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Discussion Starter #1
So I had been having a small issue with the stock handlebars, the angle caused my arms to flare a little in order to reduce the angle of the wrist and that caused my elbows to to also flare out, limiting my view in the mirrors and not an all together comfortable ride.

I began researching and looking at options. I learned that woodcraft is just a short ways away in MA (about an hour and a half away). I looked at their site and what they had and dropped them a line and before I knew it I was talking to Eric Wood. After a few emails and a phone call the set that I had seen in the past that fit in the stock location and fit similar to the stock version is no longer being made (cant blame anyone, Im sure there is very little demand for a bike this old). After talking a bit Eric said that he was working on something that may just work... a new design that will be similar but allow more adjustments and customization. less than 48 hours later the box is at my door.
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First of all WOW! AMAZING customer support. Probably the most friendly and helpful company I have ever done business with!
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The quality is top notch and quality through and through. I had about an hour before sunset so I had decided to see how it would all go together. First stem is to remove the old!

Everywhere has said that removing the old handlebar ends is perhaps the hardest part due to the red locktite used at the factory. I knew this going in and took out my MAP gas and my vessel impact screwdriver
Sidenote, this thing has saved me a few times. Firstly it is JIS which is the correct screw head for most Japanese fasteners. Most people force a common phillips and it has trouble getting a good bite. This tool is also made to be hit with a hammer which turns the screw loose as well*
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With some heat and the right tool it wasnt too bad to get out.

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Im sure there are many write ups on how to replace the handlebars so ill skip the whole tear down (unless someone wants to know in which case I can post those pics and descriptions.

Test fitting the new ones, not much lower than stock :
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Tomorrow ill drill the holes in the bars once I determine where I want them and at what angle etc.

Does anyone know if there is a cap made to cover where the stick handelbar holder went? I was going o bring it to a machine shop to get something fabricated but if there was something already out there even better.
 

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small thing but, with the fork tubes that far up into the triple tree you have seriously reduced your ground clearance and will drag everything in the corner lean angles that those bar ends seem to say you want to achieve. On my race bikes I had to run the fork flush and then wished for longer tubes.

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The fork tubes are exactly where they were when I got the bike, I honestly didn't even know you could make much adjustment there without changing some of the geometry of the bike, if I can adjust it easily with no Ill affect then I will.

Not that I'm going to be doing much in the way of serious lean angles, this is my first bike and I have less than 100 miles on it so I'm not ready for any sort of track days or anything.
 

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the last photo shows the tubes almost 1" higher that stock, So serious changes to the geometry have already been wreaked.
Your new to riding so you have to learn. Eric (an old race buddy ) makes nice stuff. and you will be able to adjust as you learn.

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How high should the forks be? I will reset them to stock today while I do the rest of the installation. May as well start learning on stock base as much as I can and then make adjustments as needed from there, fewer variables when I need help.
 

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well the proper bar risers would barley allow the forks to protrude above the tree by abc.10 mm max. or flush is fine.
If you have stock header pipes ,even at that level they are in danger of damage in cornering.

FOG
 

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did you "Rock the forks" read my instructions in the How too section

FOG
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just read it and I will rock the forks while playing rock the casbah this evening, just playing around with the handlebars now to get them where I like them and minimize any contact with the fairing.

Anyone with a stock set up: if you rotate the bars as far as you can, do they touch at all? Current I can get both of the levers to touch the front just below the mirrors if I turn far enough. The clip one touch the fairing but just ride on top of it currently. This is with no weight on the bike either.
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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, all done. all in all not a bad install.

A few notes: I swapped the right and left and it gave me more clearance for turning the handle bars till stop. With the brake master cylinder the way it is it unfortunately hits against the clip on so you need to have the bars a bit wider... luckily I got the XL bar length so it wasnt an issue.

Took it for a quick spin and the riding posture is noticeably more tucked and aggressive. The handling is also much more spirited and (perhaps the wider grips) counter stearing is greatly improved.


Now off to change the faucet in the kitchen.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
In the end a few things I would like to "clean up" The stock master cylinder works great, and I WANT to keep using it, however it dosent fit just right. I was eventually looking to put on either asv or pazzo levers anyway, but then what MC to use? I looked a bit and I dont want to completely swap out the front end. Replacing the MC would also allow me to tighten up the entire set up and and push the bars in tighter. Im very open to suggestions.
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In the end a few things I would like to "clean up" The stock master cylinder works great, and I WANT to keep using it, however it dosent fit just right. I was eventually looking to put on either asv or pazzo levers anyway, but then what MC to use? I looked a bit and I dont want to completely swap out the front end. Replacing the MC would also allow me to tighten up the entire set up and and push the bars in tighter. Im very open to suggestions.
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It looks all good except for the position (height) of the tubes in the triples. They are way too high. If you want that thing to handle, push the tubes up 7/8ths inches and tighten the bolts. Then remove the dogbones from the rear suspension and cut about 3/8ths inches from them and re-weld them. This raises the rear and eliminates any ground clearance issues. FYI, Jeff Wood did 1:17's on my bike set up like this. It works.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I already have aftermarket dog bones on the rear.

I did put the fork tubes almost flush with the triple clamp based on what Fog had said.
 
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