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So, as you can tell, I'm having fun with my new bike.


The front cowl has a large gaping hole where the right turn signal stalk used to be.




Is there a way to repair this hole with out replacing the whole piece?
 

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I would feather both sides of the hole and use fiberglass on both sides. You want the surfaces where you lay down the fiberglass to be very roughly abraded, free of paint, and clean. The fairing is ABS I believe but I have gotten decent adhesion with polyester resin. Then you can bondo and smooth out. Since the chemical bond between the polyester and ABS will be weak you will rely on a good mechanical bond - i.e. very rough surface and very clean. Also by fiberglassing both the inside and outside the patch will sort of hold itself together.
 

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Fiberglass is a much mentioned material for such repairs. I don't know why. it is completely non compatible with ABS plastic (that's what your fairings is made from) while it will stick to anything for a while it will eventually separate and fall off.
Get some old broken body parts from almost any bike and cut a suitable patch from it . remove all the paint from an area at least 1/2' from the broken edges especially on the insides till you see black. Obtain some plumbing glue for plastic pipe labeled "for ABS " and use it. You can then use Bondo for a thin surface prep.

FOG
 

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FOG said:
Fiberglass is a much mentioned material for such repairs. I don't know why. it is completely non compatible with ABS plastic (that's what your fairings is made from) while it will stick to anything for a while it will eventually separate and fall off.
Get some old broken body parts from almost any bike and cut a suitable patch from it . remove all the paint from an area at least 1/2' from the broken edges especially on the insides till you see black. Obtain some plumbing glue for plastic pipe labeled "for ABS " and use it. You can then use Bondo for a thin surface prep.

FOG
The bond will not be as good as, say, an epoxy resin on an epoxy substrate, but then again it is not awful between polyester and ABS. Again the key is to rely on a good mechanical bond with surface roughness. Also most bondos are polyester based and they stick "OK" as long as the surface is well prepared.
 

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Notice I said "thin" but there are a number of better fillers avaliable from Body Supply shops. The key here is keeping the rates of expansion and contraction equal and maintaining flexability.
Both Polyester and Epoxy ant vastly diffrent rates of thremal expansion and will eventually come loose. A good mechanical bond will cause this action to take a little longer but the end result will be the same.

FOG
 

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FOG said:
Notice I said "thin" but there are a number of better fillers avaliable from Body Supply shops. The key here is keeping the rates of expansion and contraction equal and maintaining flexability.
Both Polyester and Epoxy ant vastly diffrent rates of thremal expansion and will eventually come loose. A good mechanical bond will cause this action to take a little longer but the end result will be the same.

FOG
humm .... the front signal holes on mine has been fiberglassed for a couple years and you wouldn't know it unless you look from the inside .
 

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Lucky#13 said:
FOG said:
Notice I said "thin"  but there are a number of better fillers available from Body Supply shops. The key here is keeping the rates of expansion and contraction equal and maintaining flexibility.
Both Polyester and Epoxy ant vastly diffrent rates of thremal expansion and will eventually come loose. A good mechanical bond will cause this action to take a little longer but the end result will be the same.

  FOG
humm .... the front signal holes on mine has been fiberglassed for a couple years and you wouldn't know it unless you look from the inside .
Fog's right, first direct hit it took would probably pop it right out.  FOG's method is exceptionally cheap and will be done as close to right as can be.  I would spend a bit of money and buy the proper filler.  If you are asking these questions, chances are you're not going to be experienced enough to get away with only using a thin layer of bondo to conceal your handywork.  I know my local auto parts store sells bumper repair kits and is compatible with ABS and is only about $30 for the two part filler.  Two parts is nice because it can be stored and used more then once without drying up.  I have a few years of autobody experience and was a certified painter many moons ago.

**EDIT** I forgot to mention that plastic welding may be a good alternative to using bonding agents, less likelihood of paint compatibility issues.
 
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