[bpe]

There are two small black rubber washers in the oil pan- I'm not sure which holes those should go over.

the manual is calling for a few O-rings that should probably be replaced while the pan is off. I think 2 of them are part #92055 with an outside diameter of 18mm, and 1 part #92055A with an outside diameter of 13mm.

These may be them.

 

[Jai]

Ah well, guess I should've asked around a bit more. Got mine from eBay for $20, so not too bad.

Thanks for the answers.

- I was actually planning to take FOG's advice and dispense with the oil pan gasket entirely, making a new one out of RTV (Permatex Ultra black gasket maker)

- Any thoughts on those two black washers that were in the oil pan? I've taken a pic of where I think they ought to go.

Great to know about the CCT.

Thanks

 

[kevinf]

I've had the pan off a couple of EXs before but I can't say for sure those are the correct locations. The O rings should line up with oil lines that run up into the casing above - you'll need to do that visually.

BTW - A good source of information for this source of assembly information are the OEM parts diagrams you use when ordering parts on-line. The exploded views really help when you are putting things back together.

 

[Saabnut]

I can pull the pan on one of my parts motors and double check. It's been about a year since I had one apart and I can't recall exactly where they went.

As for the oil pan gasket, keep this in mind. The gasket does have thickness, which was taken into account when the engine was designed when setting distances for things in the block that drop down and contact the pan. Removing the gasket may cause clearance issues.
I once did away with the water pumper cover gasket and just used RTV. Turns out, without the added thickness of the stock gasket, the impeller was rubbing against the inside of the cover in one spot, slowly shaving down the cover and filling my coolant with metal shavings.

The decision is up to you, but I highly recommend against ditching any gasket for just RTV.

 

[bpe]

I think you should replace those O-rings also. When new they have a flat side to them, that is supposed to be installed flat side up. Used O-rings generally go flat on both sides. That is an oil passage way that they go on. Important to keep a full oil flow going. The O-rings are cheap. There are 3 of them, one must still be stuck on the under side of the bike.

 

[Jai]

Will do.
Traveling for a couple of weeks - will post pics/results after I get back and finish up.

Thanks for your help!

 

[Apriliarider]

Where in the Bay Area?

Jai,
Where in the Bay Area are you? I'm also in the North Bay but more like North East Bay.

There are quite a few Bay Area members here. Some of us get together and ride once in a while.

Let us know what city you're located in....that way, if one of us is close by, we could actually drop in and lend a hand if needed............sean

 

[Jai]

I'm down in Fremont - would love to ride with you guys sometime

 

[Apriliarider]

I'm down in Fremont - would love to ride with you guys sometime

Gotcha....East Bay....pretty good hike out to Marin Co. from there...that's where we usually meet up. We'll let you know when we get together again once the weather clears....I'm actually in Fairfield.....sean

 

[Jai]

That's fine, always happy to have an excuse to go up there
Thanks, looking forward to it!

 

[Jai]

]Back and looking to wrap this up. I'm trying to remove the oil screen cover in order to clean the screen, but I'm not able to bend those tabs back as @Saabnut suggested. I cleaned out the oil screen as best as I could without removing the cover, but I can still clearly see debris stuck in there.

Any thoughts on how I can do this?

 

[Saabnut]

Here is how I have successfully pulled the tabs back on the oil pickup screen cover.

 

[Jai]

This looks much simpler to do once it's off the bike haha. Should I remove the entire screen assembly as you seem to have done? Thanks for answering the noob questions

 

[Saabnut]

This looks much simpler to do once it's off the bike haha. Should I remove the entire screen assembly as you seem to have done? Thanks for answering the noob questions

Yep. It's only held in by two 8mm bolts. Easy peasy.

 

[Jai]

Finally got it done...between traveling and starting a new job, barely had a chance to look at the bike.

- I took the oil screen assembly off the bike, but still had a hard time removing the tabs, as they started cracking when flexing open. Considering that a brand new one is under 8 bucks with free shipping...I just ordered one and swapped it in.
- Put the oil pan back on. Did add some RTV, hoping I got that right as I futzed around to get it to line up properly. Guess we'll see pretty soon.
- Took a lot more care when tightening the oil pan bolts. Basically got them as tight as I could using a screwdriver with a socket attachment, and then gave it a little more using the socket wrench (less than a quarter turn).
- Swapped out the gen 1 CCT for a gen 2, following instructions on wiki.
- Swapped out exhaust gaskets for new ones.

Filled oil, took it for a 15 min spin (enough to get it up to temperature):
- I now get a clicking noise from the engine, which I'm fairly sure wasn't there before. I would assume valves, but I couldn't hear it before sitting the bike for this repair. I'm guessing it's the CCT? Will probably go ask a mechanic if this is normal.
- My oil screen seems to have...fogged up? I can't read it, at any rate. Went through this forum, and seems like it's a thing that happens if you let the bike sit for a while. The solution apparently is to ride, which I shall do .
- Since I can't track oil level, I left a rag under the bike over night, and not a spot of oil to be seen on it in the morning. But it will take a few longer rides before I'm quite sure that the oil pan isn't leaking, and that the original leak that opened this whole can of worms is dealt with too.

Thanks as ever for all the help and advice, especially to @Saabnut, @bpe and @kevinf !

 

[Saabnut]

The oil sight glass will fog up if it doesn't get fully warmed up. 15 minutes of running in cool winter weather is certainly grounds for a not fully warmed up engine. Take it out for a much longer ride, at least a half an hour. That should clear out the moisture.

Valves on the EX will always tick. If they are in proper spec, it will tick lightly at idle, often described as sounding like a sewing machine.

 

[Jai]

sewing machine sounds about right. Commuted to work on it today (just shy of 30 mins), and it's started clearing up some. Should get better over the course of this week. I'd forgotten just how amazing it is to be on 2 wheels!