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124 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
ShadesOfGray's wiki page on wheel removal/installation:

Could use an update including the actual installation of the rear wheel (along with a short-list for install/removal).

Here's a thread discussing it:


The more recent responses in the thread have a specific short-list of remove/install steps. Providing a short-hand list of steps in addition to the lengthy description-version will come in handy (along with adding the section at the bottom for "installing rear wheel").

ShadesOfGray mentioned in an edit at the bottom of that wiki page about holding off on the "install rear wheel" portion until getting service manual info for socket and allen wrench sizes.

Here are the "special tools" listed from the Kawasaki service manual from section "Wheels/Tires 9-3":
Rim Protector
Bead Breaker Assembly
Inside Circlip Pliers
Bearing Remover Shaft
Bearing Remover Head
Bearing Driver Set

(Those are tire specific (not wheel), so they do not need to be added to that particular page.)

Regarding socket and allen wrench sizes - the service manual doesn't provide specific sizes. ShadesOfGray already provided most of the sizes in the "removing rear wheel" section of the page, the same would apply to the "installing rear wheel" section. One thing that isn't listed - if including caliper removal/reattaching along with rear wheel removal/installation - is the hex key, which is a 6mm hex key socket, courtesy of this wiki page.

Feel free to use the steps in the thread linked above as a reference for adding the "installing rear wheel" section.

Here are a couple important specs, straight out of the service manual:

Torque - rear axle nut:
80 ft.lb. (110 nm, 11 kg.m)

Torque - caliper mounting bolts & brake hose banjo bolt:
18 ft.lb. (25 nm, 2.5 kg.m)

(It was brought to my attention in the thread linked above that the brake hose does not need to be messed with at all, so the 18 ft.lb. torque above can just apply to the caliper bolts. (And of course the 80 ft.lb. rear axle nut torque.))

0 Posts
Re: ShadesOfGray's wiki page on rear wheel removal/installation.

Axle nut is 24mm

124 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Re: ShadesOfGray's wiki page on rear wheel removal/installation.

Here we go... for anybody (ShadesOfGray?) who would like to update the "wheel removal and installation" wiki page... I went ahead and put these steps together for removing and installing the rear wheel specifically. The necessary tools are listed throughout the steps:

Remove Rear Wheel

Use center stand & put block under wheel. (Or your friend's dissertation (old hard cover book.))

1. Detach caliper from disc.
- 6mm hex key to disconnect caliper brake unit from silver caliper plate*.
- Don't mess with brake hose, just tie caliper unit up away from wheel. A short thin bungee cord works well.

2. Remove axle nut & axle.
- Pliers for cotter pin.
- 24mm socket wrench for axle nut.
- Dead blow hammer to lightly tap axle through.

3. Remove chain from sprocket.
- Loosening chain tension is optional at this point. (Use 12mm and 14mm wrenches if you do.)
- Push wheel slightly forward to give slack in chain, set chain on swingarm away from wheel.

4. Remove wheel, silver caliper plate, sprocket, & spacer.
- Remove silver caliper plate from the swingarm groove.
- Remove sprocket from left side of wheel (it just pops right out).
- Remove metal spacer from right side - caliper brake side - of wheel. (It will otherwise eventually end up popping out.)
- When setting wheel down, set on surface with brake disc facing up after removing sprocket, or lean against a surface.

Install Rear Wheel

1. Reinsert sprocket & spacer, set wheel in place, & put caliper brake unit (without caliper plate) in position.
- Optionally spray a very light coating of lubricant over rubber teeth at center of wheel if sprocket is tight to fit.
- Reinsert metal spacer into right side of wheel before setting wheel in place.
- Untie or remove bungee cord from caliper brake unit and set in place over brake disc of wheel.
- Optionally, before setting wheel in place, get inside to the ball bearings at center of wheel and use some ball bearing grease.

2. Put chain on sprocket.
- Loosen chain tension (if you haven't done so already).
- 12mm and 14mm wrenches for chain tension adjuster bolts on left and/or right sides.

3. Insert axle (partially), slide silver caliper plate into swingarm groove, finish inserting axle, & secure caliper.
- Push axle through beyond the sprocket and left inner rim of wheel, stopping at right inner rim.
- Slide caliper plate into swingarm groove.
- Insert axle rest of the way; dead blow hammer to lightly tap axle through.
- Optionally add axle nut but keep it loose for now.
- Tighten caliper brake unit with 6mm hex key.

4. Adjust chain tension, align wheel, tighten axle nut, & add cotter pin.
- 35-40mm (1.3-1.5") chain slack; use tape measure, ruler, or eye-ball-it.
- Align wheel with alignment measuring marks (plates) on both swingarms. Use additional alignment methods if you wish.
- 24mm socket on 1/2" drive torque wrench for tightening axle nut to 80 ft.lb.
- Insert cotter pin; pliers to keep it in place.
- Optionally lube chain if it has been a few hundred miles since your last chain lubing.

Finished with center stand & block/book; test ride around the block (away from traffic), check rear brake, feel the wheel alignment.

Last step:

Ride safe!

*The silver caliper plate is the plate of metal that horizontally slides into the swingarm groove between wheel and the actual caliper brake unit.

4,986 Posts
I would, but blaaagh. I'll update the page sometime this week if ya'll remind me. I've been a pretty crummy wiki admin lately, mostly because I haven't ridden in ~1 year and I'm spending a lot less time on the forum than I used to. We could use a new wiki admin who is willing to put in a lot of time to keep the wiki updated and error-free.

12,319 Posts
you know, the beauty (and the worst part) of the wiki is that anyone can edit it. if something is incorrect that you know to be so, then go ahead and change it.
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