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Discussion Starter #1
I’m following my Haynes manual/forum write up and am feeling screwed. Are the pipes in the center of the valve cover supposed to be removed? The screws are stripped that let them out. Otherwise it has been a straightforward process.
51640
 

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yep you need to get them out, find a impact driver to help you get them out

FOG
 

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Replace those damn phillips/JIC with allen heads. I just did this in last couple of days. You'll need to remove plugs (good time to replace) to ease rotating crank, and disassemble/clean the spark plug cap innards, taking advantage of open access. I'm ordering a couple of those cooling system tube orings to have on hand, will routinely replace them in future EX services. Great time for Toddlamps Pair delete kit too, if you are so inclined.

Forgot to mention be mindful of the 2 dowels! DO NOT drop inboard!
 

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I would use stainless Torx screws as they are less likely to strip than other head styles.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Overall went smooth. Had to replace the screws. I saw too late the idea for different screw heads, but next time. I’m going back in to see the dowels. I never noticed any, so I’m hoping they stayed put. Thanks for the help everyone. Special thanks to Duc for my carbs and the fuel filter I was going to buy. Also put in new plugs, FOG Mod, and cleaned the wires.

I deferred all my winter Maintenance due to not insulating the garage last year. Catching up now.
 

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those plugs are nuffin....looka dis thing from EX done yesterday here. So is it a runner now, carbs work out OK?


ge15.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Not yet running. Gotta get a new fuel line for the carbs and lube the cables before the tank goes back on. Another trip to the store in the morning should do it though.

Side note, the dowels were still in their place, thank goodness. And this is one of the screws I removed.
 

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Yikes!

So most of the skrews are not Phillips head, it's actually JIS (same with a lot of Japanese vehicles) getting a JIS screw driver will save a lot of stopped screws. Better yet go Allen head (personally I think Allen would be better than torx, but I may be wrong).
 

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elsevere, looks like an attempt to drill it out was made. Allen, torx, whatever...replace with an upgrade, not another of the same. PS they don't need to be torqued to 8 million ft/lb....firm yes, but remember the oring on the tube is making the seal, not the screw. Overtorque unnecessary.

How were the valve clearances? Standard, customary EX tight exhausts?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah, that was the one I had to drill out. It was stripped to a circle. No other way to get a grip. Valve clearances were tighter than .005” all around. I checked them all with that gauge just for hoots. Went to .008 for exhaust and .006 for intake. I’m planning to do it all again this winter for muscle memory. Doubtful I’ll hit the 7500 miles before that.
 

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Good decision to check and set them. I think you'll find between carbs and valves a definite "touch of the button" start should occur. Really makes the difference, provided all the other poop is ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I’m pretty excited to get it out again. It’s also got new sneakers. I felt bad running around knowing the previous owner let it sit for 3 years, and likely ignored all maintenance.
 

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I popped for Denso Iridium plugs from Seattle Ducati (before the bank swooped in and confiscated everything). And no, they will probably not last 250+ K like they have in DW's IS-300 and Honda Element, but they are just a better plug to use in a marginal ignition system. Coil on top of Iridium would be a near maintenance free ignition. If I live long enough, we'll find out.

Any interest, read a bit on iridium. The upper end of the platinum scale and the most erosion resistant metal known. Deposited in two thin layers around the earth's crust, it is surmised that an iridium-rich metorite struck the earth and the resulting dust left us with good spark plugs.

Dinosaurs die off, EX500s live. Pretty cool.
 

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I've had a set of NGK Iridium plugs installed on my bike for something like 40,000+ miles now and last I checked 7,000 miles ago during a valve adjustment, they were nowhere near being worn out. I do check the gap at every valve service and, according to my notes, do require a minor gap adjustment each time. I'll know in another 3,000 miles how exactly they are doing but I have a feeling they'll be just fine.
P.S., I have a coil on plug conversion, virtually maintenance free it is.
 
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