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Discussion Starter #1
Are there any signs or hints that your bike needs the valves adjusted? I bought my 03 bike with 7200 miles on it...it now has ~ 9800 and purrs like a kitten...60 mpg, smooth acceleration, no hiccups. Of course the owners manual says they should be adjusted at 7500 mile intervals. It is really going to p___ me off if I take it in for the valve service and it's not running as good as before. What do ye experts think?
 

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It won't run any worse than before if you have it done.

It's a pretty simple operation, there's a good write up in the how to section. The adjustment can be done with the cams still in the bike. The hardest part is just getting everything out of the way first.

If I were you. I'd do it at 7,500 miles. If they look pretty much ok, then next time do it at 9 or 10k, if it still idles smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info, but I'd still like to know whether there are any warning signs, noises, or other hints that tell you it needs to be done?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Lucky#13. I will get it done sometime in the near future.
 

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Lucky#13 said:
You will only notice signs if they need adjusting bad..(tapping , rattling ,ect...)But , none the less its best to keep up with regular mantinance on you bike for optimum performance. and as mentioned above it most definantly will not make it worse.
If the valves are adjusted too tight, esp when cold, then as they warm up and expand couldn't they actually... not close all the way? That would cut way back on the compression, plus cause back flow into the intake... then the spark goes off. Plus the gas/air pushed into the exhaust could ignite...

So, if any of that is possible, then be sure to adjust valves entirely according to the directions, eh?
 

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MrSciTrek said:
Lucky#13 said:
You will only notice signs if they need adjusting bad..(tapping , rattling ,ect...)But , none the less its best to keep up with regular mantinance on you bike for optimum performance. and as mentioned above it most definantly will not make it worse.
If the valves are adjusted too tight, esp when cold, then as they warm up and expand couldn't they actually... not close all the way? That would cut way back on the compression, plus cause back flow into the intake... then the spark goes off. Plus the gas/air pushed into the exhaust could ignite...

So, if any of that is possible, then be sure to adjust valves entirely according to the directions, eh?
The situation you discribe above would be cured simply. The engine wouldn't run.

FOG
 

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MrSciTrek said:
Lucky#13 said:
You will only notice signs if they need adjusting bad..(tapping , rattling ,ect...)But , none the less its best to keep up with regular mantinance on you bike for optimum performance. and as mentioned above it most definantly will not make it worse.
If the valves are adjusted too tight, esp when cold, then as they warm up and expand couldn't they actually... not close all the way? That would cut way back on the compression, plus cause back flow into the intake... then the spark goes off. Plus the gas/air pushed into the exhaust could ignite...

So, if any of that is possible, then be sure to adjust valves entirely according to the directions, eh?
Another thought on this thread:
The valve train on the EX actually increases the clearance when warm. The expansion rate of the aluminium Head exceeds the valve rate by a factor of 6:1. For this and for power production reasons I always set the clearances at .005 in and .006 Ex. Just looking for that minuscule performance edge that a few degrees of valve opening would give.

FOG
 

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[/quote]
Another thought on this thread:
The valve train on the EX actually increases the clearance when warm. The expansion rate of the aluminium Head exceeds the valve rate by a factor of 6:1. For this and for power production reasons I always set the clearances at .005 in and .006 Ex. Just looking for that minuscule performance edge that a few degrees of valve opening would give.

FOG
[/quote]

See what happens when I go & learn some things on old pushrod, solid-lifter, Ford & Chevy V-8s... & then try to apply those ideas to a different design. Keep it up FOG, & I may have to add you to my will!

Not that I'm worth very much or anything. :-[
 

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Another thought on this thread:
The valve train on the EX actually increases the clearance when warm. The expansion rate of the aluminium Head exceeds the valve rate by a factor of 6:1. For this and for power production reasons I always set the clearances at .005 in and .006 Ex. Just looking for that minuscule performance edge that a few degrees of valve opening would give.

FOG
[/quote]

See what happens when I go & learn some things on old pushrod, solid-lifter, Ford & Chevy V-8s... & then try to apply those ideas to a different design. Keep it up FOG, & I may have to add you to my will!

Not that I'm worth very much or anything. :-[
[/quote]

Just trying to payback for that 8TH grade Sicence teacher of mine.

FOG
 
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