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Video tutorial: How to change front and real sprocket and chain.

4.9K views 2 replies 3 participants last post by  one_evil_monkey  
#1 ·
I just found this awesome quality video of how to replace the front and rear sprockets along with the chain and rear break pads. Hope this helps someone else besides me.

IT IS NOT MY VIDEO JUST SOMETHING I FOUND.

PART ONE

PART TWO

Enjoy!
 
#2 ·
A few things...

He doesn't do any maintenance on the caliper when replacing the brake pads. As the pad wears down, more of the piston is exposed, and gets gunked up with road grime and brake dust. If you don't thoroughly clean the piston before pushing it back in, it can lead to seal problems. It's best to completely tear the caliper down and ensure everything is clean and functional, but at the very least you want to scrub the piston clean.

When he's putting it back together, he puts the caliper bracket on wrong. There's a groove in the caliper that fits over a tab on the swingarm to keep it from rotating. You basically have to slide the bracket in from the back of the bike. It's a whole lot simpler to do if you unbolt the caliper from the bracket. That gives you complete freedom to move the bracket around however you need while installing the axle, and you don't have to worry about lining up the disc while doing it. Once you've got the axle in, you can just drop the caliper over the disc and bolt it back to the bracket.

Also, once you've got the rear wheel out, it's only a few more bolts to completely remove the swingarm. That would allow you to install a pre-made chain loop if you prefer. It'll also get you into a few areas that tend to get ignored for cleaning and lubing. It's definitely not necessary, but it's not a ton of extra work if you've got a centerstand.

When aligning the wheel, the marks on the swingarm have been known to not be all that accurate. It's a good place to start and better than nothing, but it's best to align it with a more precise method.
 
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#3 · (Edited)
I quit and turned off the vid about 30 seconds in.
About the time it was mentioned there was no master link.
No kidding, the factory chain is an endless link type.
WTF was he expecting?
I may have missed something in Bill's reply so forgive me.

You want to remove the factory chain without a chain break...?
Fine, swing arm removal.
You want a quality chain and sprockets?
JT sprocket and D.I.D chain.

Use a chain break and chain master link set tool for long life.
Use whatever cheap s*** if you're satisfied with Volare.
Cheap is fine if you replace parts on the regular when racing.
Last time I checked you're not racing so we go for long life.

O_E_M

ETA: another fine example of "I watched a vid so I can do it" syndrom.
Just because you see it in a vid doesn't mean it's right.