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With heavier springs I'll submit the muscles will build up, clutching will soon become routine. As its no more than an exercise, you'll soon accustom to the heavier pull. @Saabnut an Oberon slave will offer obvious relief on the SS, however my VFR by far the most demanding of my bunch.
 

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Also make sure you are using the correct oil. Any 10w-30 and thinner oil is no good for these engines, half because it'll have a friction modifier (if it's an automotive oil) which will cause the clutch to slip and half because that's just too thin an oil for these motors. Any 10w-40 and thicker oil will work just fine for these engines. Something else to keep in mind is to check the slack in the clutch cable. There should be some but not a great deal, say enough to wiggle the clutch lever 10-15 percent of it's total travel.

Two anecdotes regarding those points. Years ago, a coworker got a beat up 90's CBR600. Clutch was slipping pretty bad and he was set to buy a new clutch but I recommended we change the oil first. Oil was nasty and seemed too thin. Fresh 10w-40 and a filter and that solved all his clutch problems.

Last year, I helped a friend get a Monster 620. I rode it the 45 miles back to town where he bought it to let me get the first impressions as I was a more seasoned rider. Clutch was slipping under heavy load at higher speeds. I checked the slack in the lever (it's hydraulic which is functionally different but the net result is the same) and it had absolutely none. In fact, the adjustment screw and been set to max and was constantly applying light pressure to the clutch. Set the slack correctly and problem was immediately resolved.

Moral of the story, the solution is often stupid simple. It pays to start with the free, cheap and easy stuff first, so start with the basics and move up.

@ducatiman , I've thought about it but I don't do enough in town riding for it to make much of a difference. Besides, I've got an archery range in my yard and it's good to keep my arm strength up.
 

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While it is possible to burn out the clutch on an EX, I'd say it's one of the most robust parts of these engines. I've yet to personally see a clutch go due to mileage and I know some of those who race here never needed to think about them. They do have notoriously weak springs which get weak with age and can imitate a bad clutch by allowing excessive slip due to lack of pressure. The common upgrade option used for the springs is Barnett spring kit 501-50-05055.

What happened to your clutch which made you decide to get a new clutch kit?
Cool, I didnt know the Ninjas were that tough when it comes to the clutch. Its just a preventive thing, I already have new springs for the clutch. 16K on the engine I think ill just take a peek inside looking for anything strange. If I'm gonna get in there might as well throw a clutch in.

I really dont know much about the bike, it cranks and that about it its a project bike and its been all kinds butchered and there was neglect and the oil was really dirty.
 

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I'll be ordering a set of clutch springs then.
I had to teach my sons friends how to adjust the clutch properly as they all had them set completely wrong on their bikes - no slack, in fact the adjuster was always wound out as far as it would go. The common reply was "I like it like that", my reply was something like "You won't like the repair bill when you burn the clutch out", but I may have added a few F words to get my message across!
A friend turned up on his Hyabusa that he bought off another guy and the clutch was slipping badly. Turned out to be the cheap levers that looked great but didn't actually fit properly. He refitted the original levers that came with the bike and hey presto the clutch was fine, that was when he also found out that the brake lever hadn't been working properly either.
 

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More like what I did for my Ninja over the last 2 weeks... Clutch cable partially snapped a while ago so I figure, why not run down the periodic maintenance chart while I'm waiting for a new set of cables to come in? Looked it up, turns out I'm a bit overdue for the big 12.5k mile service, so I finally got around to buying a service manual and rolled up my sleeves. Highlights include cleaning and re-greasing the swingarm, uni-track, and steering stem (all filthy, grimy, and sticky, of course) and tightening up the PO's hilariously soft suspension setting; low-lights include lots of kerosene and some creative rigging. I also wanted to clean up the top of the engine, so I got my hands on toddlamp's incredible PAIR blockoff kit (check the for sale forum, easiest and quickest wrenching I've done on this bike so far!) and some ZX10-R ignition coils. With the exception of the now-functional rear shock, the bike doesn't feel all that different, but knowing there's grease in all the pivots and all the bolts are torqued to spec gives me some great peace-of-mind. 🏍

Rear shock before/after: no wonder it felt squishy all last season!
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Engine before/after: If I didn't know any better, I'd say it was stock 😎
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Sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do... On the plus side, I don't think the rear end has ever been this shiny!
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Best part of the PAIR/coil mods: I can get to the plugs without taking anything off!
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Of course you can't see any of the work I did with all the fairings on, but I know I did it and I guess that's what counts 🤷‍♂️
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Took the PAIR system off and used the Lamp kit (pretty easy and cleaned up area nicely).

Replaced seals, bolts o-rings and the cylinder pipe for the water pump area and new coolant. Then took her out for a spin, good to finally have it mobile again!
 

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Had a valve stem on the rear that looked like it was cut with a knife. Ended up replacing both front and rear with 90 degree aluminum stems. Only had a squeeze clamp, beadpro bars, core remover, and a bicycle pump. Got the job done.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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i'm surprised no one has created this yet. Simple.. what did you do for ur Ninja today? fill gas? changed chain? added blinkers? changed tires? anything goes. Lets hear em.

I'll start it off.

I adjusted the idle on mine. It was at ~1500. I lowered it down to 1300rpm but it was running a bit rough so i played with it a bit and at 1100ish it was the smoothest so thats what i left it at. ;D
I actually just purchased a new full exhaust system from Delkevic. Got the 2-2 system with the 8” carbon fiber cans. Ordered new intergrated LED unit for the back brake and turn signal. New led front headlight. And new side view mirror with the turn signal integrated as well.
 

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no ninja here, but my SS800 Ducati unrecognizable....in process doing valve clearance check, MBP valve collet install and separating airbox from battery compartment (a mod which allows focused service access/removal for either electrics OR airbox...not both to do either as stands now)
I'm on my game...no casual beer drinkin' while doin' Duc valves, no way. Nice mess, eh?

valve620.jpg
 

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Finally cleaned the carbs, installed the exhaust system, changed the bars for clip ons, new headlight, new grips. Just need to clean up the cables and wires.
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@chindian88 lookin good, but the coolant overflow tank needs to "go away". Dunno, are you running the stock EX fairing? If not then "blacking out" the tank may be called for. Otherwise a very nice EX.

A long day labor invested on the SS yesterday...goals met...valve clearances checked/corrected (1 very tight exhaust valve opener), MBP collets installed, airbox separation accomplished. Todays goal to reassemble all, get running, check/correct the throttle body synch. An oil/filter change v soon. Done. The time/$$ and intense effort will result in an easier serviced, more reliable, resilient SS800 in the long term. Can now safely bump up labor intensive valve check intervals, ty MBP.
 
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