I need help guys. Next week I should change those rubbers from airbox to carbs, and I wanted to know how to remove airbox out (or do I need to remove it)? When I was fixing my old rubbers I tried to get it out but I couldn't find where is bolted on the rear or below to the frame or something. Do you have any picture so you can mark me the bolts or mounting place in the frame?
toniplavna
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I stand corrected then. I know some European models did not, but I suppose some did get them. Regardless, it doesn't really provide an issue when removing the airbox. Just make sure the big hose at the top front of the airbox slides back into place when reinstalling.
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The airbox is, practically speaking, identical between all years. The amount of room to work with is the same between generations as the frame did not change. The GPZ will be slightly different as the European models did not come with the PAIR system to my knowledge. This is a minor difference, don't worry about it. There is also an extra hole in the front of the airbox on 50 state models equipped with California evaporative emissions. Again, this is only a minor difference and won't affect anyone overseas.
Oh yeah, the battery has to come out too when pulling the airbox.
Oh yeah, the battery has to come out too when pulling the airbox.
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@bpe, you are thinking of the carb to cylinder head boots. The airbox to carb boots do not have clamps. The long, skinny springs keep the boots seated on the carbs, while at the airbox end, the boots are U shaped in profile and sit on their on in the front of the airbox. Between the carbs to cylinder head, there is a clamp at both ends.
And, I fully disagree that the airbox is easier to get out after removing the carbs. You lift up the back end of the airbox first, and once that end is up a bit, the whole box comes out. Once out, the carbs are much easier to work with.
I will take photos of both styles of boots to show what I mean and to make sure we're all talking about the same boots.
And, I fully disagree that the airbox is easier to get out after removing the carbs. You lift up the back end of the airbox first, and once that end is up a bit, the whole box comes out. Once out, the carbs are much easier to work with.
I will take photos of both styles of boots to show what I mean and to make sure we're all talking about the same boots.
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Removing the airbox is not difficult, I'd recommend pulling it. This will give you the chance to clean it out, the inside can get a bit dirty over time.
To remove it, you must first remove the seat, side fairings and fuel tank, the last of which can be removed with the upper fairing still in place, but you must remove the screw on either side of the fairing which attaches it to the tank. Once those are out, the fairing is flexible enough to allow removal of the tank.
Next, there is a bracket above the airbox, held in place by 4 m6 bolts with 10mm heads and is what the back end of the fuel tank bolts to, which must be removed.
Next, remove the side covers from the airbox. It will be 4 phillips head screws per side.
Now the airbox can be lifted out vertically. Be aware of the rubber intake hose on the right side (it will be visible once the side cover is off), it likes to get in the way, you may want to pop it out to ease removal.
A note on reinstalling the airbox. The rubber boots which you are replacing have springs which help hold them onto the carburetors. Roll these springs back off the groove they sit in back to the narrowest point on the boots in the middle. This makes it much easier to get them to slip onto the carburetors. Once everything is set in place, roll the springs back into their groves on the boot around the carbs. If you've got long fingers like me, this can be done without tools. If not, a flathead screwdriver will be helpful.
To remove it, you must first remove the seat, side fairings and fuel tank, the last of which can be removed with the upper fairing still in place, but you must remove the screw on either side of the fairing which attaches it to the tank. Once those are out, the fairing is flexible enough to allow removal of the tank.
Next, there is a bracket above the airbox, held in place by 4 m6 bolts with 10mm heads and is what the back end of the fuel tank bolts to, which must be removed.
Next, remove the side covers from the airbox. It will be 4 phillips head screws per side.
Now the airbox can be lifted out vertically. Be aware of the rubber intake hose on the right side (it will be visible once the side cover is off), it likes to get in the way, you may want to pop it out to ease removal.
A note on reinstalling the airbox. The rubber boots which you are replacing have springs which help hold them onto the carburetors. Roll these springs back off the groove they sit in back to the narrowest point on the boots in the middle. This makes it much easier to get them to slip onto the carburetors. Once everything is set in place, roll the springs back into their groves on the boot around the carbs. If you've got long fingers like me, this can be done without tools. If not, a flathead screwdriver will be helpful.
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