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FOG said:
Note to administration. Once a Item has been made a sticky it should be closed to further comment except through the Admin.
so then when someone has a question, they have to post a new thread about it?

its always better to post in an existing thread than to start a new thread IMO.
 

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I feel the Stickies in the FYI section, are supposed to be instructional and thoroughly proven or tested and should not be subjected to Dilution by a lot of "what if" type comments.

FOG
 

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Just did this and the rear tire is straight as an arrow, however I am still getting some headshake ???
I also "rocked" the forks and they are perfect.
 

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Check your steering head bearrings and change the front tire. Finally straight may not be where the rear wheel (gyro) wants to be. Yes turn it a bit . Warning this will be a trial and error and hardly worth it.

FOG
 

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FOG said:
I feel the Stickies in the FYI section, are supposed to be instructional and thoroughly proven or tested and should not be subjected to Dilution by a lot of "what if" type comments.

FOG
thats true... BUT, try as we might, we aren't writing canon here...

as good as the write ups are (or future ones may be) they are not always crystal clear. inevitably people have questions...

the way i look at it, if its THAT good, then no one is going to post a question anyway, so whats the point of locking it? :)
 

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The factory marks are wrong on my new '07. FWIW they were correct on my '06 (Green - that was stolen)
Just did my first service. On chain adjust equaled up the rear marks with correct slack.
Tried the string check. They indicated out. ..Is this correct was my first thought.
I used the front of f/wheel for the front location, back thru the inside of center stands, and as far up rear as would alow without fouling on parts.
After many checks, then did a run out check on the rim at axle hight. Spot on.
The marks are just under half a division out.
Test run..speeds up to 75mph, no shake at any speed, even w/out hands.
-Alan '07 Silver.
Thanks FOG.
 

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Hi guys. We use a tape measure and measure from the swingarm pivot bolt to the axle bolt when aligning the rear wheel. Much faster and dead on accurate. ;D From that point we use the string method for lining up the front. ;D
 

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Please stop corrupting this method with complete inaccuracies. Your tape measure meathod is very bad Idea and will not cure anything as it does not addresses anything but the relationship of the two axles. any number of errors could be introduced into the actual alignment of the two wheels. You might as well measure from the seat cushion to the tail light.

You got a good Idea start a new thread.

FOG
 

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FOG said:
Please stop corrupting this method with complete inaccuracies. Your tape measure meathod is very bad Idea and will not cure anything as it does not addresses anything but the relationship of the two axles. any number of errors could be introduced into the actual alignment of the two wheels.  You might as well measure from the seat cushion to the tail light.

You got a good Idea start a new thread.

FOG
I'm NOT corrupting anything! I'm in the pits all the time and see the techs aligning the rear wheel this way. Are you saying that all of these PROS are wrong?
 

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I'm saying it an incomplete method. Your "Pros" already know where the front wheel is and they are only interested in getting the back wheel in line with a already known chassis. They spend $$$$ at GMD computrac too, or even own there own systems (GMD).
The string thing is a process that gets both wheels working, as best that can be even if the chassis may be bent. and is dooable by the average "JOE" it is well though out and tested.
You said "after you do the rear " then you do the string thing for the front. If the front is off , do you move the rear?.

If you want to offer another method, fine do it on you own not as a tag line to the String Thing.

FOG
 

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I get what you're saying. ;D But if the average "Joe" doesn't know that his front end is out of wack it may make things worse. Why put the rear out as well? The tape measure method does work for the rear.
It will also prove if the marks on the swing arm are out.
Sorry, I didn't mean to ruin your sticky... I thought the purpose of forums and threads were for learning and asking questions. Just because one person says it needs to be done a certain way, doesn't mean it's the only way or even the correct way.
 

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That Video. is only Partially complete and good to only show the set up. The scale on the front tire is going to be a pain when you have to adjust the rear. I believe it missis the whole point of using this method to adjust the rear.

In any case this dosn't belong here I wrote the String thing as a set of instructions to help . not as a topic of discussion . Please move this "Comment" to a new thread.

FOG
 

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I did this string thing when I put a new back tire on my (new to me) 96 500. I have the back wheel aligned to the front wheel, but the front wheel seems to be a little left.

Like this if it makes any sense
| <-Back wheel
| <-Front wheel

The bike is on a reconstructed title so maybe the frame is bent? I measure the "chrome" part of the forks and the left side is like a half inch shorter. Will doing the "rocking" fix this? Im a noob at this and still waiting for my dad to look at this, maybe Im just missing something.
 

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You did it wrong. Your supposed to put the back wheel in the center of the front. What the hell did you align it with?

FOG
 

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I ran the strings from the back wheel to the front wheel, then I straightened the handlebars to make the front wheel parallel. The strings are an inch from the front rim on the chain side, and half inch on the other side.

I understand I should tighten the tension adjustment on the brake side, but any more will cause the string to touch the center stand.
 

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Check the vertical alignment of the front. And the center stand don't count. you ride on the wheels. Move it or relocate the strings.

FOG
 

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I'm new to the forums, I have been researching many ways to get my wobble out? I'm not sure what to call it, when my chain was dragging loose, I took it into a dealer (usually they know, but now i know they can be impartial charged me $45 to almost break my chain, it was wayyy too tight, the chain was making screeching sounds at 65) anyway I got home safely and looked in my manual for a chain adjustment. So i get the gear to loosen my chain, 14mm for swingarm butts, 23mm for right side swingarm, and aadjustable open end. I noticed there was a cotterpin on the right side, so I removed it to adjust. Loosen the swingarm nuts and the buttplates, and used the stock marks to adjust the chain. When i tighten the stuff togehter its not fully 'tight' (as in i can turn the buttplate nuts and adjust the chain tension very easily.) I replaced the original cotter pin.

Any ideas why?

I don't want to really be all up and technical of this apparent string-thing that works, but before right when I bought the bike back in July 08, I could let off the throttle and it would 'ghost ride' striaght just fine. But now it wobbles a little bit. Is is possible the 'castle nut' is too loose and is 'wobbling' my rear wheel? Oh the bike is a 08 red Ninja 500R.
 

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You must !!!!! tighten the Axel Nut to 80 Foot pound of torque or more. And since you posted it here in the string thing you must have read it. Why didn't you do it?

FOG
 
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