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I have a 2005 kawasaki ninja EX500. I cant seem to get it started. Ive replaced the water pukp, cleaned carbs , new battery, changed spark plugs and oil and fresh gas. Checked starter it works. The lights turn on when I turn on the bile. When i crank it the bike clicks around the fuse box area and when it turns over I noticed after trying many many times that gasoline was starting to come out of the exhaust. Idk why? The battery voltage without bike trying to turn on it 12v . When i read the voltage drop it goes down to 7v when I tried to turn it on. Idk what else to
Do i dont want to give up can anyone help me?
 

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you do not have enough volts while cranking to fire the plugs they need at least 10.5v depending on the bike set up it might need to be 11v. you say the battery is new what type is it and what is the amp rating written on it.
it is possible even a new battery could be faulty. most if not all the maladies are due to not starting the plugs are probably wet now also. charge the battery fully and then check the voltages again if it's still drops to 7v the battery is duff.
 

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you do not have enough volts while cranking to fire the plugs they need at least 10.5v depending on the bike set up it might need to be 11v. you say the battery is new what type is it and what is the amp rating written on it.
it is possible even a new battery could be faulty. most if not all the maladies are due to not starting the plugs are probably wet now also. charge the battery fully and then check the voltages again if it's still drops to 7v the battery is duff.
you do not have enough volts while cranking to fire the plugs they need at least 10.5v depending on the bike set up it might need to be 11v. you say the battery is new what type is it and what is the amp rating written on it.
it is possible even a new battery could be faulty. most if not all the maladies are due to not starting the plugs are probably wet now also. charge the battery fully and then check the voltages again if it's still drops to 7v the battery is duff.
ive attached a picture of the battery i purchased. Im thinking i drained the battery from trying multiple attemps to turn on the bike. Another thing i would like to add is that one of the ignition coils does not snap in properly . The other coil you push it down and to take it off its tight while the one I just mentioned in the previous sentence its really easy to push on and off with minimal effort . Its like it doesnt grab. Should i change out that coil ? And lastly any thoughts on the gas coming from exhaust. I took exhaust pipes off and i clearly see gasoline coming from exhaust holes while attempting to turn the bike on. Could the bike be flooded from all the atremps or carb needs to be rebuilt?
 

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"When i read the voltage drop it goes down to 7v when I tried to turn it on."

as yorkie posted the ignition system requires around 10.5 volts (measured from the battery while cranking under load)....in order to provide adequate voltage to enable the ignition system to function. You can crank all you want.....but 7V insufficient. Get a motorcycle specific battery charger, charge the battery overnight. Standing voltage ( no load) should
be around 12.6 or above.
Next verify the spark plugs are actually making spark while cranking.

You note the coils "that you push down" I guess you are referring to spark plug caps? There are 3 or 4 internal parts which must be accounted for.

Your combustion chambers may be getting hydrolocked to some degree from the combination of unmetered fuel being introduced through numerous long start attempts.
The carburetor circuits must be clear AND the float system fully functional, only allowing fuel upon engine demand and not "free flowing". You mentioned you did your own carbs, if you set them up correctly...this should not be an issue....unless you missed some critical steps.

There are a zillion "no start" threads covering both fuel and ignition issues,, but don't expect responses from members within 10 year old threads.

So, you've got multiple issues to address and eliminate, one by one PROPERLY before you can achieve push button starting, stable idle and an engine which responds to throttle input.

Exactly what city/state are you located? Sounds like you need some input from a knowledgeable EX owner/ member here.
 
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Carbs need to be rebuilt and the battery needs to be slooooowly charged up to 12 volts.

Edit: or what @ducatiman said.
 

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I live in south texas about hour south of san antonio. A few things is like to ask . When you said “You note the coils "that you push down" I guess you are referring to spark plug caps? There are 3 or 4 internal parts which must be accounted for.” Do you think its best to just change out the ignition coil packs? And how would i go about fixing the engine if it is hydro locked? I did notice a very small amount of gas dripping from bottom of carbs so im thinking the carb cleaning i did wasnt good enough i should have bought and replaced parts with a rebuild kit. So i just ordered a rebuild kit and ill attempt to do the carbs again. Ill charge the battery. The bike is at a camp where i wont return till monday night. Could i private message you a video of what its doing and a qalk around of the bike. You seem very knowledgeable. Id appreciate it greatly for any continued support , if not its ok im sure you have other things to do. Just figured id ask to ask
 

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Change out coils which may be perfectly fine? No, I'm not a fan of repair via replace, both guessing and likely unnecessarily spending.

Sort out your battery and visibly inspect for presence spark.

Remember the BIG 3 ....spark, fuel, compression. Going to require the process of elimination, confirming proper function of each....1 at a time.

There is no other "quick, easy fix". Gonna require work, dedication, attention, investment in time and perhaps some $$ on tools.

Rule #1 don't blindly throw money in replacing parts until you've confirmed specific failure.

Electrical tests exist for coils, they can be bench checked if failing to provide spark.

Are you in possession of a proper SERVICE MANUAL? Kawasaki, Haynes or Clymer?
 
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Change out coils which may be perfectly fine? No, I'm not a fan of repair via replace, both guessing and likely unnecessarily spending.

Sort out your battery and visibly inspect for presence spark.

Remember the BIG 3 ....spark, fuel, compression. Going to require the process of elimination, confirming proper function of each....1 at a time.

There is no other "quick, easy fix". Gonna require work, dedication, attention, investment in time and perhaps some $$ on tools.

Rule #1 don't blindly throw money in replacing parts until you've confirmed specific failure.

Electrical tests exist for coils, they can be bench checked if failing to provide spark.

Are you in possession of a proper SERVICE MANUAL? Kawasaki, Haynes or Clymer?
yes I have the haynes manual for my bike ill have to bench check the coil packs. Check for spark as well. I can take out the spark plugs and manually turn the engine so drain out of exhaust if it is hydrolocked I think.I ordered the carb kit below and will refer to the book for the specs . This bike has definitely put me through a learning experience so far. Im really enjoying the little projects here and there so im not looking for a quick and easy fix . I like the experience its education. I just wish i had a teacher or something. I am relying on forums and youtube videos and books. The thing that excites me is that it turned on for like half a second about two weeks ago . But thats it . Water mixed with the oil. So i drained out and replaced water pump mechanical seal since it was broken. Maybe some left over water from when that happened is also an issue? I took off oil pan and clutch cover and valve cover . Cleaned all with brake cleaner and installed new gaskets . Took off oil filter and drained that. I was gonna start it and then let it run for 5 min then drain oil and put new oil ( cheap oil ) and cycle oil about 2-3 times untilI I put the good stuff in to ensure i got all the water out.
 

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year? miles? how long since last known actual, correct running?

read, digest, perform

 

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Discussion Starter #10
year? miles? how long since last known actual, correct running?

read, digest, perform

its a 2005 Kawasaki EX500
I dont know exact mileage
It has been many many years since its been turned on i bought the bike dirt cheap. Read , digest , perform i like that. I just saw a video on how to test coils with multimeter in ohms ill have to do that and add it into my bank of knowledge. I really do appreciate the support and help
 

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OMG another one. chasing ghosts with no idea what to look for. stop. take a breather read and absorb. OK.
what do we know so far well a big red flag just got hoisted aloft. "it was dirt cheap" there is a reason it was dirt cheap.
it has not run/been turned on for many many years. why what caused it to be dumped in the first place what was wrong with it when it got parked up. you have got yourself in a hole by constantly digging it deeper. swapping and changing both parts and and servicing items in the hope the next one fixes it (chasing ghosts) but that never works ever. you get into the mindset well I did this so it must be something else when it may not be perhaps something you did wasn't done right so made no difference. at some point you reached the "chicken and egg stage. namely is it not starting because of a fuel issue or is it a electrical issue. one feeds off the other.
is it flooding via the carbs so not firing or is it absorbing fuel because it is not sparking. same effect different cause.
your only going to sort this bike by just gritting your teeth. ignoring what you have done already and start at the beginning. doing and confirming one thing at a time.

so next question for you why did you buy the bike in the first place the answer is important bikes like this are notorious money pits need TLC and coxing back to life stage by stage with no shortcuts there are plenty of other issues round the corner you have not even thought about yet like tyres. brakes. suspension. chain and sprockets and a multitude of other stuff along the way. so if you bought it cheap just to patch it up and sell it on for a profit you have lost already. people never get their money back there far better ways to cash in.

if on the other hand you bought it to do up. ride and keep your in for a long road from start to finish I notice from previous threads you have had issues with water in oil. water pump carbs and battery problems and you have never actually ever heard it running. that is a problem to kick off with.
think about what you want to do and why. can you afford it are you prepared to do what it takes from start to finish pile probably loads of cash into it. and spend the next few weeks or even months working on it. you decide let us know.
then we can begin.
 

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Look at the 5th pic in this thread.
Spark plug replace, cap cleaning, wire inspection
It shows the inside of a plug cap. With a flat head screwdriver you can check to make sure the piece pictured is tight. (they can come loose) Should probably just take them both apart one at a time for inspection and cleaning any way.

Clarify this for me. Does your voltage drop to 7v when trying to crank the engine? Or does it drop as soon as you turn the key to the on position?
 

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@bpe if the battery the OP bought is exactly the one in the advert he supplied it's not an EX battery despite what the description says the battery code numbers are wrong and it's a 12amp not 14amp.
now I'm not saying it won't work. on a good running well set up easy starting bike it may be perfectly fine but one requiring constant cranking while testing it will run down far quicker. he may have to keep the battery on charge between attempts and only try when the battery is fully charged. it depends on the numbers on the multi meter while cranking and at rest.
 

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a saying in Ducati-land....the most expensive Ducati is the cheapest one. Not at all exclusive to Ducati (the money pit of all money pits)...applies to KawHonYamSuki's as well.
Don't be so quick to "replace, buy replace, repeat" until that certain item is confirmed failed and beyond any repair. Don't be so willing to jump into coil testing.....you don't even know the coils are unable to provide spark to plugs. Inspect spark plug caps/wires in the link bpe and I both referred to. Afterwards, using the newly charged battery (whether undersized or not) after servicing the plug caps.....a simple testing procedure will reveal presence of spark.

Witness that test FIRST. Focus on state of battery and spark plug caps and wires 1st thing. Starting, running dependent...wires/caps must function in concert with coils.
If it DOES provide spark (after above prerequisites) , just think of all the time you saved in testing the coils while focusing your efforts elsewhere forward. If test reveals NO spark, then and only then invest time and effort in testing coils. As Yorkie stated....don't chase ghosts.

You did post earlier that the bike ran for a short period.
Is the ignition switch present? Did you get red and green pilot lights when switched to ON position? At the moment, disregard other functions such as turn signals, tail lights,......just red and green pilot lights, yes or no?

Don't allow yourself to get run off on tangents!
 

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@bpe if the battery the OP bought is exactly the one in the advert he supplied it's not an EX battery despite what the description says the battery code numbers are wrong and it's a 12amp not 14amp.
now I'm not saying it won't work. on a good running well set up easy starting bike it may be perfectly fine but one requiring constant cranking while testing it will run down far quicker. he may have to keep the battery on charge between attempts and only try when the battery is fully charged. it depends on the numbers on the multi meter while cranking and at rest.
All good info. Just doesn't answer my questions though. So I repeat to the OP.

Clarify this for me. Does your voltage drop to 7v when trying to crank the engine? Or does it drop as soon as you turn the key to the on position?

I ask this because even though it doesn't make sense, it is the way it is worded in the 1st post.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ill try to listen to everyone advice.
1. Im chasing this ghost as a learning experience
2. It was cheap cause the previous owner just didnt want to attempt to work on it at all
3. The voltage drops to 7v when I attempt to crank
4. Ill charge the battery as ducatiman says as well as spark plug caps
5. As far as the
Pilot lights i will have to double check when im back with the bike monday night . Ill attach a video or video link to this thread of a complete walk around.
6. The ignition switch is present

I understand I sound like a noob and yall probably look down on people like me trying to revive a bike with minimal experience. I want to learn and digest and take in whatever advice and info i Get from yall. So imma remain positive. I dont want to go off on too much of a tangent
 

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Folks here love helping riders new to the EX, or motorcycles in general. They have great advice, so just follow it as much as possible. Per ducatiman's advice, don't fix or troubleshoot what isn't broken. i.e. if you're getting a healthy spark, the coils are probably fine and don't need messing with.

7v at cranking is woefully inadequate. You either have a faulty battery or the wrong battery. I know you said the battery was new, but it is simply not getting the job done....period. Fix that issue as job #1 and then go from there. Next would be to confirm a good healthy spark. From there it's fuel and the carbs. One step at a time.

BTW....welcome! :)
 

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Folks here love helping riders new to the EX, or motorcycles in general. They have great advice, so just follow it as much as possible. Per ducatiman's advice, don't fix or troubleshoot what isn't broken. i.e. if you're getting a healthy spark, the coils are probably fine and don't need messing with.

7v at cranking is woefully inadequate. You either have a faulty battery or the wrong battery. I know you said the battery was new, but it is simply not getting the job done....period. Fix that issue as job #1 and then go from there. Next would be to confirm a good healthy spark. From there it's fuel and the carbs. One step at a time.

BTW....welcome! :)
Thanks man ! I appreciate the positivity and feedback. I will definitely listen to it
 

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Thanks man ! I appreciate the positivity and feedback. I will definitely listen to it
Question....is the battery image you posted in post #3 the actual battery that you have? Or one that is just similar?

I know their website says it will work for an EX, but a 14AH battery will definitely spin the starter better than the 12AH listed for that battery. As yorkie said, it will work for a great starting bike, but the extra amperage would be more helpful in less that perfect scenarios. i.e. sitting for a while, cold weather, etc.

Either way....7v cranking seems faulty. Can you jump from a car battery and see how the bike responds to a solid battery?

My Ducati is super sensitive to a healthy battery. So much so that I carry one of those portable batteries as insurance (call me paranoid). My point is that a healthy battery is needed for a bike to reliably start.
 
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