Ex-500.com - The home of the Kawasaki EX500 / Ninja 500R banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. Was doing some maintenance and decided to try my hand at greasing the swing arm and linkage. Was going great until I got to the pivot bolt on the linkage that is closest to the front of the bike. I undid the nut and when I try to pull the bolt out, the exhaust is in the way. My thought was to remove the left side exhaust but that seems like overkill and I’ve got to believe I’m doing something wrong. Anybody else run into the same issue? Or, is that front bolt supposed to stay in place and not be serviced?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,938 Posts
As per service manual instructions:
The exhaust system must be removed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
363 Posts
Takes 30-seconds to remove exhaust. Do it.

Would be good idea to replace all O-rings on pivots. Get those ahead of time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,309 Posts
Have thought about installing zerks for greasing w/o removal. This would require some small "channels" in the bushing surface so that the grease could flow - but that would be easy enough with a Dremel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Well that answers my question as to whether or not to invest in a service manual haha. Thanks guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Takes 30-seconds to remove exhaust. Do it.

Would be good idea to replace all O-rings on pivots. Get those ahead of time.
I’m reading in the Haynes manual that to remove exhaust you have to take off front fairing, and radiator to do so. Is that necessary or are our concepts of “30 seconds” different?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
363 Posts
Sorry, meant to say just "muffler" has to be removed. Header-pipes can stay in place. About 15-seconds with power-tools.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
602 Posts
I’m reading in the Haynes manual that to remove exhaust you have to take off front fairing, and radiator to do so. Is that necessary or are our concepts of “30 seconds” different?
ah. that depends on the bike. with mine all I have to do shout at it and takes itself apart while I have a coffee. it been apart that many times. >:)

seriously though the more you get into the bike the easier is becomes, on a stock bike you only have to remove the end can I believe. pinch bolt and rear foot peg. a lot of bikes have two into one exhaust then it's not required if you make sure the bolt goes in from the blank side. and don't forget to strap the front wheel to the centre stand if working on the rear end it stops the bike being push off the stand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,938 Posts
The headers have to be removed in order to remove the unitrack. At least according to the FSM. That's the way I did it, and it worked without issue. IIRC there is a pin that wont come out with the headers on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Ok. I’m going to try just taking the exhaust off without moving the radiator so I can get to the linkage tonight. Thanks everybody for the input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
I just did this (for the second time) and from my many, many mistakes, I can say this: 1. make sure you've got some way to suspend, or jack up, the bike or at least the back end (cause you're gonna be needing to raise the center stand to get to one of those bolts on the Unitrak). 2. go ahead and remove the radiator because 3) It'll be easier to remove and especially to reinstall the pipes if you do, plus you can sand em down to get the rust off, and look things over.

You CAN service the uni-trak without removing the pipes or the radiator. (I have done it). But it's a bit of a pain. Much smoother if you just take them off. And the main advantage is you get to look things over.

Another note: while you're doing it, take the shock out too, clean up and grease that top bolt. I neglected the to do that, the first time around, and the end result was not nearly as good as it could have been.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top