Keeping the oil changed, the single most important procedure to get the longest, most reliable service life out of your engine.
Consider enlisting the help of a buddy, neighbor or relative with some mechanical experience to assist the first time around. Reading this tutorial while doing, following step by step would be advisable.
Tools needed:
10mm socket or box end wrench
17mm socket or box end wrench
Ratchets to fit the sockets (if using sockets)
Medium size Phillips screwdriver
Oil filter wrench
Oil drain pan
Torque wrench (optional)
nitrile work gloves (optional)
safety glasses (optional)
shop rags, towels for clean up
Parts needed:
4 litres of oil (or 4 quarts) you'll have some leftover, don't just dump it all in! (It's always good to have some extra on hand)
Oil filter (Kawasaki part # 16097-0008 or equivalent)
Oil type:
SH or SJ with JASO MA
I won't get in to any specific brand recommendations here, that information is easily found elsewhere, though a motorcycle specific oil is advisable.
Oil viscosity:
Standard recommendation is 10w40.
If your riding in temperatures above 100f you need 20w50.
Oil change frequency:
Kawasaki recommends every 7,500 miles or every year, which ever comes first.
I dismiss this interval. Oil is the life blood of the engine. Every 2000 miles is a more acceptable interval.
If your just doing cross country riding, you wont have to change it that often, those are "easy miles".
Even doing cross country miles about every 3000 miles is more acceptable.
The procedure:
Best time to change the oil is after a ride, with the bike all warmed up. Careful...the exhaust and engine will be HOT.
Set the bike on the center stand. SAFETY FIRST...stand on flat, solid, stable ground (not outdoors in the dirt!)
Remove the lower cowling.
![Image]()
There are 2 Phillips head screws on the front, underneath the radiator. (In my case I have had the originals replaced with the same hex bolts that are used on the rear).
![Image]()
And two 10mm bolts on the underneath side at the rear of the cowling.
Loosen all 4 fasteners and take out the bottom 2 first, then support the cowling with one hand (you could also place blocks of wood or a box underneath to help for support) while removing the other 2. Pull the cowling forward and out.
![Image]()
Remove the oil filler plug.
![Image]()
The oil drain plug is indicated by the arrow. A 17mm bolt, place a suitable drain pan under the bike and remove the drain plug. Beware the oil will be HOT. I already have a filter wrench and ratchet on the oil filter. Remove the filter.
![Image]()
Take your new filter and pour motor oil into the center hole, fill it up to the top. Let the oil settle a few seconds and fill it up again. This is to get the oil flowing faster upon starting up the bike. That oil will settle down also, but that is enough, getting the filter completely full could get messy when installing it. Dip your finger in some motor oil, and coat the O-ring on the filter with the oil. This is to ensure a good seal. Put a drop or 2 of motor oil on the drain plug washer, the side that contacts the oil pan, and reinstall the drain plug. The torque value on the drain plug is 22ft.lbs. If you are not using a torque wrench, just tighten it a small amount tighter than "just snug". Install the new oil filter. Tighten it about as tight as possible, using your hands only. Do not use a filter wrench to install the filter. Go ahead and refill the oil through the filler hole with 3 litres of oil (including the oil that was used to prime the filter with). If your oil is in quart containers you will need 3 quarts, plus part of a 4th one. Monitor the window as you are filling, try not to overfill the window. Only use a couple of ounces out of the 4th one, until you get a chance to check the level both now and later.
![Image]()
Coat the O-ring on the filler cap with motor oil. Replace the cap, and just tighten it finger tight. Wipe all the oil off that got on the engine while draining. Crank up the engine to let it idle for a few minutes. Your oil warning light will stay on for a few seconds and will go out, but that is OK. After it has idled for a few minutes check for leaks, all should be good. Turn off the engine.
![Image]()
After the oil settles for a few minutes the oil level should be between the 2 marks on either side of the oil level sight glass. The oil level in the picture is with the bike completely cold, after fully warmed up the level will rise to the nearer the top mark. So if you were using quart containers just make sure your level is around 1/2 way up the glass to about where it is in the picture. Recheck the level later after the bike is really warmed up (after a ride). Reinstall the lower cowling. The reverse of removing it. Get all 4 fasteners started, beginning with the upper front ones. Then support the cowling with one hand while installing the two back fasteners under the bike. Then tighten them all up, just slightly snug. You are tightening on plastic so be cautious.
That's it, you should be good to go. Clean up any spills, and wet, oily engine areas. Return your used engine oil to an appropriate Recycling Center (where you bought the oil will likely accept it for recycling). Using the original containers should be acceptable.
Remember an engine with clean oil, is a happy engine. :wink2:
Consider enlisting the help of a buddy, neighbor or relative with some mechanical experience to assist the first time around. Reading this tutorial while doing, following step by step would be advisable.
Tools needed:
10mm socket or box end wrench
17mm socket or box end wrench
Ratchets to fit the sockets (if using sockets)
Medium size Phillips screwdriver
Oil filter wrench
Oil drain pan
Torque wrench (optional)
nitrile work gloves (optional)
safety glasses (optional)
shop rags, towels for clean up
Parts needed:
4 litres of oil (or 4 quarts) you'll have some leftover, don't just dump it all in! (It's always good to have some extra on hand)
Oil filter (Kawasaki part # 16097-0008 or equivalent)
Oil type:
SH or SJ with JASO MA
I won't get in to any specific brand recommendations here, that information is easily found elsewhere, though a motorcycle specific oil is advisable.
Oil viscosity:
Standard recommendation is 10w40.
If your riding in temperatures above 100f you need 20w50.
Oil change frequency:
Kawasaki recommends every 7,500 miles or every year, which ever comes first.
I dismiss this interval. Oil is the life blood of the engine. Every 2000 miles is a more acceptable interval.
If your just doing cross country riding, you wont have to change it that often, those are "easy miles".
Even doing cross country miles about every 3000 miles is more acceptable.
The procedure:
Best time to change the oil is after a ride, with the bike all warmed up. Careful...the exhaust and engine will be HOT.
Set the bike on the center stand. SAFETY FIRST...stand on flat, solid, stable ground (not outdoors in the dirt!)
Remove the lower cowling.
There are 2 Phillips head screws on the front, underneath the radiator. (In my case I have had the originals replaced with the same hex bolts that are used on the rear).
And two 10mm bolts on the underneath side at the rear of the cowling.
Loosen all 4 fasteners and take out the bottom 2 first, then support the cowling with one hand (you could also place blocks of wood or a box underneath to help for support) while removing the other 2. Pull the cowling forward and out.
Remove the oil filler plug.
The oil drain plug is indicated by the arrow. A 17mm bolt, place a suitable drain pan under the bike and remove the drain plug. Beware the oil will be HOT. I already have a filter wrench and ratchet on the oil filter. Remove the filter.
Take your new filter and pour motor oil into the center hole, fill it up to the top. Let the oil settle a few seconds and fill it up again. This is to get the oil flowing faster upon starting up the bike. That oil will settle down also, but that is enough, getting the filter completely full could get messy when installing it. Dip your finger in some motor oil, and coat the O-ring on the filter with the oil. This is to ensure a good seal. Put a drop or 2 of motor oil on the drain plug washer, the side that contacts the oil pan, and reinstall the drain plug. The torque value on the drain plug is 22ft.lbs. If you are not using a torque wrench, just tighten it a small amount tighter than "just snug". Install the new oil filter. Tighten it about as tight as possible, using your hands only. Do not use a filter wrench to install the filter. Go ahead and refill the oil through the filler hole with 3 litres of oil (including the oil that was used to prime the filter with). If your oil is in quart containers you will need 3 quarts, plus part of a 4th one. Monitor the window as you are filling, try not to overfill the window. Only use a couple of ounces out of the 4th one, until you get a chance to check the level both now and later.
Coat the O-ring on the filler cap with motor oil. Replace the cap, and just tighten it finger tight. Wipe all the oil off that got on the engine while draining. Crank up the engine to let it idle for a few minutes. Your oil warning light will stay on for a few seconds and will go out, but that is OK. After it has idled for a few minutes check for leaks, all should be good. Turn off the engine.
After the oil settles for a few minutes the oil level should be between the 2 marks on either side of the oil level sight glass. The oil level in the picture is with the bike completely cold, after fully warmed up the level will rise to the nearer the top mark. So if you were using quart containers just make sure your level is around 1/2 way up the glass to about where it is in the picture. Recheck the level later after the bike is really warmed up (after a ride). Reinstall the lower cowling. The reverse of removing it. Get all 4 fasteners started, beginning with the upper front ones. Then support the cowling with one hand while installing the two back fasteners under the bike. Then tighten them all up, just slightly snug. You are tightening on plastic so be cautious.
That's it, you should be good to go. Clean up any spills, and wet, oily engine areas. Return your used engine oil to an appropriate Recycling Center (where you bought the oil will likely accept it for recycling). Using the original containers should be acceptable.
Remember an engine with clean oil, is a happy engine. :wink2:
