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I have an 08 EX500 with 130k miles. The clutch started making noise so I bought an EBC SRK11 clutch kit. I drained the oil, removed the clutch cover, removed the pressure plate, and removed the friction disks and clutch plates, leaving them in the order I pulled them out. I counted them and made sure I had the correct number in the kit. I smeared a coat of oil on both sides of the new friction disks such that they appeared wet, and installed the disks and plates in the correct order, starting and ending with a friction disk. I replaced the pressure plate, put in the new springs (which were longer than the stock ones, they are supposed to be 15% heavier), and torqued the spring bolts to 82 in-lbf. I re-bolted the clutch cover. I set the clutch cable.

When I pull the clutch lever, I can see pressure plate pulling out, but if I put it in first I can't turn the rear wheel. The lever arm on the clutch cover rotates about 45 deg to be perpendicular with the bike when pulled to the bar. I though maybe it needed to pump oil through, so I filled it up, and let it run. If i attempt to put it in first it grinds the gears, I didn't try to force it.

It should have been really straight forward, so I'm not sure what I could have done wrong. Hence, Looking for suggestions.
 

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So, what caused the original noise?

When you go back in, suggest you check the clutch hub nut, the clutch hub, and the clutch housing.
If it all looks good, put the old springs back in, and see if that makes a difference.

If problem persists, measure the thickness of the new plates; compare to old plates.
 

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was the inner hub free to rotate with all the plates out (in neutral) was the centre bearing good (92045-1235) I had to replace mine along with all the spacers and bushes as they were all well worn @82k and very noisy.
I also left the friction plates soaking in fresh oil for a few days while waiting for parts after I had rubbed them down with fine sandpaper to make sure they were flat and even (they were not straight out of the box). the springs on mine are ZX600 so much stiffer than stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So, what caused the original noise?

When you go back in, suggest you check the clutch hub nut, the clutch hub, and the clutch housing.
If it all looks good, put the old springs back in, and see if that makes a difference.

If problem persists, measure the thickness of the new plates; compare to old plates.
I'm positive the original noise was from the clutch. It was a scraping/grating noise, most easily heard when starting from a stop, and instantly went away the moment the clutch was pulled. No grinding or other issues when shifting. Moved my foot for a down shift, and slightly bumped the gear lever moments before I was going to pull the clutch, and it popped right in. It was perfectly smooth, caught me off guard, and didn't cause the bike to bike to lurch either.

The original friction plates were speckled with rust colored (not actual rust) spots. I don't know if they are designed it to make noise when worn or not. The clutch plates looked fine with one or two very small burn spots a a couple of them.

I'll double check the rest of the clutch parts, didn't see anything the first time, and I'll try the original springs as well, though that shouldn't have any effect on whether it can disengage or not. I'll have to get some calipers so I can measure the plates.

was the inner hub free to rotate with all the plates out (in neutral) was the centre bearing good (92045-1235) I had to replace mine along with all the spacers and bushes as they were all well worn @82k and very noisy.
I also left the friction plates soaking in fresh oil for a few days while waiting for parts after I had rubbed them down with fine sandpaper to make sure they were flat and even (they were not straight out of the box). the springs on mine are ZX600 so much stiffer than stock.
Yes the inner hub rotated freely, and I believe all the bearings were good, though I'll double check when I pull it apart again. I didn't soak my plates because the ebc box said it wasn't needed as they are aramid, not cork.


It decided to be super windy today, and I don't have a garage, so I'll have to wait a couple of days, don't want dirt/debris getting blown into my case.
 

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When measuring the friction plates I would compare them to OEM specs (old ones may have some wear after 130,000 miles). New friction plates should measure 2.9mm - 3.1mm. There is no room for them to be any bigger. Mine measured 3.0mm after about 70,000 miles. I would still compare the steal plates against the old ones.


Does the inside of the clutch cover show any wear (or rub marks) near the center?


Is this the original engine and has 130,000 miles on it? If unknown, how many miles were on the bike when you got it?
 

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"The original friction plates were speckled with rust colored (not actual rust) spots.
I don't know if they are designed it to make noise when worn or not.
The clutch plates looked fine with one or two very small burn spots a a couple of them."

As far as I know, they are not designed to make noise when worn; just like brake disc pads are not designed to make noise when worn so far to let metal contact metal.
For brakes, the car folks invented a sensor to track the wear and warn you before contact. No such thing for motorcycle clutches.

Can you post a few pictures of the speckled friction plates, and the burned steel plates?

And take a look at the grooves in the clutch hub and clutch housing.
 

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Are you sure you haven't left one of the old friction discs in place, that you have the operating mechanism properly installed and adjusted. if so you clutch is just stuck either force it loose or take it apart again .

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Does the inside of the clutch cover show any wear (or rub marks) near the center?

Is this the original engine and has 130,000 miles on it? If unknown, how many miles were on the bike when you got it?
The clutch cover is pristine inside. Yep, original engine, 130k miles. I bought the bike with something like 60k or 70k, can't remember exactly. I've rolled the odometer over to 30k now.

Can you post a few pictures of the speckled friction plates, and the burned steel plates?
The old friction plates still in the bike:
52908



Are you sure you haven't left one of the old friction discs in place, that you have the operating mechanism properly installed and adjusted. if so you clutch is just stuck either force it loose or take it apart again .

FOG
Yep, 100% nothing left behind. I've been reading about other bikes with stuck clutches as well. I started the bike up this evening and let it run for a min. I didn't want to be so harsh, so I shut it off, put in in first, and started the bike with the clutch pulled in. Gently let the clutch out, got the wheel spinning, pulled in the clutch, stomped on the rear break. I did this a couple of times. Checked and I could shift between neutral and first just fine. Took it for a test ride and it is buttery smooth and the power pulls hard and consistent, 10/10.

The grating is all but gone for the most part. Think I might have heard something similar but rather quiet so probably just some other mechanical noises, but I'll ride it more and keep an ear out. As such, I'm not going to take it back apart.

Thanks for the suggestions, it's like riding a brand new bike.
 

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The grating is all but gone for the most part. Think I might have heard something similar but rather quiet so probably just some other mechanical noises, but I'll ride it more and keep an ear out. As such, I'm not going to take it back apart.
Possibly just the new friction plates bedding in?

As long as you can shift smoothly, and the clutch isn't slipping, you are probably fine.
 

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+1 on the above. it is the reason I soak the friction plates in oil prior to fitting and make sure they are flat. also with a engine of 130k there will most certainly be wear in the primary chain (non adjustable) which often creates a knocking inside the clutch case.
 

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New plates are all fuzzy (not warm) and need to be worn in a bit. This further evidence that this bike is old school, in design and execution. You (the owner) is expected to finish the building,with break in proceedure.
Ever notice that new cars don’t have breaking rules anymore.
Fog
 
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