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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Removed the head from my 500. 2 of the 8 bolts (A and D), outboard on the left side, were fully wet with oil and the other 6 were dry.
Does anyone know what this means? Leaking head or base gasket?
Thanks in advance.
 

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Moderating: Fair & Just
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I'm curious as to what led you to remove the head to begin with?
Lapping the head to repair a head gasket
Do you have a service manual? Showing the torque values/torque value steps, torque pattern.
 

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You had a dowel pin that was MIA? Did you have the spark plugs out before you removed the valve cover? Could have stuck a magnet down into the cylinder through the plug hole I guess, or a mine flash light. I glue them in to the head and take the valve cover off with the gasket attached to the cover, when I re-install, I just float it on and worry about the half moons lining up, and all the edges sitting pretty. What does not kill you makes you stronger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I tried to get it out with a magnet for a few hours. It would pull up into the spark plug hole and the threads would pull it off the magnet every time. Stupid thing wouldn’t sit on the magnet vertically, only sideways and the length of the pin was greater than the diameter of the spark plug hole. Borescope made the valves look a little beat up so I decided to pull the head to a) better inspect the valves and b) retrieve the pin.
Anyways, stupid move. Then, when I removed the 8 bolts that hold the head on, the 2 outward bolts on the left side were wet with oil.
The other 6 were dry. I think that the design is such that all 8 should be dry.
I’m wondering if the presence of the oil on these bolts tells me something about the head or base gasket.
 

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Be sure and check out the link in post #4.
We hear of lost dowel pins all the time, but you may be the first one to get a hole-in-one straight into the cylinder. I don't think you could do that twice if you tried. :oops:
 

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Be sure and check out the link in post #4.
We hear of lost dowel pins all the time, but you may be the first one to get a hole-in-one straight into the cylinder. I don't think you could do that twice if you tried. :oops:
yeah true they usually go down the timing chain slot much easier to retrieve, now you are going to have to remove the barrels anyway to lap the head surface so might as well service the whole lot while there off. like @ridervfr I permanently affix the dowels to the head, pinch one end with pliers add some thread lock to it and tap back in place. no worries next time the lid comes off. don't forget to remove the CCT and reset it before install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, I’ve gone from adjusting the valves to a top end rebuild! I pulled the cylinders out. ( I did remove the CCT before I pulled the heads-thanks Yorker!). The cylinders and heads have warped as expected. As best I can tell, the head gasket failed -or better stated-the gap between the cylinder/gasket/head became large enough for oil to seep into the 2 outboard left side bolt holes. That’s the side with the kick stand so gravity assisted oil flow. I believe this is how I was losing almost a quart of oil every 1000 miles. I was probably only a few hundred miles from hot gases making their way into the coolant system and the problems many have seen from that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Now, if y’all wouldn’t mind helping figure out what i should be doing while I’m into the engine this far. I’m thinking:
Lap head and cylinder surfaces, etc. per FOG
Lap valves
Replace valve seals
New water pump gasket

What other stuff would you recommend?
Rings?
 

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the amount of work you now do would depend on the size of your toolbox and it's contents so to speak, engine work can get very involved and require special tools to complete. (Engineering stuff) apart from what you listed check for bore wear/piston ring gap and rebuild it with minimal fuss.

it's a pity you didn't do a "I have lost a dowel pin down my plug hole thread) there are several ways to get them out without taking the heads off. like using a chopstick/BBQ stick with PTFE tape wrapped around the end poke around with a probe to stand the pin upright (on top of the piston) and push the stick in the open-end tape holds it to the stick and it comes right out, I once lost a 6mm nut down one of mine and it's how I got that out.
 

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Everything happens for a reason. Had you not lost the dowel, the engine would have eventualy overheated at the worst time. Now, you can have confidence that it is right.
 
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I like using bamboo chop sticks, I have some of these plastic (robust) pry bars back from my days on the trains. We used to use them to replace window gaskets when bastards broke them.

I would replace the base gasket with a new one and might as well replace the head gasket along with having the head done and the cylinder. My machine work on my engine was 100 dollars about 3 years ago>? I know there are people that say you can repaint the gasket, I just go with new though. Also, the torque for the heads should go 5 or so ft higher than the manual requires as per FOGs recommendation. Nice picture of the piston by the way. Oh, I did a diggle hone on my cylinder to break any glaze and re-installed it on the pistons. Bike runs great, never uses oil between changes (2000 miles or a year) and hit 130 mph once, (not down hill I swear) enjoy the journey. Peace
 
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