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Discussion Starter #1
Tackled this after work. Pretty straightforward as long as you stay organized.
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Engine out of the frame


1st half of the water pump cover off


Impeller off.


Here is where the starter motor was. Need to remove to get to some more bolts-


Removed all the case bolts from the top- then flipped the motor over to get the ones on the bottom


Oil pan removed to get to the last 4 bolts holding the cases together-


Split the case and there it is- lift out old transmission. Drop in new.



Then put it all back together. Fog recommended that I practice putting the bottom case back on before applying the sealant and it definitely is the best way to go to make sure you get everything all lined up.
Next step is to put the motor back in the frame.
 

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Thanks for taking & sharing the pics.
Large color images are much better than the repair book small, black & whites.

This is a good time for repainting, or at least touch-ups. Y'gonna?
 

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While you have the engine out .Change the left front motor mount , te rubber on the flanges is all broken down.

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #4
good eye Fog! there are some new parts on the way. Motor mounts will be included.
 

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MrSciTrek said:
Thanks for taking & sharing the pics.
Large color images are much better than the repair book small, black & whites.

This is a good time for repainting, or at least touch-ups. Y'gonna?
i may do some touch up, but not a priority.
 

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With a solid mount some of the forces in the frame can be transmitted to the engine. The engine is the strongest "thing" in a motorcycle. With solid mounts the engine becomes part of the frame, making the frame MUCH more rigid.
This rigidity makes the bike more stable entering and exiting corners.
EX frames are made from an alloy of peanut butter and playdough and need all the help they can get.

Using the engine as a structural member was taken to an art form by Ducati.
 

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BRG makes them.
I had mine made custom. If you have access to a lathe, and know how to drive it, they're simple to make. Just bushings.
The ones I have at the moment are aluminum, but I have made them from REAL hard plastic too. I put a shaped 10mm thick washer on the inside to give the nut a flat surface to mount to. BRG doesn't.
While you are ordering parts from BRG, get the frame tie together kit also. It will add rigidity to that removeable section of the frame. (or make your own. Again it is simple).

Weld in a couple of plates across the top, one by the steering head and one on either side of the swing arm pivot and that is about as rigid as it is going to get.
 

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Mr. Mc Biggity,

I can make you a set. FOr say $30 for just the front less the bolts. and 45 for all four. angain less the bolts. The rear stock bolts are OK in the front you need new ones. I don't have a good source for them so I have to pay retail. You can do as good. They will be 3/8 dia. holes, for easier to find fractional bolts Or 10mm if you wish.
PM me.
To all, I'm looking for a little part time business for my Machine shop. Things like dogbones and Solid mounts are just right. Let me know if your interested.

FOG
 

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FOG said:
Mr. Mc Biggity,

I can make you a set. FOr say $30 for just the front less the bolts. and 45 for all four. angain less the bolts. The rear stock bolts are OK in the front you need new ones. I don't have a good source for them so I have to pay retail. You can do as good. They will be 3/8 dia. holes, for easier to find fractional bolts Or 10mm if you wish.
PM me.
To all, I'm looking for a little part time business for my Machine shop. Things like dogbones and Solid mounts are just right. Let me know if your interested.

FOG
welp FOG, if ya send me out a couple dogbones for free, ill advertise your name on the side of my bike, just imagine, huge FOGBERT MACHIENING in hot pink.
 

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unworthy said:
What's the benefit in a solid mount?
I have the BRG engine mounts, and frame kit.
It certainly helps with frame flex.
The solid mounts that FOG is talking about is well worth the price he's asking.
 

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sOUND CLIP ex W/OUT MUFFLERS

:)


sound clip
« on: Today at 05:04:26 pm » Quote Modify Remove

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



IDLEING fart fart fart fart






reved up FART FART FART FART






RED lINED FART FART FART FART FART FART






OVERREVED




FOG
 

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Wow Fogbert, just wow.
 

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Don't forget to use a spacer between the case bosses. It's tempting to leave those out, to save a little weight. I've seen crankcases crack, from just the pinch of the bolt. Using two short bolts defeats about 1/2 of the idea of stiffining things up. Have your damper eliminating bushings made to slightly pinch the stock center spacer.

Alan Rodenborn
Racing Unlimited
Kawasaki/Polaris
2606 200TH ST
Fort Dodge, Iowa 50501
(515)955-6000
www.racingunlimited.com

"Motor racing, mountain climbing and bull fighting are the only true sports. All the rest are children's games played by adults." - Ernest Hemingway
 

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racingunlimited said:
Don't forget to use a spacer between the case bosses. It's tempting to leave those out, to save a little weight. I've seen crankcases crack, from just the pinch of the bolt. Using two short bolts defeats about 1/2 of the idea of stiffining things up. Have your damper eliminating bushings made to slightly pinch the stock center spacer.

Alan Rodenborn
Racing Unlimited
Kawasaki/Polaris
2606 200TH ST
Fort Dodge, Iowa 50501
(515)955-6000
www.racingunlimited.com


Very bad Idea.

use 2 short bolts.

FOG

"Motor racing, mountain climbing and bull fighting are the only true sports. All the rest are children's games played by adults." - Ernest Hemingway
 
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