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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a 2005 ex500 about a week ago and it was only running with the choke on so I figured cleaning the carbs would get it running. It wouldn't start in the cold already I learned the day after buying it. I have now cleaned the carbs and put them back in only tried a cold start this morning but now it's not wanting to start at all. Would the next thing to check be the boots and vacuum lines?
 

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I'm afraid that is like asking how long a piece of string is. there is no guarantee you did the carbs correctly or that there are not any other issues on the bike being new to you. the boots should have/could have been checked after removing the carbs. in any event the first port of call on these bikes is the battery then every other working part upto and including the valve clearances plugs coils leads air fliters and so on. more info required mileage. history of the bike that sort of thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm afraid that is like asking how long a piece of string is. there is no guarantee you did the carbs correctly or that there are not any other issues on the bike being new to you. the boots should have/could have been checked after removing the carbs. in any event the first port of call on these bikes is the battery then every other working part upto and including the valve clearances plugs coils leads air fliters and so on. more info required mileage. history of the bike that sort of thing.
The bike was running before but only with the choke. The previous owner had been deployed and it sat for about three years. I've changed the oil, coolant, spark plugs, and now cleaned the carbs. The bike has 9,900 miles. Battery is newer and I've charged it before trying to start it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well lets get into the carbs [email protected] describe your cleaning methods and specific targeted areas
So I removed the carbs, disassembled them and removed the jets. I cleaned the jets with a guitar string then soaked the carbs, bowls, and jets in a simply green degreaser that said it wouldn't eat at any plastic or rubber. Then cleaned the inside while dunking them in the cleaner. Took the jets out cleaned them again them sprayed compressed air through them and dried the carbs out with the air. Reasselmed and put them back in.
 

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Note you posted it previously ran somewhat on choke, now not so

You include no mention of:
*petcock function
*splitting the "rack"
*choke plunger removal
*attention to float system components
*pilot screw removal, oring renewal
*confirmation of clear individual circuits
*setup including pilot screw settings, float setup
*slide function

These things sitting for 3 years gonna need aggressive, focused tactics above and beyond cleaning the jets
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Note you posted it previously ran somewhat on choke, now not so

You include no mention of:
*petcock function
*splitting the "rack"
*choke plunger removal
*attention to float system components
*pilot screw removal, oring renewal
*confirmation of clear individual circuits
*setup including pilot screw settings, float setup
*slide function

These things sitting for 3 years gonna need aggressive, focused tactics above and beyond cleaning the jets
I did clean choke plunger and float system I replaced the float needle but not the float and made sure to do so correctly. I had not touched the pilot screws because mine still have the plate over them
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Note you posted it previously ran somewhat on choke, now not so

You include no mention of:
*petcock function
*splitting the "rack"
*choke plunger removal
*attention to float system components
*pilot screw removal, oring renewal
*confirmation of clear individual circuits
*setup including pilot screw settings, float setup
*slide function

These things sitting for 3 years gonna need aggressive, focused tactics above and beyond cleaning the jets
Got it to start tonight but it doesn't want to idle
 

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I had not touched the pilot screws because mine still have the plate over them
The pilot screws must be removed in order to fully clear the entire pilot circuit. In leaving them intact....you've not truly "cleaned" your carbs. Also essential to replace the orings with new, this applies to any rubber orings encountered, bowl gaskets too. All these 500's are now ageing, the orings flatten and harden, at some point fail in their sealing capabilities.

After fully clearing the pilot circuits, set the pilot screws to 2 1/2 turns starting position, then synch using manometer, after warm, adjust pilots to find the sweet spot on each side (highest RPM).
If you've done a valve clearance check, spark plugs/caps/wires/air filter/ correct carb/cables install....you should end up with a fine starting, idling runner, provided your other carb internal circuit efforts were completed.
 

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the only thing that was wrong with his bike ,is the one thing he didn't do somehow the covers on the pilot screws protect them from getting plugged

FOG
 

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Those plates come off pretty easy. Just drill a small hole in it and pry it off with something. May even come off while drilling.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I had finally got the bike running what I thought was good. It would idle and drive without the choke on and now I'm having other problems. It sounds exactly like the gas cap vent issue that a lot of people have where I'll be riding then all of a sudden itll start bogging down and just die on me. I have removed both the the orange pieces and I'm still getting this problem. Any ideas on what this could be?
 

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I had finally got the bike running what I thought was good. It would idle and drive without the choke on and now I'm having other problems. It sounds exactly like the gas cap vent issue that a lot of people have where I'll be riding then all of a sudden itll start bogging down and just die on me. I have removed both the the orange pieces and I'm still getting this problem. Any ideas on what this could be?
If you wait a few moments, does the bike run well again? It sounds like fuel delivery may be your problem, but not ruling out electrical (i.e. coils faultering when hot) at this point either.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If you wait a few moments, does the bike run well again? It sounds like fuel delivery may be your problem, but not ruling out electrical (i.e. coils faultering when hot) at this point either.
It's on and off. Sometimes itll start right back up other times itll take like 5-10 minutes. Is there any chance this could be from the battery or stator?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It's on and off. Sometimes itll start right back up other times itll take like 5-10 minutes. Is there any chance this could be from the battery or stator?
If you wait a few moments, does the bike run well again? It sounds like fuel delivery may be your problem, but not ruling out electrical (i.e. coils faultering when hot) at this point either.
Opening the gas cap doesn't help it to start up either
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you wait a few moments, does the bike run well again? It sounds like fuel delivery may be your problem, but not ruling out electrical (i.e. coils faultering when hot) at this point either.
Also I put around 130 miles on it the last two days after finally getting it running before this problem started happening again. Then I tried to ride again later today and it happened much sooner maybe after 3 or 4 miles
 

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I purchased a 2005 ex500 about a week ago and it was only running with the choke on so I figured cleaning the carbs would get it running. It wouldn't start in the cold already I learned the day after buying it. I have now cleaned the carbs and put them back in only tried a cold start this morning but now it's not wanting to start at all. Would the next thing to check be the boots and vacuum lines?

Had an 09 that sat for about 6 years with fuel in the carbs and gas in the tank (tank wasn't full either). Had to soak the carbs and dry them MULTIPLE times and clean them aggressively. Also, had to remove all the old fuel and Kreme coat the inside of the tank because it rusted (found this later....stupid me didn't think of this before hand).

The bike ran great for about a year after finally getting the carbs cleaned, but because of the rust in the tank (at the bottom), it was gumming up the filter on the petcock after about 3 minutes of runtime off choke with engine warm...so about 15 minutes of run time. Bottle fed the petrol line after the petcock to the carbs and the bike ran fine for an hour (bottle feeding sucks and is dangerous but rules out the motor and carbs quick and easy....pulled and checked the petcock after - tested good (remember it is vac operated from the carb so when testing don't pull a huge vac on it or you need to replace it). Turned out to be the rust in the tank causing a minor blockage but just enough to jack everything up. Coated the inside of the tank with Kreme liner (DO NOT REUSE THE FUEL YOU DRAIN!!!) and it has been running like a champ for the past two years.

All that to basically say check your tank - if you see any surface rust try getting it cleaned out (google how to de-rust a metal gas tank), and coat it...tiny amount of rust....2 weeks of getting p!$$ed off....makes you want to quit working on stuff.
 

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I also forgot to mention - any time you pull the carbs to clean or maintenance them you might as well re-sync them. Even if you think you didn't make any changes to the adjustment screws, they probably moved while banging and clanging them around - even if you are super careful
 
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