Before I offer any comment.....can you offer a link to your chosen Serbian built VR please? (should reveal required wiring needed) Is it an actual Mosfet?
so you are using the stock connectors? Then i must wonder why the duplicitous 2 "direct to battery" connections? I'd suggest safely removing them, take output readings while running yet again at both battery and (separately) between the 2 , now disconnected + and -.I soldered connector to new R/R,
absolutely correct. this in my view is the issue the OP has. considering he has.The voltage drop in an electrical circuit when a load is applied is a sign that the voltage source does not have enough power (output amps) to power the load.
So the dual aspect of the RR isn't working. it is converting the 60v AC current to 12v DC (rectifier) just fine but not regulating the output voltage of 12v to accommodate the supply load (regulator) so is using battery power to make up the difference. (this discharges the battery) , I suspect the old RR was burned out (initial problem) but the new one (shunt type) is not wired in way that allows it to sense the load on the system so just pushes out the same power regardless of the current load.Removed fuel tank, cleaned all connectors, cleaned ground on the starter, ground near the thermostat, applied contact cleaner spray and tested it... It was about 13.3V lights OFF...
I agree with everything you guys are saying.* new one had 7 wires.3 input phases, two outputs, two sensing wires to connect directly battery posts* I won't be moving any wires anywhere since my new R/R got fried somehow, + output is shorthed to one input phase...I like your idea testing the stator output directly with a lightbulb! I've done the same myself thinking to find a "bad leg"...but didn't find one so I haven't proved to myself it's an idea that works
I wonder if maybe you could try moving the old R/R's "sense wire" to the battery + post awithou involving that white wire you mention at the light switch? (but I don't have the 98's wiring diagram so I'm just offering it as an idea) to see if it makes a difference...?
that is exactly the point I was making TBH I have no idea why you resisted the suggestion. if you want to stop messing and fix it once and for all, go find a Genuine Shindengen Mosfet RR type FH010 or FH020. (ex ZX10) cut the plug off the old RR as near to the unit as possible and fit 16amp female ends on the 5 wires (3 yellow 1 white 1 black/yellow delete the brown wire) , plug it in and enjoy. only slight issue is the unit is bigger than stock you will have to get inventive on how you mount it (mines held in place with tie bands).I might actually have two bad R/R's now, I have no idea at this point to be honest.
Edit:no mods, not even changed a single lightbulb
the EX500 was discontinued in 2008 and fitted with a stock shunt RR. Kawasaki's from 2011 almost universally had Mosfet's fitted so do not need the brown sensing wire. when fitting a FH010 or 20 Mosfet the brown wire is indeed disconnected from the RR, as it is not needed as the unit is self regulating,One thing, the brown wire in the drawing I have completes the circuit to the white regulator output wire through the key switch, that brown goes to several fuses which include the tail light. Since the regulator you have doesn't use that and in fact Kawasaki has stopped using the brown wire since about 2011-lets move on.
I thought I would add a bit more information. A misconception as to MosFet as copied from Roadster cycle Remains a SHUNT regulatorFirst some really good info. I looked at a EX500D wiring diagram for USA . Many aspects of the wiring resemble modern Kawasaki wiring diagrams, one difference is it shows the stator as Y connected.
Several comments, one that using a 55 watt light bulb across each phase is a good idea. One thing I wish to point out and near the end of this post you will understand better. You measured it at 1 ohm. Be aware a incandescent bulb is non linear. That is at 13 VDC 1 ohm would be volts divided by ohms = 13 amp, watts is volts times amps so 13 X 13 = 169 watts. That bulb is rated 55 watt at 12 volts. So actual resistance at 12.0 volts is 2.63 ohms and 4.55 amps at 12 volts .
One thing, the brown wire in the drawing I have completes the circuit to the white regulator output wire through the key switch, that brown goes to several fuses which include the tail light. Since the regulator you have doesn't use that and in fact Kawasaki has stopped using the brown wire since about 2011-lets move on.
One thing I have yet to see is a suggestion to measure the 3 phase volts ac at the regulator input while running using the idle adjustment screw , say 20% above idle. You are trying to determine if you have a regulator problem or stator or overload condition. It is possible to have a bad connection on 1 phase and not show with multiple regulators. I use this test to prove if a series regulator is real or fake.
Several things may happen, first as far as I know this is a Y connected stator, I am looking for a balanced AC voltage between phases under full load, please measure the volts DC at the battery, low beam light on, what RPM you are using and also A to B, B to C and C to A AC voltages ( this is closed circuit ) something 14.5 VAC or less would mean you are at maximum output of the stator.
A-B with 32 VAC or greater and B-C and C-A with 14.5 VAC or less would indicate a single phase condition. What you could then do is swap A-B with one of the others on the regulator, and see if the low phase A follows , or if the regulator / wire connection is the issue.
One other test would be to measure both the battery VDC and the volts DC at the regulator, they should be the same.
If you go to the third diagram you will see 3 phase short FET -note all the regulation is built within the regulator itself Post #6
Regulator / Series / Shunt / Star / Delta / Technical Info