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Discussion Starter #1
Today I was doing some winterizing, which included an oil change on the EX. Plug bolt came out fine, oil filter off, new one on fine. When putting the bolt back in though, I noticed that it wasn't getting tight - tightest it would go is finger-tight. I took the bolt out, and there are loose metal shavings in the threads. The threads of the bolt are A-OK, so it's the threads in the hole that seem to be borked. I put the bolt in, as tight as it'll go. Filled it with oil, and there's a slow leak. When it gets warm, or if there are vibrations from running the engine I imagine it'll run like a seive.

I'm wondering what the options are for fixing this problem? What can I expect to hear from a bike shop if I call around?

Thank you in advance for your input,

-kwont
 

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you can use a heli-coil kit on it if I'm not mistaken. basically drill and re-tap it.
OR you can buy a new oil pan-
I happen to have a spare I pulled off my parts motor before I junked it
 

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You have a few options here. First thing you need to do is to examine the threads to see the extent of damage.
1) If the threads are slightly crossing you can try a Thread Restorer >>>LINK<<<

2)use the heli coil repair kit

3)Re-tap with an oversize tap

4)Buy a new oil pan


Good Luck!

**Mod note: Fixed link size**[/color]
 

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I plan on doing a photo tutorial write up on repairing damaged oil pan threads soon... got another 1000 miles to go untill the plug needs to come out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I ended up drilling and tapping the plug.

The most annoying part about the entire process was tracking down a 14mmx1.5 tap. Any industrial sort of tool place will have them, do-it-yourself sorts of stores probably won't.

Necessary tools & parts:
1/2" metal drill bit
14mmX1.5 tap
metric socket set
pliers
M14x1.5 drain plug
5/8" crush washer
oil pan gasket

Handy tools:
rubber mallet
metric combination wrenches
3/8" torque wrench
1/2" torque wrench
Drill press
C-clamps
parts bath
razor blade
Friend to help putting exhaust back on

You may or may not need to replace the gaskets for the exhaust - my exhaust gaskets didn't need replacing.

To get the oil pan off, you need to remove the exhaust. Removing the radiator will make life a little bit easier, but it isn't necessary (and I didn't do it) - it just makes it a bit harder to remove the right side exhaust. Removing the exhaust is easy. Two nuts on each pipe at the cylinder, one nut to loosen on the crossover under the oil pan, and the nut/bolt on each side holding the exhaust to the rear footpeg mount. It might take a little wiggling to get the right and left side apart.

Oil pan is 8mm bolts, and the screw holding the wire to the oil pressure switch. Remove all the bolts (keeping track of which bolt goes where is recommended, even though they're all the same size), and the oil pressure switch wire. It may take a few taps with a mallet to get the pan off. Once the pan is off, I used a razor to carefully remove the gasket bits from the case and oil pan.

A small pipe may come with the oil pan, if it does you'll need to put it back in before putting the oil pan back on. Wiggle under and look up, it's obvious where it goes and it'll stay there fairly well if the o-ring is in good shape (which it should be).

I got the drain hole lined up as best I could on the drill press, and clamped it upside-down to the press table. There isn't a lot of meat to the drain, so getting it centered is relatively important. Drilled the hole, and called it good. I also used the drill press and manually turned it to start the tap, just to be sure it got started straight. Once the tap is done, I tossed the oil pan in the bath/cleaner and made sure I got all the metal filings out. While it was there I also cleaned off the crap that had built up on the outside of the oil pan.

Putting the oil pan back on with the new gasket, I finger-tighted them first. Then did 8Nm (about 70 in.lbs) in an order which spread out pressure on the new gasket. If they were numbered clockwise 1 through 10, something like 1-6-3-8-2-7-5-10-4-9. I went around in the same order and finished them off to 12Nm (104 in.lbs) as my Haynes manual suggested. Re-attach the oil pressure switch wire, and put in the new oil plug and crush washer. Because the new 14mm plug has a different thread area (about 15% more) than the old 12mm plug, you probably don't need as much torque on the oil plug, but just for good measure I tightened it to 29Nm (22 ft.lbs) as suggested by the Haynes manual.

The exhaust is straightforward for putting back on, but having a second set of hands would have been very helpful. It would also have been a little easier if I had removed the radiator like Haynes told me to. I couldn't find ANY torque values for the exhaust in the manual, so I used 12Nm connecting to the cylinder (that's what it is for my yzf600), about the same for the crossover clamp, and 18Nm for the footpeg and exhaust mounts.

With everything re-assembled, fill with oil and away you go.
 

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Hmm.....

I changed my oil the other day and used a new crush washer and tightened to 22 ft lbs. I do see a drop of oil under the bike right under the oil drain plug about the size of a quarter. Its not a serious leak because its been sitting for a few days. It was a bit stubborn breaking loose so it must have been overtightened at the factory.

A friend of mine uses a special washer with a little rubber gasket going around the base and its reusable. He goes finger tight and then 1/4 to 1/2 turn to seat the rubber seal and then he is good. Never has a leak even if the threads are bit stretched!! I will ask him where he gets these at.
 

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I am doing the same repair to my bike this weekend, thanks for the write and torque specs. I didn't think the manual would have been so detailed for those specs. I think I might go out and buy it now.
 
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