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Special Note:
I will be describing this using OEM specs. With any forks that are
modified or are planning to be modified (in an acceptable manner), adjust procedures accordingly.


Follow instructions in this thread>Fork oil change
up to, but not including oil replenishment.

Remove the rubber dust seal from the fork.
You can carefully get it started with a standard flat head screwdriver and then remove by hand.


Place the fork in a vice.

I'm improvising using a C-clamp. Use blocks of wood for protection. I have this clamped to the "ear" of the fork, where the fender attaches to. It doesn't need to be clamped super tightly.


You will need something to stop the fork cylinder from spinning while removing the allen bolt at the base of the fork.

I'm using Kawasaki part #57001-1057

It attaches to a T-handle (Kawasaki part #57001-183)



Place the cylinder holder through the top of the fork. Use a 6mm allen wrench for the bolt at the base of the fork. The short end isn't
long enough, so for leverage a box end wrench on the allen wrench (as pictured) will work to break it loose. Once broken loose the allen wrench by itself will easily remove the bolt. The bolt's not torqued super tight, but it does have loctite on it.


Once the bolt is removed you can take the fork out of the vice.

Turn the fork upside down and the cylinder will come out the top end.




Remove the retaining ring shown here.
In a similar fashion that the fork cap retaining ring was removed. Although this one should be easier.

Holding the outer fork with one hand, and the inner fork with the other hand. With the fork fully compressed pull it to the extended position fast and hard several times to tap the fork apart.



Once the fork is separated, the cylinder base will come out of the outer fork.



Internal parts:
A. Inner bushing
B. Outer bushing
C. Washer
D. Oil seal


Place the outer fork back in the vise. Replace the old inner bushing with the new one. Insert the cylinder with the small spring into the inner fork. Let it drop all the way down and through the bottom of the inner fork until it stops. Place the cylinder base on the cylinder. Install the inner fork, with the cylinder and cylinder base in place, into the outer fork. Take the bolt that was at the base of the fork and clean the threads. Discard the old crush washer on the bolt and use a new one. Apply a little blue loctite to the threads of the bolt. Place the cylinder holder through the top of the fork and screw the bolt back into the base of the fork. The torque value on this bolt is 14.5ft.lbs.


Slip the new outer bushing down the top of the fork. Press it into the outer fork as far as possible by hand. Take the old outer bushing and slip it down the top of the fork, down to where the new bushing is.

With a 37mm oil seal driver (or equivalent) gently tap the old bushing into the new bushing to seat the new bushing in place. You should hear an audible difference in the tapping noise once the new bushing is seated. Once the new bushing is seated, remove the seal driver and old bushing.
Note: Generation 1 bikes require a 36mm oil seal driver.
Next install the washer.
Take the new oil seal and lubricate the inner lip with fork oil. Lubricate the outer lip with a minimal amount of grease. Slip the new oil seal down the top of the fork with the side that has the lettering facing up. Use the oil seal driver to drive the seal in place. It will have to be whacked harder than the bushing was to get it in place. Drive it in just far enough to reveal the groove in the outer fork that holds the retaining ring. Install the retaining ring, it's best to use a new one. Install the new dust seal, this can be pressed in by hand.

Refer back to this thread>Fork oil change
and pick up where you left off to complete.

Refer to this thread>Forking Around: A Fork Maintenance Guide
for more tips and modifications.
 
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