[Guest]

hi guys, couple of questions. what the best way of adjusting these, cold as per manual or according to the local bike shop hot, quote" do them hot if this causes a rattle when cold fine just ignore it".

also following on from Lunty74's post about CCT,s mine has a manual adjuster what the best method to use for adjustment engine running "by ear" or stood using a measured amount of chain deflection.
I know the 2nd gen stock is better but unless you have very deep pockets these seem as rare as hens teeth around here as most are 1st gen on sale, the manual one at least seems better than these,
any input welcome.
thanks in advance.

 

[ghostt]

Well for myself I prefer doing cold, just because I don't like to burn myself.

As far as the whole CCT goes pick up a 2nd gen one as soon as your able. Worst case it's about $90.00 USD new

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/kawasaki/KP-12048-1141.html

This Kawasaki 12048-1141 TENSIONER-ASSY,CAM CH is used on these models and components:



2006 EX500D6F Ninja 500R CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

2007 EX500D7F Ninja 500R CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

2008 EX500D8F Ninja 500R CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

2009 EX500D9F Ninja 500R CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

2011 KL650EBF KLR650 CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

2012 KL650ECF KLR650 CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

1994 EX500-D1 Ninja 500 CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

1995 EX500-D2 Ninja 500 CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

1996 EX500-D3 Ninja 500 CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

1997 EX500-D4 Ninja 500R CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

1998 EX500-D5 Ninja 500R CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

1999 EX500-D6 Ninja 500R CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

2000 EX500-D7 Ninja 500R CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

2001 EX500-D8 Ninja 500R CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

2002 EX500-D9 Ninja 500R CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

2003 EX500-D10 Ninja 500R CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

2004 EX500-D11 Ninja 500R CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

2005 EX500-D12 Ninja 500R CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

2006 EX500D6F Ninja 500R CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

2007 EX500D7F Ninja 500R CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

2008 EX500D8F Ninja 500R CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

2009 EX500D9F Ninja 500R CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

2011 KL650EBF KLR650 CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

2012 KL650ECF KLR650 CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER

 

[mangosmoothie]

I'd do it cold. Like Ghost said, don't wanna burn yourself. If you've never done it before, it'll take an hour or 2 to strip everything off and pop the valve cover off. By that time, the bike will have cooled down anyway. The manual also says cold, so I'd imagine Kawasaki gave the clearance specs assuming the bike was cold.

 

[floridaex500]

If I'm adjusting valves I rip it all apart the night before then when I wake up next day I'm sharp and well rested for the part that matters which is the part where you actually use the feeler.

 

[lunty74]

lol I hope this is right otherwise ill sound a complete smeg head yep col is right unless u got 65 quid for a new one. used is the only option ... now I tried a kle first most are only in us and shipping is expensive so I looked on ebay there was a er500 1999 cct for sale but wasn't sure so I looked at this bran new gen 2 cct on ebay £65 and there identical I bought mine for £18 ...................................................................... the black one is the second gen cct

 

[lunty74]

lol I hope this is right otherwise ill sound a complete smeg head yep col is right unless u got 65 quid for a new one. used is the only option ... now I tried a kle first most are only in us and shipping is expensive so I looked on ebay there was a er500 1999 cct for sale but wasn't sure so I looked at this bran new gen 2 cct on ebay £65 and there identical I bought mine for £18 ...................................................................... the black one is the second gen cct

just checked my Haynes manual the ER500 CCT also fits the EX500D model so it will be 2nd gen

 

[lunty74]

hi guys, couple of questions. what the best way of adjusting these, cold as per manual or according to the local bike shop hot, quote" do them hot if this causes a rattle when cold fine just ignore it".

also following on from Lunty74's post about CCT,s mine has a manual adjuster what the best method to use for adjustment engine running "by ear" or stood using a measured amount of chain deflection.
I know the 2nd gen stock is better but unless you have very deep pockets these seem as rare as hens teeth around here as most are 1st gen on sale, the manual one at least seems better than these,
any input welcome.
thanks in advance.

yorkie here is one I found cheap as chips and should fit your bike
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d25d4672e

 

[jonh]

6thou and 8thou cold. Should sound like a Singer Sewing Machine for the first couple of min's after start-up then go silent.

 

[lunty74]

oh yes when u do the adjustments pick were u are reading from to do it ... manual or the forum post with (pictures ) I got confused trying to use both the manual said use 3 feeler gauges , forum 2 , and how to check the points on the cam chain cogs I did use the forum for this because the manual lied to me so seen the pic on the wikki .. its when u have to use the markings on the flywheel and the cam sprockets... and if you are like me u got shovel size hands loosen and take off the bolts (whatever u do don't drop them down the gap of the cam chain ) holding the oil lines in makes it a bit easier

 

[Guest]

hi guys, couple of questions. what the best way of adjusting these, cold as per manual or according to the local bike shop hot, quote" do them hot if this causes a rattle when cold fine just ignore it".

also following on from Lunty74's post about CCT,s mine has a manual adjuster what the best method to use for adjustment engine running "by ear" or stood using a measured amount of chain deflection.
I know the 2nd gen stock is better but unless you have very deep pockets these seem as rare as hens teeth around here as most are 1st gen on sale, the manual one at least seems better than these,
any input welcome.
thanks in advance.

yorkie here is one I found cheap as chips and should fit your bike
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d25d4672e

Great except it's in fort worth. lol.

actually I have been doing some searching and to me there is a lot that looks like they may be the same. zzr kle zxr zepher even the yam yzf looks similar will any of these fit the ex.

some have an O ring and others not and some are a bit longer. but to me they seem identical.
whats your thoughts, I know Ghostt posted a list but these seem mostly ex500 variants or KLR, surely Kawasaki dont use a different CCT on every model make no sense.

 

[mangosmoothie]

Just point the cam lobes straight up. Don't worry about the markings on the cams or flywheel

 

[jonh]

Personaly, I wouldnt touch a "manual" tensioner with a barge pole, but hey, it's up to the individual,

Try this, it fit's, and works, and don't stretch the chain,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-...pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item1e932cb016

 

[lunty74]

yorkie I nearly had a rage fit trying to find a gpz gen 2 cct in the UK its like some one is hoarding them .. which is y I went with ER 500 they only started the model in 97 .. you defo need to find a scrap dealer or motorbike salvager when u get your bike on the road that way u can see the parts u want ... try hills salvage in skelmersdale they do er ex gpz and loads of other models ( they got no CCT,s on the webpage but if u phone and ask they can sort it I keep meaning to ride up there myself

 

[Guest]

hi guy's, thanks for that, as helpful as ever, Jon I have that one in my watch list along with about 10 others of similar design, glad to know it will fit, lunty's right some ones hoarding all the 2nd gen ones, [half expect a new Dave Gormley statue to come out made entirely of them. LOL.] yet other CCT's are as cheap as chips it's hard to fathom.
I will order one to-nite, the engine is almost ready to go back in the frame just the CCT and engine to paint setting the valves was a breeze only one was way out left hand exhaust [will be where the rattle came from] all the rest were near enough so left alone.

will probably be the last job for a bit the budget is busted now, as I have had to replace just about every working part the only two bits still original is the engine and frame, oh and the "dog bones connector" but these were a nightmare the shaft had rusted in, bought two overhaul kits at £30 a throw and when the sleeves were replaced the shaft would not fit had to get a engineer to reamer them out @ £40 per hour.
this bikes turning into a money pit. hope it is worth it in the end.

 

[jonh]

hi guy's, thanks for that, as helpful as ever, Jon I have that one in my watch list along with about 10 others of similar design, glad to know it will fit, lunty's right some ones hoarding all the 2nd gen ones,

ME,
I have 1 of each, ready for a project,

 

[lunty74]

she wont let u go now yorkie u spent money :{ and she has a taste for it ...... best thing you can do write ( 2 lists one of ASAP cant wait jobs and parts . and one of jobs that can wait a couple of months ) if u have the spare cash try to buy a part u need in the future .the very rare parts we just don't see ... I have a set of 2nd gen gears ,fork oil seals and crankcases I bought in January ... my list is short now fork spring ,fog bones ,fog rearsets , fog engine mounts , airbox rear brake shoes rear brake lever paint engine and frame

 

[Guest]

your dead right there mate, she loves the lolly alright, although to be honest I did not expect a complete rebuild to be cheap.
the hard part is replacing stuff I expected to be serviceable, it is a steep learning curve and expensive.
the old girl was stood best part of 8years, last tax disc was 2007,and most moving parts were rock solid.
honestly is was that bad I had cut most of the nuts off with a Dremel.
I have found [at my expense] it is cheaper to replace the whole unit rather than renew them like [dog bone coupler] it cost the best part of £120 to refurbish, similar price to new, but could have got a usable one off Ebay for £30. and saved £90 to spend elsewhere. but hey whats gone has gone,

so far I have powder coated frame. obtained and powder coated swing arm, dog bones, and wheels.
had to buy rear wheel, [oval cracked drum] front forks [pitted beyond repair] wheel bearings [both] rear shock [sv650] head stock bearings, chain and sprockets, chain guard. [missing] brake shoes, and pads, front fender [broke] front brake caliper, new battery, CCT, and a complete set of wiring loom ends [most corroded] plugs filters and oil and new bolts and nylon lock nuts, £500 and it only half built LOL.
good news is the plastic is spot on and the electrics worked ok before strip down.
as the saying goes "watch this space".

 

[lunty74]

I stopped counting once I hit $500 but I have a folder with 38 invoices for parts since I purchased the bike last year ... but everyone thought id bought a new bike its the same bike its been luntified ...

 

[jonh]

But at the end of the day it will all have been worth it,

 

[Guest]

But at the end of the day it will all have been worth it,

hope so mate, I suppose changing all the working parts means when it's finished it will be as good as new with a well run in engine.
not doing any major mods, trying for the std look [with improvements] I don't think there is much left to get except for cables and the odd bit that's still missing.

want to do a project thread but don't know where to post it !! . lol.

once the engine is in it will have to stand a bit, "her indoors" wants the house decorating before Christmas.
should take a couple of weeks.