikes. In another topic I think someone said to use coolant designed for motorcycles. The container should have any info you need on mixing it up for your climate. Might as well flush the system out & put in all new fresh stuff, eh?
 

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If it's cold and at the lower line, that's fine. As it warms, that should go up a bit indicating that not only is the level OK but all else is functioning fine.

The coolant is a 50/50 mix of standard anti-freeze. There was a day that you might have to read the container to be sure it was compatible with aluminum heads but that's so prevalent anymore that I'm not aware of any anti-freeze that isn't. Any name brand should be OK but read the container anyway to be sure. Also, be careful to read the container as some places are now selling anti-freeze that is already diluted 50/50 right out of the bottle. You don't want to add water to that.

Best to use distilled water. Cheap at the grocery store. Just be sure it is distilled water, not spring water or other bottled drinking water. Distilling eliminates the minerals that are dissolved in water, including bottled drinking water, and can cause corrosion problems.
 

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when you mix the coolant to 50/50 with water, it can handle -37C (if i remember right),
if you put 30% of glygol and 70% of water, the freezing point is -56C (and this is true). but im not sure, which of those liquids gets more heat away from the engine, and who needs lower than -37C(or even that) freezing point.
 
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Nadine, if you do decide to top-up, why not then flush the entire system and refill it? A jug of 50/50 pre-mix (saves you the mess of mixing it yourself) costs less than 10 dollars (Canadian), and the work shouldn't take more than 20 minutes and some very basic tools. Drain the fluid into a pail, flush the system clean and pour in your new stuff!
 

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Please flush the old coolant down a toilet, not the street or storm sewer.
The coolant is tasty AND poisonous to many creatures.
The sewage treatment process will deal with the chemicals.
 
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Or keep a plastic gas can like I do which I've so far filled with 8 quarts of transmission fluid, 4 litres of coolant and about 15 litres of used car and motorcycle oil.

Now, what to do with my cocktail of sludge!


(Don't worry, it'll be a somewhat environmentally friendly send-off)
 

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US Army Environmental Command

"The U.S. Army Environmental Center (USAEC) worked with the Mobility Technology Center—Belvoir (now the Fluids and Lubricants Technology Team at the U.S. Army Tank Automotive and Armament Command, Warren, MI) to conduct field testing of two military approved ethylene glycol recycling systems at four Army sites. The KFM Corporation, Cool'r Clean'r Coolant Purification System was tested at Fort Bliss, Texas and the 88th Regional Support Command in Indiana. The Finish Thompson BE-55C Coolant Reclaimer system was tested at Fort Drum New York and Camp Dodge, Iowa.

The field tests helped improve the user manual for antifreeze recycling and found the most efficient way possible to train soldiers to use these systems in the field.

The purchase of antifreeze recycling systems has a payback period of about two years. The cost to recycle antifreeze is about $4 per gallon, compared with $11 per gallon for new antifreeze (including disposal). Recycled antifreeze performs as well as new antifreeze.

This savings has a direct impact at the unit level, as the savings accrue to the Operations and Maintenance accounts.

The benefits of this technology include environmental protection and savings of maintenance resources with no impact on training or maintenance effectiveness. "

http://aec.army.mil/usaec/technology/p2compliance03.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OMG...it's not as easy I thought! :eek: Water Wetter, Engine Ice, Honda brand, 50/50 mix...yikes! So I'm basically looking for anti freeze that is made specifically for motorcycles that is aluminum safe, right? At least I know about the 50/50 mix b/c I recently bought coolant for my car. I live in Southern California and it is not what you would call cold at the moment. When I ride out, it is in the 70's and the coolant is at the lower line. Should I check the coolant after I come back from my ride to see if the coolant rises a bit?

As far as flushing the system, do you think I can do it myself? I can't find anything in my owner's manual on how to flush the system. But then again, you're talking to someone who can't even get my Ninja on the centerstand! I'm so scared that I'm going to drop it. You should see how I lubricate my chain! That's a sight by itself! How often do I need to flush the system? Do you think I can just top it off for now? If not, I'll probably have to take it in.

Thanks for all of the help. BTW...I would never empty the coolant down the street. After I change the oil to my car, I empty it at a disposal center.

Nadine
 
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Nadine - a coolant change is recommended every 2 years. Check out the Periodic Maintenance Chart http://www.ex-500.com/index.php/topic,161.0.html

Yes, you can definitely change your own coolant - there is a write-up on another EX-500 website. http://diycycle.info/index.php/topic,39.0.html.

I don't like linking to them, but it's the only one I know of and I don't want to just copy and paste their info....

As you'll see from that write-up, it's a very fast job, and very easy.

Just head to your local hardware store, as other users were saying, almost any coolant should be okay, just buy a 50/50 pre-mix. If you buy a 50/50 premix, you won't need to worry about getting messy mixing water and coolant together.
 

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the drain plug is on the water pump. you pour the new coolant into the radiator cap on the left side of the bike.

the oil drain plug is underneath the filter, on the bottom of the bike.

the oil fill is on the right side of the bike, above the oil sight window.


im pointing at the coolant drain plug. the oil fill cap can also be seen in this picture. its on top of the engine side cover, where it says KAWASAKI.




here you can clearly see the location of the radiator cap.

 

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THANKS! pictures help me a lot!

after adding the new oil and putting the oil filter on...do i just strt it up?

i ask because when i droppe dthe biuke i my garage it got airlocked and I had to burp it by opening the oil filter a bit and then cranking it ...do i need to do that?
 

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you need to put the filter on before you add the new oil :)

1 put your bike on the centerstand
2 start it up and let it run for a few minutes to warm up the oil. then turn it off
3 place an oil pan under the crankcase and remove the oil drain plug... go get a cup of coffee while it drains out.
4 remove the filter
5 open up a new can of oil and use your finger and coat the rubber seal on the new oil filter
6 screw the new filter on just hand tight. you dont need to crank it on there. just screw until its hand tight, then give it another half turn. if you overtighten it the filter can leak.
7 install the drain plug and tighten it securely.
8 remove the oil filler cap
9 add 3.5 litres of whatever oil you are using. (3L if you didnt change the filter)
10 screw in the oil fill cap securely
11 start the engine and let it idle for a bit. check for leaks (from the filter, from the drain plug)

your oil is now changed. go ride and have fun.
 
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