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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. Bought a non runner ("ran when parked" but parked with a half tank of gas) 1992 EX500 (manufactured 10/92), and after draining the tank and hooking everything back up (previous owner had cleaned the carbs but neglected to hook the tank up to vacuum). Anyway, got it to run, and even idle well, but once I give it a twist of the throttle, she dies.

Ideas? It's too hot to work on it now (116º at the airport, 120º at the house), plus the bike was warm enough to start the radiator fan (good to know that works).

As for how everything is hooked up, the fuel line from the tank goes to the bak/lower fitting on the tube between the carbs. The vacuum line (from the petcock) runs to a tee that is connected between the carbs (towards the front/upper). There is a cap on the vacuum line that comes out of left (gear selector side) carb. I've found some great diagrams, but none state what connects to where, just list the parts as "tube" and the size.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Robert
 

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Is your sidestand up? Cause the bike will die if the sidestand is down and you have it in gear and try to rev. If it is up that switch might be bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
fourflush, the sidestand is up, and I can hear a switch clicking when I put it up and down (bike was on the centerstand).

Knightslugger, looks like I'll be rebuilding carbs next week.

Need to redo the vacuum lines as well (one should be vented under the seat while the other should go to the petcock, currently, they are both connected via a tee fitting and go to the petcock, found the correct routing in the "how to" section under the valve adjustment thread). It also appears I am missing some pollution control equipment (see pic of under the tank).

Thanks for the responses.

Robert

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Yeah nice responces, But there all wrong. If the picture shows the bike as your trying to run it, the cause is false air from the open vacume line off the right carb.

FOG
 

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Its hard to tell from the picture but it looks like you have your petcock vacume line teed with the carb overflow drain. that black tube that connecs the two carbs (not the one the fuel line is hooked into. is a drain and i'm pretty sure that its not supposed to have vacume.

Since someone has removed most of your emmissions stuff you should be able to cap off the vacume line comming out of the right carb and run the line from the left carb to the petcock.

Or, if you just want to get it to idle/run you can clamp off both vacume lines. Use a funnel/turkey baster to fill the float bowls and it should run from there.
 

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And you should put an inline fuel filter in since you have to tank off. Save you a lot of heartache down the road
 

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^ Did the fuel filter mod yesterday while the air filter was drying. It's a breeze.

It was funny to see the guy at the shop reaction when I kept on asking a smaller filter though.. He kept on saying the one I chose was for scooters: 'Smaller it will just starve the engine :eek:' He rides a 1200cc bike ;)
 

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I thought my Wakula filter was starving the carbs for fuel. I had a stutter in 6th gear at about 6.5k. Thought I had pilot problems, fuel filter problems ect....It was a failure to perform maintenance. Cleaned the air filter and presto! Guess I kinda forgot the simple normal everyday maintenance required. Very humbling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Okay, so the line that comes off between the two carbs (black piece that is currently connected to the bottom of thetee) is for fuel overflow and the one off the right carb connects to the vacuum on the petcock? The vacuum outlet on the left carb is already capped.

As for the fuel filter thing, I was planning on it, just haven't got there yet. Besides, taking the tank on and off at this point is a 30 second deal. I was thinking the fuel filter for a VW Beetle should be about right for this (it's common and inexpensive), or is there something else I should use?

Again, thanks for the replies.

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay, we have a winner. FOG and fourflush were correct. Pulled the tee and ran the fuel overflow to the rear of the bike (used irrigation line for a test, will use the proper line after a run to the store), and ran a single vacuum line to the petcock. Fired right up and revs just fine now.

Thank you for all the replies. Figuring out what goes where (the Haynes manual doesn't show vacuum/fuel lines) was easier thanks to all of you, and the pics in the how to section. plus,


Now all that I need to do is get a helmet, ignition and gas locks, repair or replace the fairing, recover the seat.... :D

Thanks again,

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
mugwump said:
Gloves? Jacket?
Yes to both. I'm a full gear rider (long pants/jeans, boots or decent high-top shoes, jacket, gloves & Helmet), but wow, gear has changed in the last fifteen years. Looking for vented (115º yesterday, in the shade) gloves and jacket. Likely get another Shoei, probably a TZ-R.

Robert
 

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vegas said:
mugwump said:
Gloves? Jacket?
Yes to both. I'm a full gear rider (long pants/jeans, boots or decent high-top shoes, jacket, gloves & Helmet), but wow, gear has changed in the last fifteen years. Looking for vented (115º yesterday, in the shade) gloves and jacket. Likely get another Shoei, probably a TZ-R.

Robert
maybe look into a mesh jacket like the Joe Rocket Pheonix 4.0, and the JR Atomic 2.0 gloves they were well ventilated and full leather.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Jason said:
maybe look into a mesh jacket like the Joe Rocket Pheonix 4.0, and the JR Atomic 2.0 gloves they were well ventilated and full leather.
A mesh jacket and vented (summer) gloves are in order. The bike is a budget item right now (I'm into it for $400 including the purchase of the bike and a manual). Looking at the Shoei TZ-R helmet (found one online for $240). The JR Phoenix 4.0 or the Atomic 2.0 look about right. Will have to try them on for size/fit. I was also looking at the Phoenix/Atomic gloves as well. Gloves are easy to find in my size (XL), but jackets are another story (3XL Tall).


Looks like I'll be pulling the carburetors anyway. There is fuel leaking, though I cannot identify the source yet.

Robert
 

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vegas said:
Jason said:
maybe look into a mesh jacket like the Joe Rocket Pheonix 4.0, and the JR Atomic 2.0 gloves they were well ventilated and full leather.
A mesh jacket and vented (summer) gloves are in order. The bike is a budget item right now (I'm into it for $400 including the purchase of the bike and a manual). Looking at the Shoei TZ-R helmet (found one online for $240). The JR Phoenix 4.0 or the Atomic 2.0 look about right. Will have to try them on for size/fit. I was also looking at the Phoenix/Atomic gloves as well. Gloves are easy to find in my size (XL), but jackets are another story (3XL Tall).


Looks like I'll be pulling the carburetors anyway. There is fuel leaking, though I cannot identify the source yet.

Robert
The source is the gas tank. where the leak is????

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
FOG said:
The source is the gas tank. where the leak is????

FOG
Okay, the source of the fuel is the tank, but the tank itself is not leaking. Haven't had a chance to look in decent light, but fuel is dripping off the bottom of the carburetors towards the rear of the bike. The previous owner stated he "cleaned up" the carburetors, so it could be as simple as a gasket or a screw. the idle adjustment screw is bent as well, so I may have caused the leak when adjusting the idle. I am ordering rebuild kits for the carburetors and will order a new adjustment screw as well. Need to straighten up my work area before I pull everything apart.

Robert
 

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Robert ,Robert,, The Leak is the carb float bows overfilling. Your previour owner (Shmuck) Shmucked up the carbs by not cleaning out the fuel line to the carbs from the tank. You probably don't need anything new , Well an in line fuel filter. Back flush the gas line back to the tank. I got a quater that says there is a little slice of rubber in there, the er... Shmuck sheared off the inside of the fuel line.
Flush it over a clean piece of paper to see.

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
FOG, I figured the previous owner mucked things up a bit. The carbs are really clean on the bottom (both bowls) from

the fuel that leaked. They are already out and sitting on my workbench waiting for the rebuild kits to come in. At 15 years old, they are probably due for a rebuild anyway, plus I am assuming the o-rings/gaskets are chewed-up as well. The fuel line is new, since the old one was cracked. Standard 5/16" fuel line, but I hadn't thought about a shaving getting in there. Will double check it.

I did clean the tank filter, and an inline filter will go on with the rebuild. As for the bent adjustment screw, bent it back, problem solved. Besides, so for (including the rebuild kits) I'm only into this bike for $430.

Is there anything special/quirky about these carburetors? I've done a handful of Solex single barrel VW carbs and a couple of Webber two barrel sidedrafts, but never a motorcycle carb. In any event, it's been a while since I've done those.

Robert
 

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Nothing whatever. They are a simple is sh.. Just be sure to remove the pilot jets and look through them. Not the main next to them down in the hole.

FOG
 
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