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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. Since I am waiting for parts, I figured I'd try to salvage my faring. At some point in time the bike was dropped (several times by the looks of things), and a previous owner blobbed some goo to repair (hide) the cracks, completing the look with several thick layers of yellow and black paint.

Anyway, on to the question, how does one remove layers of paint? Is there a chemical stripper that will work, ,or am I just going to have to sand it off? I need to get down to bare ABS in order to use ABS solvent/cement to make repairs before painting (if I can get it looking decent enough, otherwise I'll be looking for advice on handlebar/headlight mounts for a naked/streetfighter look. That and how to mount the speedometer/tachometer.

Robert
 

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dragknee said:
yeah there is a flexible bumper plastic paint stripper that works rather well... i think its called bulldog.
I've used it on car bumpers and bike parts and it works decent.
 

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I"ve just always used really coarse sandpaper. on metal, and fiberglass I've used paint stripper with a lot of success.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, no one has Bulldog (or any other safe on plastic stripper). I did find some citrus stuff that said it could be used on some plastics, but to test on an inconspicuous spot first. Tested, it doesn't seem to harm the ABS, but it doesn't work all that well either. My faring does have at least eight coats of paint on it though. So far I have one side stripped down. Used the chemical stripper, then used one of those 3M paint stripper/grinder wheels in my drill. I think the other side will be with just the drill/3M wheel. I could order the bulldog stuff, but I don't think it would be worth the wait.

On a separate note, the ABS solvent/cement works really well at patching/repairing cracks. Now I just need to find something to fill in the turn signal holes (someone drilled out the opening for some cheesy looking flushmounts). ::) Will likely go the flushmount route too, just not like thew ones on it now (well, on the workbench).

Robert
 

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FYI when i bought bulldog, i had to go to a PPG auto body paint store. wal mart and stuff like that didnt have it :(

its made by a company called Klean-Strip

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
dragknee, I checked the Klean-Strip website, they don't have it listed. I will be checking out the PPG auto paint shops in the area though, still have the plastic on the back end to strip.

Currently, the fairing is down to the plastic. It's kind of fugly, but will come out when I sand. Been making repairs (who knew thick paint and Bondo would be holding the thing together) with ABS cement/solvent. Seems to be working, the crack in the lower headlight surround and my the left side mirror is done. The chunk below the left side turn signal (where someone had drilled the thing out and, oops, broke the piece off) is setting up right now. Should have taken some before pics (after stripping/before repairs) to show everyone.

Robert
 

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weird. i just checked their site too and didnt see it either.

if you do an ebay search for bulldog stripper, it shows up in the bottom under the stores. in fact, that exactly what my can looked like, it wasnt yellow like the other one posted above.

when you do call the auto body store, if they dont have bulldog specifically, ask them for a flexible bumper paint stripper :)
 

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As mentioned above, Bulldog is the normal stripper I have seen at auto body supply stores. Works fine and won't melt your plastic. You can also get it, at the Eastwood Supply Company website. I am sure that any stripper that is specified for plastic (flexible bumpers) will work just as well. (On metal and wood I use aircraft stripper, but I am afraid to try it on plastic).

If you have lots of paint, you can DA a few layers off, but I think the stripper is easier and less time in the long runs since you won't have to be sanding your parts forever to get all of the scratches out. It usually takes two applications, you can let it sit on for awhile and let it do the work for you.

As for filling in holes, just use other plastic and glue it or plastic weld it over the holes. Good luck, I know it is a PITA when your stuff has been messed up by the "PO"!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Tried the auto parts stores in the area (Autozone, Pep Boys and Schucks), none had any flexible bumper stripper. The orange stuff I found works okay, but it was easier to just use the sanding disk. I'll get to actual sanding tomorrow with a power sander. I have a bunch of disks for it that I got for free, and plenty of time (teacher on summer break). The guy I bought it from didn't do anything to it except park it in the garage with a half tank of gas for six months and then "clean out" the carbs. But the kid he bought it from used it as a learning experience, both to ride and for bodywork. The Bondo, fiberglass patch and mystery filler (it was gray) was everywhere, holding the thing together with the thick black and yellow paint. I'm okay with black, except we're in the desert, but the yellow had to go. Besides, there were runs all over the place on the faring.

Robert
 

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I would personally never strip down any items unless the previous refinishing was an issue and would lead to loss of a professional finish in the future. If it is a metal part fine but I have seen many do it your selfer jobs go bad because someone felt that they had to strip something down for some reason in order to do it properly. Many times this is simply not the case. If the foundation is a quality paint job and not alot of cracking has occurred you would more than likely be ok with just a quality sanding.
Rod
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Rod, I hear you, but the paint was cracked (and pealing in places) and the ABS needed repairs (couple of chunks broken off and more cracks than I could count). There seemed to be a decent primer coat under the (then current) finish coat, but the finish coat was pealing and cracked. There was also bondo everywhere that I repaired with ABS cement.

Oh, there were at least nine coats of paint, including the original red/white scheme. Someone covered that with several tries at yellow (with primer coats between) then yellow and black.

Currently, it is rough sanded (120 grit) bare ABS (have done everything but the tank and front fender), though I am still working on filling the turn sigal indention (the holes are filed, just bringing it level with the surrounding area). It's going to get a rattle can paint job (it's budget bike, so far I'm in for just under $600, including a Shoei TZ-R, gloves and a jacket :) I expect to get everything done for around $750).

Robert
 

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Wow 9 freakin coats of paint. That is insane. I see where you are coming from wanting to strip and refinish it now. It sounds like we are on similar budgets with our bikes too so I know where you are coming from. Without properly explaining myself in the previous response. I guess I should have said that I have had and have seen many plastic stripping jobs turn from bad to worse with the use of a stripping chemical. I prefer to use the coarse sanding to strip the parts keeping in mind not to badly scar the plastic underneath . Although at times it may seem to take longer I still prefer it.
As for the rattle can paint job, I have done and seen a few that people could not believe came from a can they looked so good. best of luck and show us some pics of the process if you get a chance.
Rod
 
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