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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First post, I hate to bother guys but Im really stumped on this one. You all are most likely much more informed on these ex's than me. I ride the bigger bikes, the 7r and 9r, however i dont have much knowledge on the 500r's. So here goes the issue at hand, I friend swings by my house on his ex500 D1(I think) he says the clutch is dragging bad. I rode it, hes correct; it drags BAD. Now he rides the bike everyday, rain, snow or shine. So it hasnt been sitting nor has he crashed it. My p4 7R uses a hydraulic clutch setup, and my E1 9R uses cable and have rebuilt both of their clutches. so I have expeerience playing with both types of kawi clutches which is why he came to me, but alas it has me stumped.
Things we've done to try to sort it.
Thinking it could be a matter of adjustment, we went to both extremes, no adjustments change it.
New clutch cable as well as a perch and lever. Along with a new arm/rod that goes through the sidecover that your cable hooks too to actuate said clutch.
Changed oil and filter to some nice mobil 1 full synth bike 10w40.
The good old stuck clutch plate routine, put the front tire against a wall, pull the clutch in and kick it into first gear with plenty of revs to break it free, to no avail. Still dragging.
New OEM frction and steels, along with measuring the stack height, its perfect. Soadked the frictions and steels in oil for an entire week before install too.
Inspexcted basket for grooves, none were deep but filed them anyways. its perfect.
Now after reassembly, you can pull the clutch in and reach in through the oil fill hole and move the plates with your finger, so the clutch is actuating and working to compress and release the plates.
After all this, it still drags. Just as bad as before.
Also one more super weird thing, if you hold the brakes(to keep the bike from moving) pull the clutch in and put it in gear, the oil light comes on even if you rev it a little, we noticed while trying to do the old school stuck plates routine except it would only come on at near stalling around 300 rpm. In neutral idling or reving, no oil light, but now as soon as you put the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in and brakes to keep the bike from moving, boom oil light on. I thought it was initially because the drag was lugging the engine down, but it even does it if you give it some revs to bring the rpm up. I dont know if the clutch drag has anything to do with this, but owner said the whole oil light thing and the clutch happened at once it just recently progressed to where it now comes on anytime you put it into gear.
Now this guy takes care of his machine, he keeps good oil and fresh oil in it at all times, never ever has he skimped on changes, He changes it about every 1k miles(a waste of oil I know). So the inside of this engine is so clean you can eat off of it. Which is why I stumped at this point. I feel like Ive covered all the bases up to this point. Is there a bearing somewhere that could be seized or something seized that I havent got to just yet? This all happened while he was out riding, Clutch does not slip a single bit it just drags with the lever pulled in, really bad liek to the point of once you get moving you cannot shift gears the gear, lever is super hard, it almost feels as if the clutch is not even pulled in even though you are off the gas with the lever pulled back to the bar with no slack in the cable whatsoever. Im stumped boys. Just know we havent been riding the bike at all with the whole oil light situation. Wanted some pro opinions here on the forums first.
 

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#1 get rid of tha fancy oil ,use plain ol Dino stuff
#2 have a look at the clutch basket were the plate dogs run in the slots , look fur wear that is preventing the plates mpving

Fog
 

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Discussion Starter #3
#1 get rid of tha fancy oil ,use plain ol Dino stuff
#2 have a look at the clutch basket were the plate dogs run in the slots , look fur wear that is preventing the plates mpving

Fog
Will do Fog, appreciate the reply, I'm pulling my hair out. There were some grooves in the basket fingers originally but I filed them all nice and smooth. You can slide the plates back and forth with ease by hand. They all slide smoothly. Also, when you pull the clutch lever back, you can take a finger through the oil fill hole on the side cover and move the plates freely, so they are free when the clutch is pulled. I thought they were hanging up which is why I filed the basket fingers smooth. Still doing the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Will do Fog, appreciate the reply, I'm pulling my hair out. There were some grooves in the basket fingers originally but I filed them all nice and smooth. You can slide the plates back and forth with ease by hand. They all slide smoothly. Also, when you pull the clutch lever back, you can take a finger through the oil fill hole on the side cover and move the plates freely, so they are free when the clutch is pulled. I thought they were hanging up which is why I filed the basket fingers smooth. Still doing the same thing.
Also, we went and got some conventional 10w40 bike oil, didnt make a lick of difference so far.
 

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hi. just a stupid one to throw into the mix. have you made sure the bearing behind the centre boss is free with the plates out . and the parts are free to move there is a lot of stuff behind the boss that could make to two parts stiff would be like the clutch isn't releasing. just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
hi. just a stupid one to throw into the mix. have you made sure the bearing behind the centre boss is free with the plates out . and the parts are free to move there is a lot of stuff behind the boss that could make to two parts stiff would be like the clutch isn't releasing. just a thought.
Not stupid at all my friend, hell any advice is advice that I super appreciate. By center boss you mean the part that has the bearing in the middle and your clutch springs sit into? Yes, we replaced that bearing too. Now you might be onto something here. Am I supposed to be able to spin the basket or the center of the basket with the plates out? Cause without the plates in there, I couldnt spin anything. Not the actual basket, not the inside of the basket(part that has all the teeth that your steels lock onto). No parts spun freely in there. However I did bump the starter without the plates in and the whole thing turned. The outer basket and the inner part, both spun together, with no plates in there. Are any parts of it supposed to be "free" with no plates in it? Pic incoming if it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
hi. just a stupid one to throw into the mix. have you made sure the bearing behind the centre boss is free with the plates out . and the parts are free to move there is a lot of stuff behind the boss that could make to two parts stiff would be like the clutch isn't releasing. just a thought.
51812

Neither of the ones circled would move with the plates out, or to put it better I couldnt spin either of them with my hand. But if I bumped the starter they both would turn. I don't know if that helps but trying to give you guys all the info I can.
 

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You probably would have already mentioned it if you had noticed. But I'm going to ask any way.

Did you notice any rubbing damage on the inside of the clutch cover in the center area that has the shiny spot in the pic?
 

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hi. I said stupid as I imagined you would have made sure that the centre boss (with teeth on) spins free without the plates in. now with your answer I am not so sure. the inner boss. is connected to the gearbox input shaft this should spin free without the plates while the gearbox is in neutral. if the bike is on the centre stand popping it in 1st you should be able to spin the rear wheel the gearbox And the centre boss. without it trying to move the outer basket, which of course is connected to the engine via the primary chain.
if both these parts are moving together (ie at the same time) that may be your answer. if they are not free to move independently how is the clutch going to work.
if you have had the centre boss off it could be assembled incorrectly or some other part damaged. either way the centre part of the clutch must be free from the outer part. if they are not free it is why you have no clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
You probably would have already mentioned it if you had noticed. But I'm going to ask any way.

Did you notice any rubbing damage on the inside of the clutch cover in the center area that has the shiny spot in the pic?
Didnt notice any rubbing on the cover anywhere. Good looking out though. If there was rubbing what would be the cause? Ill have my friend look the cover over very closely and send pics if he sees any rubbing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
hi. I said stupid as I imagined you would have made sure that the centre boss (with teeth on) spins free without the plates in. now with your answer I am not so sure. the inner boss. is connected to the gearbox input shaft this should spin free without the plates while the gearbox is in neutral. if the bike is on the centre stand popping it in 1st you should be able to spin the rear wheel the gearbox And the centre boss. without it trying to move the outer basket, which of course is connected to the engine via the primary chain.
if both these parts are moving together (ie at the same time) that may be your answer. if they are not free to move independently how is the clutch going to work.
if you have had the centre boss off it could be assembled incorrectly or some other part damaged. either way the centre part of the clutch must be free from the outer part. if they are not free it is why you have no clutch.
Wow, well we have not had the center boss out at all. I was pretty sure that was supposed to move independently. Buddy assured me that it was most likely different from my bikes. I will have to pull the center off tonight and check in behind it to see if I can see any rubbing or marring. I know the nut that holds it in place is probably going to be a bugger to remove. I will check it over tonight or tomorrow and post updates.
 

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Agree with Yorkie: Inner hub should turn.
Remove nut using 3/8" air ratchet, no problem. Check to see if washer is still there and correct, then check every other little piece in there.
Something is causing the inner hub to bind.
 
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