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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have got my bike re-assembled after Kreeming the tank and it's up & running.
The tank had water in it, and was pretty badly rusted so that's why it wouldn't run!

It seems to be running pretty well, except that above 3500-4000 at a steady rpm it seems to stumble a little bit. Power overall doesn't seem to be too bad as I'm still able to pull away pretty well from my cousin on his shadow 600 with supercharger but when running at a steady rpm it still seems to stumble just a little bit.

I'm going to go out on a limb and say that I think that my pilots are ok but that one of my main jets is dirty.

I've never had the carbs off the bike myself, so I'm looking for tips as to how to get them out of there. With the prevalence of how often stuff comes up like this i'm thinking that someone (maybe me?) needs to do a step by step with some pix as to how to clean your carbs.

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Float valves are leaking and the engine is flooding. Fix it


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I adjusted the pilot jets on my '05 a couple weeks ago.
Not having a dremel w/ 90 degree drill, and wanting to see how things were assembled anyway, I had to get the carbs loose from their rubbery tubes to get to them.

If I leave out any steps or am using the wrong terms let me know.

PREPARE Along w basic tools, rags & good lighting...
If you don't have a fuel filter installed, buy one ahead of time.
Have the air filter cleaner, or new oiled filter, ready too.
Have some distilled water handy to top off the battery.
It's a little easier if the gas tank is low on fuel.
Maybe some Saran Wrap or rags to keep junk from falling into the carbs once they're loose.
Some type of multi-compartment box helps keep track of the fasteners.

Remove seat.
Remove side panels, and the covers on both sides of the airbox (4 screws each).
Note where the electrical cables & vent tubes are located
(assuming that they are in the right place)
Remove electrical box over the the battery.
Disconnect battery cables & remove battery.
Fill cells to top mark w/ distilled water.
Rock it carefully to mix the water w/ the acid.

Make sure the petcock is OFF.
Remove L & R fairing-to-gas tank screws.
Disconnect 2 hoses on right front of gas tank.
Remove bolt from rear of gas tank. Lift the rear & pull the tank back from its mount.
Disconnect the 2 rubber tubes from the petcock & set the tank on some rags or cardboard
so it doesn't get scratched up.

Remove the rear gas tank mount.... 4 hex head bolts, to expose the top of the airbox.
Remove 4 shiny phillips head screws to the air filter cover.

There's a dark tube running from the top of the engine into the airbox. Gently pull it out of there.
Find the spring-rings (?) that attach the air box to the two carbs.
Just roll them off rearward & pull the big tubes loose.
The right side was real snug w/ the bottom of the carb opening (rubber elbow on airbox)

I weaseled the airbox upwards in front for more space... might not be necessary.
If you do it, when you put it back together, be sure to reattach the rubber elbow, at the
bottom of the airbox, back to the engine.

Loosen the two hose-clamps that hold the carbs to the engine & wiggle the carbs loose.
The carbs are still attached to each other w/ a little plate, & to the throttle & choke cables too.
I did not disconnect any of those for the pilot screw mod.
I covered the carb openings (fuel/vent hoses) & drilled out the screw covers.
They must be aluminum or very soft steel.
Both of the pilot screws only went in about 3/4 of a turn to seat them.
Unscrewed them 2.5 turns.

Put it back together in reverse order...
Make sure the F & R tubes on both carbs are sealed all the way around.
Clean or replace the airfilter before you reassemble the airbox.
Install the gas filter before the fuel tank goes back on.
Might as well check the rear brake fluid before the side pieces go back on.

That's the only time I've done that, & am writing from memory... so hope folks will let me know what I left off & such.
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