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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

What's the "proper" way to measure slack in the chain drive? I know it's supposed to be 35-40 mm, but the Haynes manual just says to push up on chain and measure slack, while OEM manual doesn't give any instructions just a diagram. How much force do I push with? I just pushed up reasonably hard, and measured from a slack position without pushing down at all- is this right? Also, are there torque values for the two adjustment locking nuts, or is it just like reasonably tight?

Also, that rear hub thing is hella wobbly. Probably an 1/8 wobble horizontally when I push on it, and like a 1/4 inch along the circumference. I'm assuming the rubber dampener is worn down? I'll replace it eventually, but should I be worried, or is it ok to ride for now? I mean I checked rear spoke run-out as per manual, but while it's in spec, it would be way out of spec if I pushed on that rear hub while measuring...not sure if its ok or not?? Didn't notice this wobble on it before, maybe that had something to do with how loose my chain got all of a sudden....

Thanks all, appreciate the wealth of info here.
 

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chain adjustment well it depends on how pedantic you want to be. it's a chain not a rubber band. push it up until it stops moving. place a tape measure under the swing arm in the middle of the chain note the measurement to the top of the chain. release the pressure note the measurement to the top of the chain the difference is the slack. or if your just lazy like me. while parked lift the chain with the toe of your boot. the chain is about 12/15mm thick so about two chain widths. will do.

as for the hub I assume you mean chain carrier hub. there should be no wobble on it there is a spacer on the outside and a spacer on the inside held tight by the wheel stud. you may have a little radially that is wear on the cush rubber.
are you sure you have the axle nut tight enough.
the adjusters have two nuts the inner one is for adjustment the outer one is a lock nut brute force not required adjust the chain with the inner nut lock the wheel with the axle nut then tighten up the outer nut so it locks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you, this is really helpful.

The axle nut is definitely tight enough. Set torque wrench to 80 ft lb. Had to turn a little more to get that cotter pin through hole, so it's about 95 ft lb torque. Guess it's probably the chain carrier hub then. Sounds like as long as the axle nut is sufficiently tight, then I should be ok since the wobble is from worn cush rubber?
 

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as an aside and for information only. that chain carrier has a bearing in it. the spacers abut the inner race of this bearing.
it is possible you a little wear in the bearing allowing the outer race to wobble while the inner is tight due to the axel.
 

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If the sprocket wobble you describe is only when the wheel is off the bike, your fine.
You can take the play out of the cush drive by shimming pieces of cut up inner tube between the existing rubber.
 

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"Probably an 1/8 wobble horizontally when I push on it, and like a 1/4 inch along the circumference."

I wish we had a video. Check out YouTube video titled:
"How to fix a cush drive on the cheap..."

I don't know what you mean by "horizontal" and "along the circumference"

If you put bike on centerstand, not running, shift into 1st gear. Then push/roll wheel forward and backward,
and you will see/feel the excessive play in the cush drive. Video shows one way to fix that; other folks
use beer cans or pieces of duct tape to increase the size of the cushion to leave no movement.

If you put the bike on the centerstand, not running, grab the back wheel and pull and push side to side, left to right, and you feel any movement
then check to see if it moves at the swingarm, or at the rear wheel. If it moves at the rear wheel, could
be missing one of the many spacers in the back wheel, see the parts fiche for specifics.
 

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Yeah, I thought the description was a little iffy. My response probably not very clear either.

I think I see a cush drive "How-To" write up on the horizon. 😁
 

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yes clarification would help but. with a little imagination in non bike terms it seems pretty obvious to me.
by "horizontal" and "along the circumference" I would take that as horizontal being level movement along the horizon IE, from side to side in the chain carrier if the OP meant wheel surely he would have said so.
circumference as in a direction around the sprocket IE. radial movement (cush rubber or sprocket bolts loose).
I think that explanation is right I await being corrected. though.

as a note whenever the rear wheel is removed it always recommended to check the rubber cush buffer. if just slots in and the drive hub slides on in all probability it is too loose and needs shimming. I had exactly this issue once. the old rubber was well beat up so I bought a brand new Kawasaki one. fitted it and it failed the MOT due to slackness in the drive after shimming I had to jump up and down on the carrier to get it into the rear wheel. then it passed.
 
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