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Discussion Starter #1
Hey hope all is well. Just finished my first valve clearance check that was recommended to me after one of my questions awhile ago. Turns out some were a little tight. Others, not so much, but I bet those little tweaks make a world of difference for the general health of the engine. I have a question though about the copper oil lines. Do they snap in place, seat a certain way or secure in anyway? Or you place them the best you can in their positions and let the bolt that secures them do the rest? I really want to make sure I have everything in order before I even think about turning her over.

Thanks
 

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Just pop them in one side of the pipe at a time. It's best to replace the O-rings, but if you didn't get any at least make sure the one's you have look good. Coat the O-ring area with engine oil. You should feel them "pop" into place.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I didn’t see an o ring there on the pipes? Is it possible they are stuck in where they seat themselves? I’ll need to loosen the bolt back up, but maybe not all the way.
 

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You will need to pull the oil pipes back out. All the way. The O-rings should be in the groove at the end of the oil pipes. 4 of them total. I have never heard or seen them come off the pipes when removing them. If they are not on the pipes, down in the hole where the pipes go needs to be checked. Should be easy to see if that's where they are. You should be able to get them out with a paper clip.


First thing you should do is order 4 new O-rings. The ones you have (if you have them) you do not want to reuse.


Edit: O-ring part # 670D1507
 

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I, personally, have never replaced the oil tube o-rings. You can replace them if you like, but if they are there, you are fine reusing them unless they are visibly cracked.

They do pop into place and usually do so by hand. If one side doesn't want to seat, use a flathead screwdriver at the side that doesn't want to go in to push down on the thicker part of the tube, right where the main section of smaller tube is brazed on. If it still doesn't want to go, don't force it. Pull the whole thing out and give it another go. They are easy to bend or damage.
 

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^ Yeah maybe, but in this case if they pulled off the pipes and stuck in the head that's enough of a red flag for me. But then to go and mash down on them with the pipes, O-rings not in position. Surely they will be distorted. And I didn't mean to call you Shirly :grin2:.

O-rings are cheap. :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks BPE.. I spotted the o rings and I do agree with Saab.. yesterday afternoon I went back out there and gave it another go. I guess I really never noticed the o rings on the lines because they are in fact very small. Nonetheless, I inspected them and they look honestly in pretty good condition. No cracks. After a while I finally got the lines reseated properly with a little oil and time. Just takes some patience for sure.. Very fragile little lines. Almost got everything cleaned back up and will be putting back together today after work. Flushing the system as well with DI water like the wiki says after the check a couple times.

Thanks for all the assistance. You guyz are awesome
 

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@Saabnut and @bpe are both conscientious, knowledgeable EX owners, if you were ever to buy an EX....buy THEIRS! Well taken care of, always serviced to book or better.

A side comment...my NY Craigslist has become alarmingly devoid of any worthwhile EX500's. Obvious they are now becoming a rare breed.
Keep that old Gen 1 clean and factory original, folks !
 

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First thing you should do is order 4 new O-rings. The ones you have (if you have them) you do not want to reuse.


Edit: O-ring part # 670D1507
Thank you for this - do they have to be Kawasaki-specific, or can I use o-rings from my variety supply kit in my garage?
 

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Yeah down here in AR they are as rare as hens teeth . all there is is overpriced harley and harley wannabes .

Since this is a valve topic. in my many rebuilds and degreeing the cam jobs I discovered the relationship of valve clearance to valve(cam) timing.
each .001" of valve clearance equates to 2 degrees of crank rotation. so to get maximum power thru best cam timing. set the valves a tight as you dare this give quicker opening and longer duration. In my racing career, racing in a box stock class I searched for the unfair advantage. this was one of them'

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
You know now that I think of it Ducatiman.. off topic but if any of y’all really could give me some tips on how to affordably remount the dash gauge to the bike properly would be a great help.. when you mention keeping a Gen 1 to factory condition... It’s kind of hard, because I bought my EX500 not running for $500. She was also stripped a part AND the dash was ZIP TIED to the forks.. I’m really giving this bike all the TLC I can give. Just a shame this previous owner abused this bike. Saved a lot of money becoming a member on this forum and having the ability to read. Lmao
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah down here in AR they are as rare as hens teeth . all there is is overpriced harley and harley wannabes .

Since this is a valve topic. in my many rebuilds and degreeing the cam jobs I discovered the relationship of valve clearance to valve(cam) timing.
each .001" of valve clearance equates to 2 degrees of crank rotation. so to get maximum power thru best cam timing. set the valves a tight as you dare this give quicker opening and longer duration. In my racing career, racing in a box stock class I searched for the unfair advantage. this was one of them'

FOG
That’s very interesting
 

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Discussion Starter #15
This is Twister. Previous owner also spray painted her... her frame black.. he didn’t bother taking all the wires off so a lot of stuff is black that shouldn’t be and it doesn’t really look like he sanded anything down really.. just a mess but I’m slowly fixing it.
Named her Twister because I live in Kansas aka tornado alley. Lol. Thought it was catchy.
 

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Since this is a valve topic. in my many rebuilds and degreeing the cam jobs I discovered the relationship of valve clearance to valve(cam) timing.
each .001" of valve clearance equates to 2 degrees of crank rotation. so to get maximum power thru best cam timing. set the valves a tight as you dare this give quicker opening and longer duration. In my racing career, racing in a box stock class I searched for the unfair advantage. this was one of them'
FOG
Purposely disregarding minimum factory valve clearance specs is certainly not recommended for *any* street rider, as I think Fog will admit to doing VERY frequent valve clearance checks, I believe he'd posted in the past doing them every or every other race weekend. As if 7500 mile intervals weren't enough....imagine doing them 4 or 500 *hundred* max.

Street riders should stick to the oft recommended .006" intake .009" exhaust, adhering to 7500 mile intervals.
 

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Thank you for this - do they have to be Kawasaki-specific, or can I use o-rings from my variety supply kit in my garage?
If you can get the correct size, probably any O-ring will be fine.
Inside diameter = 7mm
Outside diameter = 11mm
 
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