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Discussion Starter #1
So i made the mistake of parking behind a truck in my buddy's driveway 2 weeks ago and the result was a destroyed front fender. Ive already got the new one, but when i went to replace it it looks like you have to take the wheel off to fit it on. Anyone had any experience with this? Also keeping in mind that my centerstand is MIA at present, anyone have an idea on how to lift the front end? OH. and are there torque specs for the front wheel bolts/ axle/ whatever?
 

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When I painted my bike I was able to remove/replace the front fender without removing the front wheel. Its a little difficult but you can do it.
 

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CerialPhreak said:
So i made the mistake of parking behind a truck in my buddy's driveway 2 weeks ago and the result was a destroyed front fender. Ive already got the new one, but when i went to replace it it looks like you have to take the wheel off to fit it on. Anyone had any experience with this? Also keeping in mind that my centerstand is MIA at present, anyone have an idea on how to lift the front end? OH. and are there torque specs for the front wheel bolts/ axle/ whatever?
You must remove that front wheel to get the fender on without damage. Can't help you with how to raise front end. There are torque specs for the front axle etc. but I'm at work without my clymers. Someone will chime in with them soon I'll bet.
 

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If you remover the lower fairing you can get a jack under the oil pan or the lower frame with some wood. If no jack then get some help sliding a prop (and stabilizing the bike) under there while you lift the front slightly. You proably will have to remove the wheel the get the fender on.

Like 2dogs I'm in a place where I can't get the torque specs.

While you're in there it's a time to lube the speedo cable and loctite the cable mount to keep it from vibrating loose.
 

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On my 1st gen, I've been able to remove the fender without removing the wheel.

All I had to do was to get all the air out of the tire and then squeeze it with clamps.

That was with the old 110 tires on, with the 120, I had to take the wheel off, it's not too hard to do :)

If you remove the wheel, I strongly suggest you to stick something like cardboard or a peice of wood between the brake pads ;)
 

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One thing that you may not realize with taking off the front tire is that you need a HUGE allen wrench (12 mm). You'll prolly have to go buy one unless you have a very large tool collection. Luckily, my neighbor has a monster truck, and just so happened to have one that I could borrow. I just put my wheel back on today after putting the fender back on and took her for a ride!!!!
 

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CerialPhreak said:
blent87 said:
It's not nice to call your mechanic buddies tools ;)
Eh, they had it coming anyway... haha. How many ft/lbs did you torque your wheel to?
Thats a big nut so it's "pretty tight"

FOG
 

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FOG said:
Thats a big nut so it's "pretty tight"

FOG
Is that halfway between a "getting-up-from-the-recliner" grunt and a "the-wrench-slipped-and-I-busted-my-knuckles" growl? Just trying to set a solid benchmark for "pretty tight."
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think its closer to somewhere between taking a dump in a hurry and knocking over a coke machine. Thanks for the numbers 2dogs.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So, i tried taking off the wheel this weekend... no dice. Couldnt for the life of me (and my buddy) get the bolts loose using ratchets, a breaker bar, even an impact. I know one bolts gotta go one way and one the other, i wasnt sure which is which, but either way i couldnt get them moving. Any ideas? Might just deflate the tire and try to wedge it out.
 

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Righty tighty, lefty loosy

FOG
 

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May sound like a dumb question but I've gotta ask. You did loosen the pinch bolts on the fork right? On mine the left side fork is the "nut" so I just loosen those pinch bolts up and remove the nut. Then I loosen the pich bolts on the other side and can take the axle out.

I can't believe an impact would not break it loose unless somehing else is up.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
FOG said:
Righty tighty, lefty loosy
Well put. However what i meant was that i thought one side was reverse threaded.

Matt, Im not entirely sure what the pinch bolts are. The bolts that im trying to remove are the ones at the end of the fork that need a 12mm alan socket.
 

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The pinch bolts are either on the front or back side of the fork. They are smaller allen wrench bolts that "pinch" the fork tight so that the 12mm bolt (that you're trying to loosen) doesn't move. If you need a picture, I can go take one.
 

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Yup. And they are locked into place from spinning by a pair of small allen bolts in each of the forks. At least on a 2nd gen. Notice the vertical split laterally in the forks? That is so they can pinch together to hold the axle and nut. The axle itself is kind of like a shoulder bolt and what I call the nut is round and has blind threads and is capped by the monster hex head.

If you only loosen the pinch bolts on one side then putting the allen wrench on that side should break the nut loose even if you are turning the axle. I just prefer to turn the nut where possible. There is no reverse thread anywhere. In fact there is only the thread on the one side of the shoulder bolt.
 
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