Time to Paint!

5483 Views 40 Replies 19 Participants Last post by tokomiko, May 11, 2009

G

Discussion Starter · Nov 16, 2006

Hello everyone!
I have a 1990 EX500 and the amount of scratches is driving me crazy. So I decided to paint it.

I have an automotive paint gun and one of those huge compressors.
I have pulled off all of the fenders and plastic parts, pretty much anything that had any color on it.

To get the front wheel plastic thing off I had to remove the wheel (Will I have to align or something?)

The only thing I don't know how to do now is, paint.
Is there a guide somewhere?

I have to paint myself, I am broke. My friend is letting me use his paints and his garage.
So does anyone know of any really detailed guides for painting? I assume that I have to use paint thinner to remove that paint from all the parts, I am gonna start that tomarrow.

Thanks!

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MrSciTrek

· #2 · Nov 16, 2006

I just tried Googling "How to Paint motorcycles" & got several references for manuals & books. No clean site popped up, but a better-worded search could do it.

Maybe the local library has such a book, or call the local community college body shop program.

OK, I just tried www.ask.com & typed in the same thing.
http://www.warkshop.com/paint1.html
http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_paintin.htm
http://www.learnairbrush.com/

Let us know which works best, or if you find a better one... and how it all turns out.

G

Discussion Starter · #3 · Nov 16, 2006

Yah i've been through those.. Thanks though.

But I am talking to a guy on IRC who recommended this site:
http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm

It's for a GS. I don't know if everything in the guide is safe or even the right thing but I think I'll give it a try.
Any input on this page is appreciated.

G

Discussion Starter · #4 · Nov 16, 2006

I'm no paint expert, but it looks pretty complete. I'll try to pass it along to acouple people on another board I frequent who are self-proclaimed paint experts.

Dawg

· #5 · Nov 16, 2006

Having Spray Bombed (aka paint can) a few things i can tell ya not to really worry.. If you mess up.. wait let it dry then sand it down and try again..

secondly..less paint and more passes is always the best way to go saves on runs and the like..

really theres not much to "SAY" to someone about to try it.. other then go for it.. and post some pics of the end result.

Good luck

G

Discussion Starter · #6 · Nov 18, 2006

Does anyone know if I can use any paint stripper on the plastic parts?

bastard child

· #7 · Nov 18, 2006

I'm in the process of preping my 01 for a new look. I'm just using an airbrush with the airbrush auto paints and clears. for the stripping process i used a palm sander with 60 grit then primed it up and sanded it smooth with 150 grit. and scratches can be easliy filled with body filler. If there's any crack fiberglass on the inside, then body filler the outside sand smooth and your good to go. I'll be posting pics of the finished product when i get her done and rollin again.

G

Discussion Starter · #8 · Nov 19, 2006

Wow 60 grit?! All this time I've been sanding with 400!!

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Nick D

· #9 · Nov 19, 2006

GMR_RUNNER said:
Does anyone know if I can use any paint stripper on the plastic parts?

I'd bet the back of the can of stripper knows. I'd lean towards no, though.

G

Discussion Starter · #10 · Nov 22, 2006

Just an update.
I've been sanding away with 80 grit sand paper using a vibrating sander and my hands and have only finished the two side panels. :-[

I have been talking to some people about chemical ways to remove paint and the only consistent solution recommend by them was dot-3 brake fluid.
As of now I do not recommend using this on the plastic or metal parts. After school tomorrow I will be testing a hand-full of of cleaners to see which ones work best without damaging the plastics.
I will post my results here when I am finished.

Things I will be testing on both metal and plastic parts:
Brake Fluid
Easy Off Oven Cleaner
Simple Green
Castrol Super Clean Degreaser[/color] -Seems wonderful Calfironia has deemed this stuff harmful to the environment. So I will be using Purple Power[/color] Instead.

In the mean time, here's a site to look over for those who also want to dive into the unknown.

http://www.bonediggers.com/1-3/strip/strip.html

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G

Discussion Starter · #11 · Nov 27, 2006

RESULTS! RESULTS! RESULTS! RESULTS! [/color]

Well, I gave each product roughly 24 hours to do it's thing.
I tested two part of the motorcycle

The Rear Grab-Rail (Metal)
And the front wheel fender (plastic)

And here are my findings:

> Purple Power[/color] -- Did absolutely nothing to the paint. But it did make my hands burn!
> Easy Off Oven Cleaner[/color] -- Also did nothing to help paint removal. But it had the best smell by far!
> Simple Green[/color] -- Well it did remove the dirt and grease! But as far as paint goes, it didn't seem to work either.
> Brake Fluid[/color] -- Well this is the only thing that gave results. But not the kind I was looking for...

The brake fluid, while it did give results, did not work as I had imagined. There was no "stripping" effect. Instead it softened the paint. Which in-turn made sanding a hospitable process.
But in no way did any of the products give a "stripping" effect in which paint would be gently brushed away. Commercial grade paint stripper might remove the paint in the fashion I imagined, but there is speculation that it could also "strip" the plastic too. Paint stripper on metal is OK, but I would not recommend, nor would I even test, putting paint stripper on any plastic parts.

Those are my findings.
It looks like I have more sanding to do.

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Nick D

· #12 · Nov 27, 2006

You didn't actually try stripper? That'd be my first route. I hear that "Aircraft Paint Remover" is the stuff to go with in most instances, it's what I'm going to try. I've got some busted and rashed plastics from our old f4. If I can find a throwaway part I'll do a little testing when I get time. I tried to pick up some of that stripper this weekend but nowhere I went had it out. Guess I'll have to stop at a parts store one day.

fog

· #13 · Nov 27, 2006

Your far better off not stripping. Just sand fill or prime as required then paint over whats there. If your talking Factory paint you could never achieve as good a bond. So leave it.

FOG

G

Discussion Starter · #14 · Nov 27, 2006

Hmm, I don't know if I fully understand.
Should I be sanding down all of the paint or just rough it up?

I was going to remove all the paint and primer (Factory coats), then spray some primer then my paint, then a clearcoat.

Nick D

· #15 · Nov 27, 2006

GMR_RUNNER said:
Hmm, I don't know if I fully understand.
Should I be sanding down all of the paint or just rough it up?

I was going to remove all the paint and primer (Factory coats), then spray some primer then my paint, then a clearcoat.

You can go all the way to metal on any metal parts, but you don't have to. With pretty much anything you can just clean it really well, rough it up so that the paint can stick, and slather on the paint. Really the only time you'll hit metal is on a raised edge (just be sure not to remove body lines) or when you're taking out a bad spot (like rust or heavy paint damage). I was getting the aircraft remover for my rims so I can get a head start, I just figured I'd test it because I could.

fog

· #16 · Nov 27, 2006

As I said above you'll never achieve as good a base as what's already there, us it. Use a fine filler like NitroStan for scratches, or one of the catalitic cured fillers (Bondo) for bigger stuff and small dents. Wet sand with a varity of papers but finish with somthing like 220 grit, no need to go to anything finer (see corn cob below) ( Test the surface before painting to be sure compatability with your new paint. Or Use a waterbased primer to get a uniform base color, Best for transparent colors. Water based primers will seal the existing surface and be compatable with any type of paint.
Most of the new two part paints (catalitic cured) like Dupont Imron (one of the most expensive) will cover a corn cob and make it shine. They also are extremlly hard to make run. Even if you do manage to make a run you can: really pour on the paint and let it flow onto the floor. Or drive the cure with heat and sand and repaint before the mix cures. OH yeah once this stuff is mixed you have a finite amount of time to use it or it will harden in even a covered jar. (dependant on temprature and amount, large amounts cure faster as heat builds up internally).

Go to a real Automotive paint supply house and talk to the man. These guy's really know what they are talking about.( nobody on this forum really does, including me). Don't pretend you know anything. Don't skimp, if the instructions say use thinner #12983brx buy it. In the end you will save money time and get a professional job.
Keep in mind the fact that a pro will charge at least $600 to just paint your parts if you bring them to him in good condition. (sanded and Primed).

FOG

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PontiacJack

· #17 · Nov 27, 2006

After working on a restoration "team" that put together three cars in 4 months, all I can tell you about paint prep is be prepaired to dedicate a lot of time. And be somewhat of a perfectionist, but screwing up a paint job because of poor paint prep, sucks, ... sucks a lot.

Paint strippers are messy... I would say stay away from them especially when you dealing with plastic. Nothing will beat old fashion elbow grease and a dust mask.

Oh yeah... and all that stuff FOG said ;D Really though paint shop guys are the best to talk to if you can get them to speak in laymans terms. I found a lot of professional auto painters to get into their explanations/stories and before I know it I find them a little to technical for me, but then again painting cars/motorcycle is a science/art in it's self.

G

Discussion Starter · #18 · Dec 15, 2006

Well I figured that since it's my first time painting I shouldn't complicate things by trying to mix my own paint. I settled for the paint-can's at Pep Boys. They seem to work well. I finished sanding about a week ago and just started painting today. It seems easy so far. I did get the runs in one spot but I figure a little delicate sanding and some primer should take care of that.

I actually had to stop sanding the tail section. I noticed that some of the sanding was still too rough so I went down to 600 grit on all the parts. Now everything looks very smooth. I am just waiting for the second coat to dry a little before I apply the third coat. I think i'll only put 3 coats of primer. I'm not sure about the base or clear coats. I was thinking 2 base coats and 2 clear coats. What do you guys think?

MrSciTrek

· #19 · Dec 15, 2006

GMR_RUNNER said:
Well I figured that since it's my first time painting I shouldn't complicate things by trying to mix my own paint. I settled for the paint-can's at Pep Boys. They seem to work well. I finished sanding about a week ago and just started painting today. It seems easy so far. I did get the runs in one spot but I figure a little delicate sanding and some primer should take care of that.

I actually had to stop sanding the tail section. I noticed that some of the sanding was still too rough so I went down to 600 grit on all the parts. Now everything looks very smooth. I am just waiting for the second coat to dry a little before I apply the third coat. I think i'll only put 3 coats of primer. I'm not sure about the base or clear coats. I was thinking 2 base coats and 2 clear coats. What do you guys think?

Not speaking from personal experience, but I've read where several thinner coats w/ good drying time is better than fewer thick coats. I suppose the manufacturer would find it in his best interests to give worthy directions on the can. ??

G

Discussion Starter · #20 · Jan 25, 2007

3

I know it's been awhile, but here's finished product. I completed it on Christmas eve and me and my dad went on a christmass day ride. It was great!

I didn't think it would come out that great, but I proved myself wrong. Overall, this has been the hardest task on this bike.

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