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Are you saying that your wheels are parallel but that the centers of both wheels are not exactly on the same line? That one wheel is shifted?

The adjusters are a forward/rearward adjustment of the rear wheel for the purposes of alignment and chain tension. They do not shift the whole wheel to either side.
 

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Pogo said:
Are you saying that your wheels are parallel but that the centers of both wheels are not exactly on the same line? That one wheel is shifted?
That what it looks like, yeah...like so (just not as exaggerated) :
()
()

about 10 mm difference in measurement between the two sides (from the side of front wheel to the string). This probably introduces some undesirable handling characteristics, although I can't say I notice anything particularly wrong.

Pogo said:
The adjusters are a forward/rearward adjustment of the rear wheel for the purposes of alignment and chain tension. They do not shift the whole wheel to either side.
That's what I figured.

So what now? ???
 
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I think much more likely is that your measurement is incorrect.

Find a straight line somewhere. Perhaps a painted line in a parking lot, and ride straight onto the edge of the line and get your front wheel directly centered on it. See if the rear wheel is also centered. 1cm of difference should be readily noticeable.

The string thing is accurate, but it's very prone to human error, particularly since on most tires the string runs inside of the centerstand below the center bar of the stand.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Once again I'm Struck with the naivete' of this list, When I said in my String thing piece to adjust the rear wheel. I meant .Use the chain adjusters to aim the wheel directly at the front. Maintain chain slack correctly.

There do I have to tell what end of the wrench to hold too.?

FOG
 

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back in the old days we would push the bike thru a puddle of water. if the back tire tracked to where the front tire left water on the ground...and the chain wasnt binding...we called it a day and went for a ride. The string thing is much more precise ...and works if you really read the directions.
 

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Right on FOG.

In the last few weeks reading this forum you have taught me the ins and outs of motorcycle maintenance and modification.

Thanks for another extremely useful and informative piece!
 

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For those who dont know the chain adjusters are the two backplates facing the back of the bike on the swing arm. Theres two nuts on each side. One 12mm nut to lock it in place and a 14mm nut to adjust.

You have to loosen the rear wheel axle (just enough that you can turn the 17mm nut by hand) and this requires you to remove the metal crimp in between the axle and the nut using pliers or a hammer if your gentle enough.

From my experience, I used the left one to adjust the chain slack appropriately and then turned the right to move it in and out. You MAY need to hold the wheel in place with your hand applying some pressure when retightening the axle nut because even when I locked the nuts on the backplates, the rear wheel shifted on me a bit when retightening. Just make sure its center and held well in place. Re lock all the back plates put the metal crimp back on hooray your done. Dont forget to torque the axle nut appropriately. ( 80lbs-tq )
 

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the string method didn't work for me because the string runs directly through the center stand. i use 130/70 standard size rear tires. i'm surprised that it works for you guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
So put the c stand up and use a set of swing arm stands/blocks/jackstands/etc

FOG
 

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How do I get the bike to stand up with blocks? I don't have jack stands or swing arm stands so I'll have to make do somehow.
 

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I like the system these guys use as well, just to offer an alternative method. The idea of using an allen wrench in the back sprocket to tighten the tensioners is genius! (IMHO) Feel free to weigh in and bash this, but the logic of swingarm pivot measurements seems sound to me...

http://canyonchasers.net/video/chain.php

cheers and string-free alternatives!

-Hobbes
 

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String Thing (Vid!)

I watched this guy's steering bearing vid, and noticed this one for the string thing.

***Stupid Drivel Link Deleted***

EDIT: Well, the wrong stinkin' link pasted in. I dug it back up. Sorry for the delay!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBxK-OQ--fg
 

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Discussion Starter #96
What has that Vid got to do with the "String thing" Topic?
Why are you people adding drivel to what is supposed to be an instructional thread . If you have alternate methods, by all means post them , elsewhere.

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #97
A couple of posts above. Pogo asked if the wheels were on a different track.
I covered this in my "String thing" post , The section on vertical alignment is were you look. The frame is designed to place both wheels on the same line (all MCs are thus) and if your is not ,your have either a bent frame of a out of vertical alignment. Think , If you front wheel is not in the same vertical plane as the rear, it must also be on a different track.
All else being straight adjusting the vertical plane of the front as described in the "String Thing" will put the wheel on the same track.

FOG
 

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That video had some good pointers, but I can't imagine its a better method than the string thing. Sure it aligns the wheel to the bike. But as fog states, it's best to align the wheels together. I have yet to have time to do it myself but I did something similar to the video and I have slight shakes sometimes when letting off the throttle and sometimes a feeling of sliding tires. Which should be fixed with a proper string alignment right?


Sent from Motorcycle.com App[/color]
 

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would be awesome if you mind taking some pictures of this process one time you do it! Maybe also take some examples as well as a total out of wack alignment,

like |

and- |

(side track wheels)

and

\

/

(toe in front and toe out rear)

I dont think you can adjust wheel camber so at least that is not something we have to worry about, unless your forks are bent or swingarm is bent
 
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